








































































































. 










EDWIN J. STANLEY. 




RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND; 

\ 

OR, A TRIP THROUGH 

The Great Yellowstone National Park. 


WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE 

Geysers, Mammoth Hot Springs, Boiling Caldrons, Lakes, Cat¬ 
aracts, Canons, and Other Curiosities of this 
Remarkable Region ; 

CONTAINING 

SKETCHES OF THE CROW INDIANS, THE GREAT YELLOWSTONE VALLEY, 
THRILLING ADVENTURES, INCIDENTS, AND ANECDOTES 
OF LIFE IN THE MOUNTAINS; 

WITH AN 

ACCOUNT OF THE CAPTURE AND SUFFERINGS OF A PARTY OF 
TOURISTS BY THE NEZ-PERCE INDIANS, UN¬ 
DER CHIEF JOSEPH, IN 1877. 

ALSO, 

DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS 

CONCERNING ROUTES, DISTANCES, OUTFITS, EXPENSES, AND OTHER USEFUL 

INFORMATION ABOUT THE PARK. 


BY 

EDWIN J. ST ANLE 




Y . 


MAP AND TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS. FIFTH EDITION. 


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> > > 

* > * 

Nashville, Tenn.: 

Publishing House of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. 

Barbee & Smith, Agents. 

1898 . 




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COPYRIGHT BY 

E. J. STANLEY, 

187 8 . 

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PREFACE. 


On my return from a trip to tlie Yellowstone and through 
the National Park, I concluded to write up a few brief sketches 
of the more interesting features of that remarkable region, and 

O O j 

the thrilling events of the journey, for the benefit of friends 

% 

in the States. In spite of all efforts to condense, the “ brief 
sketches” grew into a series of long letters, some of which 
appeared in a leading newspaper of the West. The general 
favor with which the letters were received, prompted a recpiest 
for their publication in book-form. With some hesitancy the 
work of revdsion was commenced, and this volume is the result. 
Ifr makes no claim to special literary merit, but is sent out with 
the firm belief that it will fill a place hitherto unoccupied, and 
with the hope that it will afford instruction and entertainment 
to the lovers of Nature everywhere, especially the youth of 
the land. 

The author is pleased to acknowledge his indebtedness to 
the published reports of Dr. F. Y. Hayden, United States 



IV 


PREFACE. 


Geologist, for valuable data in the make-up of the work; also 
to Hon. N. P. Langford for some extracts from his glowing 
descriptions which appeared in Scribner's Monthly , and to 
other friends for substantial favors and encouragement in the 
enterprise. 

E. J. S. 

Whitehall, Montana Territory, July 10 , 1877 . 


\ 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER I. 

First Day. — Bozeman. — Gallatin. — Yellowstone. — Indians. — Camp on Shields 
River. page 1 

CHAPTER II. 

The Ranch.—Hot Springs.—Trout-Fishing.—Bozeman’s Fate.—Thrilling Escape.— 
Yellowstone Valley.—Future Population ..14 

CHAPTER III. 

The Crow Agency.—The Council.—The Treaty.—Novel Scenes.—Indian Character. 
—Names, Sagacity, and Eloquence.—Bluckfoot . .... 22 

CHAPTER IV. 

Indian Habits, Customs, and Beliefs.—Rescue of Two Captive Women.—Peace 
Policy.—Matrimony lively.—The Arrow vs. the Idea.—Missionaries.—Passing 
away ............. 34 


CHAPTER V. 

Up the Yellowstone alone.—Meeting Indians.—Immigrant Gulch.—Wild Mountains. 
—Frontier Christians.—The Irrepressible Itinerant Preacher.—Cinnabar Moun¬ 
tain.—Devil’s Slide.43 


CHAPTER VI. 

A Party of Tourists.—Mountain Transportation.—“Roughing it.”—Personal Nar¬ 
rative.—Mammoth Hot Springs. — The Natural Wonder and Beauty of the 
V est . . . . • . . . • • • • . 52 

CHAPTER VII. 


The National Park.—Tower Falls.—Old Castles.—Bold Adventure.—Devil’s Hoof.— 
Rare Jewels.—Petrifaction.62 







VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER VIII. 

Mount Washburn.—Sublime Scenery.—Grand Canon.—Upper Falls.—Perilous Posi¬ 
tion.—Great Falls. page 68 


CHAPTER IX. 

Dr. Hayden’s Theory of the Falls and Canon.—Lost again.—Camp on the Yellow¬ 
stone.—Sulphur Mountain.—Mud-Volcano.—Giant’s Caldron.—Muddy Geyser. 
—Diabolical Appearance of Everything ....... 79 

CHAPTER X. 

Alum Creek.—Interesting Group of Hot Springs.—The “ Flutter-Wheel.”—Our 
Guide.—Mary’s Lake.—Lower Geyser Basin.—Thud-Geyser.—The Fountain.— 
“ Young Hopeful.”—Journey up the River.—Vexations of the Way.—Tumble 

in the Mud.—Captain C-’s Misfortune.—Boiling Lakes.—Arrival at Upper 

Basin.—Wonderful Change ......... 89 

CHAPTER XI. 

Upper Geyser Basin.—Meeting with Friends.—Our Camp “Doing” the Geysers.— 
“Old Faithful.”—The Sentinel.—First Eruption witnessed.—Description.—The 
Crater.—Ornamentation of the Mound.—Beehive.—Giantess.—Fearful-looking 
Cavity.—Langford’s Description.—Refusal to accommodate Less Distinguished 
Personages.—Castle Geyser.—Beautiful Mound-Spring . . . .97 

CHAPTER XII. 

Curiosity.—New Mode of Washing.—Cooking in a Geyser.—Disappointed Expecta¬ 
tions —Dish-Washing.—Bridget takes Revenge.—“ Taken in.”—Grand Gey¬ 
ser.—Turban.—The Saw-Mill, alias “Rustler.”—Old Chimneys.—Extinct Gey¬ 
sers.—Amusing Incident.—“ Attack in the Rear.”—“ Change of Base.”— 
River-side.—Comet.—Fantail Geyser.—The Grotto.—Quaint Formation.—The 
Giant Geyser, the Grandest in the World.—Wonderful Eruption.—Two Hun¬ 
dred and Fifty Feet in the Air.—Intense Excitement .... 107 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Sunrise Eruptions.—Moonlight.—Firelight.—Sleeping among the Geysers.—A Cali¬ 
fornian.—The Name Geyser.—Geysers of Iceland.—Queries answered.—Break¬ 
ing through.—Theory of Geyser-Eruption.—In Camp . . . .118 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Homeward bound.—Our Caravan.—Novel Way of Travelmg.—Variety the Spice of 
Life.—Cayuses.—“Bucking” Propensities.—Noble Animals.—Camp-Life: its 
Pleasures.—A Pleasant Party.—Dream fulfilled.—Narrow Escape of “ the 
Judge”.124 





CONTENTS. 


Vll 


CHAPTER XV. 

Trip to the Yellowstone Lake.—Description of the Lake.—Dimensions.—Depth.— 
Huge Bear-Tracks.—A Cold Bath.—Swans and other Water-fowls.—Swarms of 
Trout.—Intestinal Affection.—Not hungry for Fish.—Numerous Islands.—Mr. 
Stevenson’s Visit.—Wild Beasts.—Once trod by the Red-Man.—Tradition.—Hot 
Spring in the Lake.—Cooking Fish.—Mountaineer’s Idea of the Lake.—Con¬ 
jecture.—Mr. Everts’s Adventure.—Is lost, and wanders for Thirty-seven Days.— 
Lives on Thistle-Roots.—Attacked bv a Mountain-Lion.—Thrilling Account.— 
Miraculous Deliverance.—Splendid Place in which to spend the Summer.— 
Mountains.—Inspiring Scenes. page 133 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Lake-Shore.—Hunting.—The Bear.—The Moose.—Mountain-Grouse.—“ Fool-Hens.” 
—Sage-Chickens.—Panther or Mountain-Lion.—Lassoing a Bear.—Beaver.— 
Their Homes. — Industry. — Desolation. — Charming Solitude. — Homeward 
bound.—Camping in the Rain.—Return to Mammoth Springs.—The Parting.— 
On to Bottler’s Ranch.—Preaching on Sunday.—A Refreshing Time.—Indian 
” Scare.”—A Stampede.—Running for Life.—Arrival at Bozeman.—Cordial 
Reunions.—Ample Compensation .142 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Hitherto Obscurity of the Geyser Region.—The Cause.—Legends.—Magic Cities.— 
Mysterious Inhabitants.—Jim Bridger.—Other Mountaineers visit this Region. 
—First Expedition.—Second.—Dr. Hayden’s Expedition.—The National Park. 
—Its Variety of Wonders.—The Grandest in the World. —Grand Expo¬ 
sition . . . . . . . • • • • • .151 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

Thrilling Adventures of Excursionists in the National Park.— Nez-Perce 
Indians under Joseph.—Capture of Radersburg Party.—Bloody V oi k.—Mrs. 
Cowan, her Sister, and Brother, in Captivity.—Release of Captives.—Cowan's 
Miraculous Escape.—Radersburg Party attacked.—Kenck killed.—Escape ot 
the Others.—Hardships endured.—Deitrich’s Death.—Shiveley’s Account ot his 
Captivity. 




LIST OF ILLUSTRATION'S. 


PAGE 

7 Map of Yellowstone Park. Face Title-page. 

v The Yellowstone. Face 19 

^ White Mountain, Mammoth Springs. 52 

Tower Falls. 64 

V Cliffs of the Yellowstone. 68 

V Upper Falls, Yellowstone. 72 

Lower Falls, Yellowstone. 73 

Great Canon of the Yellowstone. 79 

The “Giantess”. 102 

Mud-Springs. 105 

In the Geyser Basin..,. Ill 

•The “Giant” Geyser. 113 

/Yellowstone Lake. 133 

















First Day.—Bozeman.—Gallatin.—Yellowstone.—Indians.—Camp on Shields River. 


“ Nature never repeats lierself, you know.” 

“ Do you mean that nowhere in the wide world can he found 
two things just alike \ ” 

“Exactly. Nature defies all theories, and theories balk and 
blunder in the presence of the endless forms and varieties of life 
in which she scorns duplicates.” 

a Surely, doctor, you do not intend to bewilder me with your 
philosophy upon the threshold of our rambles, and before we 
have completed our outfit ? ” 

“ No, no, my young friend, but I desire to prepare you for 
a proper appreciation of the unequaled wonders of the region 
through which you are to ramble, and which has not inaptly 
been termed £ Wonderland.’ Those who have visited Colorado, 
California, Utah, and the famed resorts in the East and in 
Europe, can form but little conception of the wonders that 
abound throughout these Western wilds. In no country on the 
globe, within the same area, has Nature crowded so much of 
grandeur and majesty, with so much of novelty and variety. 
Unlike anv other scenery of the world, and unrivaled in wild 
and weird wonders, the Upper Yellowstone, the geysers, the 
mountains, lakes, and valleys, of this country will always draw 
the lovers of the marvelous in Nature—” 


8 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


“ But stop, doctor; here are Pat and the boys all ready for 
the start, and I fear your enthusiasm will exhaust itself before 
we reach this wonderland.” By this time Dr. Id-'s two lit¬ 

tle sons and his man Pat reined up in our presence with a two- 
horse wagon and a saddled horse behind, ready to convey us 
down the Yellowstone, forty-five miles, to the doctors ranch. 

We had spent several days in Bozeman, a prosperous and 
pretty little town of one thousand inhabitants, named in honor 
of a young man from the South whose name was Bozeman. 
He was a fearless adventurer, and led the first expedition of 
gold-hunters to the Gallatin Valley, by the Powder River, Big 
Horn, and Yellowstone route, which afterward bore the name 
of the ‘‘Bozeman Road.” The town is located on a beautiful 
plateau, between the East and West Forks of the Gallatin 
River, and not far from a lofty range of snow-crowned mount¬ 
ains lying to the southward. Bozeman has grown to be the 
business metropolis of Eastern Montana, supplying the Yel¬ 
lowstone and Gallatin Valleys, and the military fort three 
miles away on the East Fork of the Gallatin. 

Tuesday morning, August 11, 1873, we left Bozeman and 
crossed the foot-hills to Fort Ellis. This is one of the princi¬ 
pal military posts of the Western frontier. It commands the 
whole country embraced in the Upper Yellowstone Valley, and 
the three forks of the Missouri, including some of the finest and 
most productive country in the Territory. There were three 
or four hundred soldiers at the fort when we passed. It was 
just haying-time, and as I saw the loaded wagons rolling into 
the stack-yard, and several wrecks by the road-side, how vividly 
1 was reminded of the mishaps, upsettings, and adventures of 
my youthful days when I hauled hay to Fort Leavenworth ! 

Dr. II- reminded me that expeditions against the In¬ 

dians and for exploration purposes were outfitted here, and that 




BOZEMAN PASS. 


9 


troops were often sent to escort expeditions up the Yellow¬ 
stone and into the u regions beyond.” 

“ Faith, and hadn’t ye betther be afther lievin’ an ethscort 
for the likes o’ us?” queried Pat, as he contemplated the possi¬ 
bility of losing his sandy scalp somewhere in that wilderness, 
which in his imagination was always peopled with savage red¬ 
skins. 

“ Don't you think, Pat, we are sufficiently protected by our 
Enfield rifles ? ” asked the doctor, rather carelessly. 

“ Sure, thin, I am ; the rafle must indade have a mon at the 
totlier eend, and thin, sometimes, oftin the scalp goes off before 
the gun.” 

“ But, Pat, the red-skin would not want a Paddy’s scalp to 
ornament his belt.'’ 

u And by the blissid Yargin it’s a bit betther than yer own, 
doctlier, with yer bawld head.” 

By this time we had passed the busy, bustling fort with 
its stacks of steel and hay, the boys had settled back into 
their seats, and we had struck the Bozeman Pass. High 
mountains on either side shut out from view the fort, the 
valley, and the extended landscape, and we were confined to 
a somewhat narrow defile, with a clear, cool trout-stream 
singing its rippling way beside and often across our road, 
fed by the perpetual snow that crowned the mountain thou¬ 
sands of feet above us. How and then we emerged from the 
deep gorge, and reached a higher knoll, from which the pros¬ 
pect enlarged to loveliness and sometimes grew into grand¬ 
eur. Upon turning our eyes, the famed Gallatin Valley 
burst upon our vision, perhaps the richest and most beautiful 
in the Territory. It varies from ten to twenty-five miles in 
width, and is nearly forty miles in length, extending from 
southeast to northwest. It is noted for the productiveness of 


10 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


its soil and the beauty of its scenery. The vast area of plain, 
including the gentle, swelling foot-hills, was decked with herds 
of cattle, farm-houses, ranch-cottages, and vast fields waving 
with golden grain ripe unto the harvest. Enterprise and thrift 
had made this wilderness to bloom and the desert to rejoice 
and blossom as the rose. Advancing civilization lias already 
planted here and there the nuclei of “ future great ” cities, and 
relieves the dull and monotonous outline of swelling toot-hills, 
making bright contrasts in the distant landscape. The valley 
is inclosed by lofty and rugged mountain-ranges, rising on the 
east and south like huge walls of defense. The Madison, Jef¬ 
ferson, Bowlder, and Crow Creek Ranges, not only lift their 
snow-capped peaks high into the western sky, but the two 
former give a Western immortality to the names of two of the 
honored Presidents of the land of the early free. The moun¬ 
tain scenery from this valley surpasses anything we have yet 
seen—the ranges rising peak above peak as they recede in 
the distance, and standing azure-lined and snow-crowned in their 
grandeur, some of them a hundred miles away. Bozeman and 
his comrades must have been filled with enthusiasm when, so 
near the close of a long and perilous journey, through the wil¬ 
derness inhabited by hostile savages, this lovely valley, spread 
out in all its natural beauty, burst upon their vision. It was 
then but a wilderness, and they deserve immortality for open¬ 
ing it to productive civilization. 

The expedition sent across the continent by Mr. Astor, in 
1811, under Captain Wilson P. Hunt, did not discover this 
valley, nor that of Captain Bonneville in 1833. Captain Rey¬ 
nolds, who commanded the expedition sent out by the Govern¬ 
ment in I860, to explore the Yellowstone, crossed this valley 
from the head of Wind River on his wav to the three forks of 
the Missouri, and thence to the head-waters of the Yellowstone. 


APPROACHING THE YELLOWSTONE. 


11 


“What a splendid country for railroads! ” exclaimed the doc¬ 
tor, as we crossed the divide through a low gap that formed a 
natural road-bed with easy grades out of the valley. “ Rail¬ 
roads can he built here with as little cost as in what are called 
level countries, and the resources developed in this country 
would rival the wealth of Indus.” 


“ Did you ever read ‘ The First Families of the Sierras?’ ” I 
asked, looking the doctor in the face quizzically. 

“ No : what of them ? ” 

“Nothing, only one character struck me with much force as 
peculiarly Western. He was called ‘Judge,’ and attributed 
everything to the ‘glorious climate of Californy,’ and thought 
nothing impossible to ‘ this glorious climate of Californy ! ’ ” 

“But,” interrupted the doctor, “I do not mean the ‘climate 
of Montana,’ yet I am satisfied with it as the equal of California, 
or Italy, as to that.” 

“ You see the point, then— The boys had discovered a lit¬ 
tle streamlet of sparkling water with grassy banks, and were eager 
to stop for lunch. Pat grazed the ponies, and after an hour’s 
rest we moved on down the stream, and, passing one or two 
cabins, the doctor pointed out the lone grave of a colonel in the 
United States Army who in a fight with hostile Indians several 
years ago was decoyed from his retreat by the treacherous sav¬ 
ages and shot. A few miles on, the bluffs on either side of us be¬ 
gan to widen, and we soon emerged into the famous valley of 
the Yellowstone. We reached the river a short distance below 
the point where it rushes through a rugged canon, and takes 
its leave of the principal range of the Rocky Mountains. 

As I approached the far-famed Yellowstone my emotions 
were indescribable. In mv boyhood I had read of the wonder- 
ful adventures for which it had become historic, and had cher¬ 
ished a consuming desire to visit this far-away Western river, 


12 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


walled in by rugged mountains, and fed by perpetual snows; 
whose banks had for generations been trodden only by savage 
Sioux, Crows, and Blackfeet, and had echoed only to their tierce 
war-whoop, and to which the bravest “ pale-face ” scarcely dared 
adventure himself until only a few years ago. I stood on its 
banks in silence, with the strange sensation of boyish ambition 
realized thrilling my soul, until the doctor called my attention to 
the fact that the waters that rushed so rapidly over the rocky 
bottom at our feet came from the Wind River Mountains and 
flowed into the Missouri, the Mississippi, and on to the Gulf of 
Mexico, traveling a distance of nearly four thousand miles. 

The river here is one hundred and fifty yards wide and bor¬ 
dered by cottonwood. On the opposite side is the reservation 
of the Crow nation, long one of the most powerful and savage 
of all the Indian tribes of the West. The United States commis¬ 
sioners were now at their agency, twelve miles down the river, 
negotiating a treaty for their lands south of the Yellowstone; 
while the larger portion of the tribe had just returned from their 
hunting-grounds and lined the opposite bank of the river for 
miles with their lodges, or tepees , with the valley and foot-hills 
beyond darkened with herds of ponies. 

The cabin of the hunter and ranchman and the tent of bold 
prospecters stood hard by the few straggling lodges on this side. 
As we passed down toward the agency we met bands of Indians 
roaming all through the country, and I could not help thinking 
what a picture of the “ irrepressible conflict ” between advancing 
civilization and sullen savagery was now before me ! The white 
man crowding the Indian back toward the setting sun, reclaim¬ 
ing his wilderness to useful tillage, exterminating his game, sub¬ 
duing his forests, converting his rivers into commercial arteries, 
his vallevs into fields of golden grain, mining his mountains, and 
extending the arts of civilized industry ail over the country— 


SHIELDS RIVER. 


13 


tlie whole picture was here epitomized along the hanks of the 

i 

wildest of all the rivers of the continent. The soft sentimen¬ 
talism which romance has thrown over the untutored tribes of 
the forest melts away like morning mists before the demands 
of a brighter and better civilization, and we pity the victims of 
savage life who must he destroyed because they will not be sub¬ 
dued and civilized. 

At nightfall we camped on Shields River, a hold, rapid 
mountain-stream, which heads in a snowy range away to the 
northwest. The first night out in camp in a country filled with 
savage men and beasts is not the most favorable for sound, re¬ 
freshing sleep. Around the glaring camp-fire, with thousands 
of restless Crows not many miles away, and savage beasts, pos¬ 
sibly, nearer, we could not indulge much in the traditional 
yarns of camp-life. The horses were hobbled out, the boys 
tucked away in their “ little bed ; ” the doctor and I rolled our¬ 
selves up in the only buffalo-robe and went to sleep, “ sweetly 
dreaming,” while Pat sat silently and wakefully upon his dig¬ 
nity, apparently impressed with his great responsibility as much 
as was he who guarded Francis I. on the fatal night of Pavia— 

“. . . . who his sleepless vigils kept, 

While lords and ladies wailed and wept.” 


i 


CHAPTER II. 


The Ranch.—Hot Springs.—Trout-Fishing.—Bozeman’s Fate.—Thrilling Escape.— 

Yellowstone Valley.—Future Population. 

The next morning, refreshed, but breakfastless, a drive of 
ten miles down the river and across the foot-hills of Sheep 
Mountain, with Crazy Mountain twelve miles away to the 
north, brought us to the doctor’s ranch, where we did ample 
justice to a sumptuous repast, relished keenly after the long fast. 

The doctor’s ranch is on a small stream three miles north of 
the Yellowstone, at a point where two large veins of hot sul¬ 
phur-water boil up from the earth. These springs possess val¬ 
uable medicinal properties, and induced the doctor to venture 
so far beyond the bounds of civilization and expose himself 
and family to the privations and perils of frontier-life in the 
very presence of hostile Indians. Surprised to see such exten¬ 
sive improvements out here in this wilderness, twenty miles 
from the nearest house, save the Crow Agency, and forty miles 
from any other family, I asked an explanation. 

“ You see,’’ said the doctor, u I came to Montana in ’64, dis¬ 
covered these hot sulphur-springs, and, believing that the 
Northern Pacific Railroad would soon be constructed across 
this country, and that this extensive and fertile valley would be 
opened for settlement, I resolved to secure what I thought 
would some day be a valuable property.” 


HUNTING AND FISHING. 


15 


“ Niver a railroad,” interposed Pat—“ niver a railroad cum 
to these diggin's; hut the painted savages they did cum, and a 
pickle they made of us, indade, the red-skins.” 

“ Yes, it is true, the railroad never came, but the Indians 
did, and we had a narrow escape with our lives. They ran off 
my stock, and destroyed part of my improvements.” 

“ But it was the scalps upon our heads, it was, the 'tarnal 
crathurs was aftlier; and, liowly Yargin presarve us! we have 
our hair on yit, we have, sparin’ the docther.” 

We found a week's enjoyment at the doctor’s ranch, hunting 
and fishing. The streams abound with choice mountain-trout, 
which are finely flavored. They are of a light-gray color, 
changing into a bright yellow below, and beautifully speckled. 
They are quite game, average one pound and a half, and pull 
splendidly on a line. This species of trout abounds on the 
western slope, but is rare east of the mountains. Antelope 
and deer are plentiful, though it requires skill to take them. 
We were fortunate enough to bring in two splendid antelopes. 
Crazy Mountain, which appears to be a cluster of rugged moun¬ 
tains thrown together in wildest confusion, offers a fine retreat 
for the elk and bear, where they flourish in great numbers. We 
longed for a wild-bear hunt, with its adventures and perils; but 
neither time nor the weather favored the sport, and we had to 
be content with the many thrilling stories told us of the for¬ 
tune and fate of the bold hunters who have been reckless 
enough to venture amid the rugged wilds of the Rocky Moun¬ 
tains. 

About seventy miles below here the gallant Bozeman met 
his sad, sad fate. Passing down the valley one day to the old 
Bozeman crossing on the Yellowstone, the extinguished camp¬ 
fires, an old wagon-tire, and other debris , recalled the fate of 
the bold adventurer ; and a friend, whose knowledge of the early 


16 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


pioneers and their fate is equaled only by the relish with which 
he tells the story of their exploits, gave the following story: 

A warm friend of Bozeman, who lived in Gallatin Valley, 
desired to go down the Yellowstone to Fort Smith on business. 
It was a dangerous route, and nothing would do but Bozeman 
must go with him, as he was an experienced mountaineer and 
a good Indian fighter. At first he declined, saying that he 
would never return. He seemed to have a presentiment of his 
fate, though he at last yielded to the urgent entreaties of his 
friend. He remarked to his friends on starting that they would 
never see his face again. 

The two proceeded down the river in safety about eighty 
miles, when one day, just after making a hearty lunch, they saw 
a party of Indians approaching, whom they at first supposed to 
be friendly. On discovering their mistake, Bozeman’s com¬ 
panion fled and escaped, and he stood alone, powerless and 
speechless, making no resistance while they coolly disarmed him 
and then took his life. Thus perished one of the boldest and 
bravest of pioneers. 

While here, another incident of thrilling interest is called up. 
It was related to me by E. G. Brooke, Esq., a well-known citizen 
of Montana, and is in substance as follows: 

In the spring of 1866 a party of twenty persons, including 
two women and five children, descended the Yellowstone in a 
“ Mackinaw,” returning to the States. About seventy miles 
below here, and near the place where poor Bozeman afterward 
fell, they were attacked by a large band of Sioux Indians. One 
of the men was killed outright, and the rest abandoned the boat 
with everything except what they could carry on their persons, 
and fled toward the settlements. With one sick man, two 
women, and five helpless children, harassed by the savages, fac¬ 
ing a piercing March wind rendered doubly severe by a blind- 


A PIONEER ADVENTURE. 


17 


ing snow-storm, living on raw elk-meat at half-rations, trudging 
through mud and snow, over rocks and cactus, half clad and half 
starved, for eight days and nights, clinging to life and yet ex¬ 
pecting every day to be scalped, they excited the liveliest sym¬ 
pathy and the deepest interest. Strange to say, they came into 
such deep distress that some of the men seriously proposed to 
abandon the women and children to their fate, and make good 
their own escape. To this proposition a rough-looking, noble- 
hearted man replied : “ My friends, I could never go home and 
tell my wife and children that I had been craven-hearted enough 
to leave two poor women and their children to perish in the 
wilderness. No, never! 1 will stand by them and perish with 
them if the worst comes to the worst.” The cowards slunk 
away from his presence until they could catch the spirit of his 
heroism, and then returned one by one and pledged their lives 
for the protection of the defenseless. This lion-hearted man at 
once became their leader, carrying his food and gun with three 
hundred cartridges, his blankets and frying-pan by day, giving 
his blankets to the women and children at night, and keeping 
watch with his trusty gun over them while they caught the 
hasty, heavy sleep necessary to strengthen them for their peril¬ 
ous journey. They crossed the river near the spot where we 
now stand, the men wading through the cold, dashing, danger¬ 
ous billows, bearing the helpless members ot the party in their 
arms, and making several trips before the last one was safely 
over. 

The same was repeated at Shields River, and scarcely had 
they reached the west bank of the latter stream with their 
charge when the savages came up to the east bank from which 
they had just escaped. After much privation and suffering they 
were rescued by a party who, with provisions and clothing, had 
been sent from Bozeman for their relief. Much of the time 


18 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


the women and children marked the frozen ground with their 
bare, bleeding feet. 

One incident of this perilous journey through the wilderness 
is worth relating. One night around their camp-fire, when 
everything was still and solemn as death, a member of the 
party in a full, clear voice, struck up— 

“ When marshaled on the nightly plain, 

The glittering hosts bestud the sky,” etc. 

One of the ladies joined in with a soft, tender voice, and the 
effect was magical. As the notes of that grand old hymn that 
had guided so many bewildered souls to the Star of Bethlehem 
floated out on the night air that had so often trembled with the 
hideous yell of the savage, stout hearts were melted, and the 
souls of hardy men kindled with a purer faith and a sublimer 
courage. Thenceforth they could do, and dare, and die. Sure¬ 
ly, this is one of the most thrilling incidents of pioneer-life in 
Montana. 

The valley, stretching for many miles along the Yellow¬ 
stone, is fertile and beautiful beyond description. When safe 
for the abode of white men, a vast domain of rich lands, stretch¬ 
ing from the canon above the mouth of Shields River to the 
mouth of Powder River, and including the Big Horn, Clark’s 
Fork, and numerous smaller tributaries, will be settled up, and 
will support a dense population. Only think of it ! Across 
these virgin lands no surveyor’s chain has been stretched, and 
into this virgin soil no squatter’s stake has been driven. We 
can now have pick and choice. But, with visions of cottages and 
mansions, and waving grain-fields, and luxurious wealth, that 
will some day abound here, before my mind, I went on my 
way singing: 

“ No foot of land do I possess, 

No cottage in this wilderness— 

A poor wayfaring man ! ” 






N 



THE YELLOWSTONE. 




















































































THE YELLOWSTONE. 


19 


The climate is humid and mild compared with the region 
nearer the mountains. The soil will produce all the cereals in 
abundance, and all the esculent roots and vines. The bottom¬ 
lands are richly supplied with willow, alder, thistles, hops, mint, 
peas, currants, gooseberries, service-berries, various species of 
thorn, and other fruit-bearing shrubs. The cottonwood grows 
to great size, and the chokecherry-bush discards its mountain 
modesty, and aspires to the proportions of a tree. The Yellow¬ 
stone above the mouth of the Powder River sweeps through 
the country in long and majestic stretches, with a current of at 
least four miles an hour. Its bosom is studded with islands by 
hundreds, some of which are three and four miles long, and 
covered with cottonwood-groves; many of them are so hand¬ 
some that the tourist is reminded of the well-kept grounds of 
an old English country-mansion. Indications of the presence 
of coal in abundance are met with near the Powder River, 
while sandstone-bluffs crop out along the Yellowstone above 
Tongue River, and limestone exists plentifully above Pompey’s 
Pillar. Thirty miles above the mouth of the Big Horn may 
be regarded as the head-waters of navigation. The landscape 
scenery for hundreds of miles along the 1 ellowstone is unsur- 
passed in beauty and picturesque grandeur, until the traveler 
reaches the mouth of the Powder River, at which he strikes 
the region of country known as the “ Mauvaises Terres,” 
or Bad Lands, which, like much of the country on the Upper 
Missouri, presents to the eye the appearance of burnt plains 
broken by large ravines, and interspersed with immense benches 
of baked clay. “ Here,” says a traveler, “ a sudden change 
takes place, and we are ushered from the highest state of verd¬ 
ure to that of extreme desolation ; and it is, without excep¬ 
tion, the most horrible-looking country I ever saw.” Two or 
three days’ drive from this point, and we reach the vast chain 


20 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


of yellow sandstone bluffs hundreds of feet high, bleak and 
bare, through which the river forces its passage, and from which 
it takes its name. 

No country in the world presents such striking contrasts- 
and varied scenery. The diversified conditions of climate, and 
products, and resources, indicate unmistakably that this vast 
Territory is specially adapted to a diversified industry, which al¬ 
ways implies a self-sustaining and prosperous people. The 
future is as full of promise as the past has been rich in ad¬ 
venture. 

There is no portion of Montana, nor any part of the moun¬ 
tains, better watered than this valley. “ The mountains,” says 
a writer, “ are jeweled all over with copious springs as clear and 
cold as crystal ice. These countless fountains, uniting their 
currents above, come down, rushing through canons and splash¬ 
ing over ledges, and traverse the valley like ribbons of silver. 
The water is transparent as glass, and the countless brooks 
abound with the finest trout.” All the streams are lined more 
or less with timber; the land is gently undulating, and not a 
foot but can be easily irrigated if necessary. As I rambled over 
the foot-hills, I could but think that this vast stretch of rich 
country, which during ages past has been the undisputed abode 
of the wild red-man ; these streams, on the banks of which he 
was born, and by the side of which he was reared ; these plains, 
over which he roamed at will with the wild beasts that he loved 
to chase—all must soon come under the influence of civiliza¬ 
tion, and yield to the sceptre of the irrepressible white man. 
The words of Whittier came involuntarily into my mind : 

“ I hear the tread of pioneers, 

Of nations yet to be— 

The first low wash of waves where soon 


Shall roll a human sea.” 


EXPEDITIONS DOWN THE YELLOWSTONE. 


21 


Ere another decade, thought I, the iron horse will go puffing 
and snorting through these valleys, drawing behind him the 
thundering train laden with curious travelers and burdened with 
the treasures of mountain and valley and the commerce of na¬ 
tions ; these water-courses shall be lined with mills and manu¬ 
factories propelled by their power, these landscapes flecked 
with herds of cattle and dotted with homes of prosperous pio¬ 
neers ; while on every hand will come up the din and whir of 
business, the evidences of a great and prosperous common¬ 
wealth. 

Two expeditions have descended the Yellowstone for more 
than a hundred miles, one of which was the party surveying 
the route of the Northern Pacific Railroad, under a strong mili¬ 
tary force in charge of Colonel Baker, which went down during 
the summer of 1872, but after a hard-fought battle with the 
Sioux Indians, and losing several men, were compelled to re¬ 
turn ; the other, a party of prospecters going to look for gold 
in the vicinity of Tongue River, in the spring of 1871, but after 
a hard fight with the Indians, who were determined to resist 
them, and the loss of one man, they also were compelled to re¬ 
turn. It is thought that gold in rich cpiantities abounds in the 
mountains below ; and daring, restless adventurers will not be 
satisfied until the country is prospected. 


CHAPTER III. 


The Crow Agency.—The Council.—The Treaty.—Novel Scenes.—Indian Character. 

—Names, Sagacity, and Eloquence.—Blackfoot. 

On Saturday morning, in company with my friend the doc¬ 
tor, I rode over to the Crow Agency, which is about ten miles 
to the southeast, across the Yellowstone River, which we had to 
ford. This proved to be critical business, as the stream was 
swollen from recent rains above, and was much deeper than we 
expected to find it, and very rapid, though we escaped with no 
injury save a good drenching, and were grateful indeed to get 
free from the mad waves of the surging, turbulent river with 
no worse misfortune. These mountain-streams, rushing down 
over beds of huge bowlders, in many places with a descent that 
sends the surging volumes onward at a wonderful rate, are often 

O O 7 

dangerous to the life and property of him who ventures to cross 
them when swollen. 

The improvements at the agency are a few large storehouses 
and residences for officers and employes—about twenty-five in 
number—arranged in the form of a square, with one side open, 
and about twenty or more small houses for the use of the In¬ 
dians who mav desire to live in them. There is also a farm of 
several hundred acres in cultivation, producing grain and vege¬ 
tables; also a grist-mill located on the little stream hard by, that 
comes down from the cluster of rugged peaks rising up to the 


INDIAN TREATY. 


23 


south. The houses are built of sun-dried bricks, and commonly 
known as adobe, or “ doby, 11 houses. The Indians prefer their 
lodges, and the out-buildings are seldom used except by the 
white men who have married squaws. 

The council, which had been in session for a week, between 
the United States commissioners, of which Major Brunot was 
principal, and the chiefs and head-men of the Crow nation, had 
just concluded, and the treaty was signed only a few moments 
before we arrived. This is one of the most important treaties 
for the Government that have been made with the Indians for 
many years. By it all the country south of the Yellowstone 
River belonging to the Crows, embracing an area extending to 
the forty-fifth degree of north latitude on the south, to the mouth 
of the Big Horn on the east, amounting to more than six mill¬ 
ions of acres, abounding in rich mineral lands, pasture-grounds, 
and fertile valleys, including Big Horn, Clark's Fork, Rosebud, 
and others, has been added to the public domain.* 

The Crows get a reservation about half as large, which 
embraces the Judith Basin, a country away north toward the 
Missouri, and receive the interest, annually, on one million dol¬ 
lars for their support as long as they exist as a tribe. 

I had the pleasure of meeting and talking with the commis¬ 
sioners, and made the acquaintance of the newly-appointed 
a^ent, who is a Methodist preacher. Several of the Indian 
tribes in Montana, according to the present policy, are partially 
under the supervision of the Methodist Episcopal Church. The 
sudden and wonderful change in the pecuniary circumstances 
of Indian agents, often from comparative poverty to wealth 
and affluence, enabling them to build costly mansions, gh e 
splendid entertainments, and fare sumptuously every day, and all 
on simply a living salary of fifteen hundred dollars a year, has 
aroused the suspicions of the public ; and an honest man taking 
* This treaty was not ratified by Congress, and did not take effect. 


24 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


the position, even if he resists the temptations before him, be¬ 
comes the subject of unpleasant surmises, severe and trying criti¬ 
cism, as well as the avowed and intense opposition of the “ In¬ 
dian Ring,” whose purpose is to make the most of the present 
policy toward the red-men. 

The Crows were long one of the most powerful of the West- 
ern Indian tribes. Thev roamed the Plains from the summit of 

t/ 

the Rocky Mountains on the west to the borders of the more 

t/ 

powerful Sioux nation on the east, and from the Judith River on 
the north to the Platte on the south, though their place of 
rendezvous has generally been about the 1 ellowstone and Big 
Horn Rivers. They have always been the deadly enemies of the 
Blackfeet, with which tribe they are now at war. They are now 
at war also with their neighbors the Sioux, whom they greatly 
fear, also with the Cheyennes and Arapahoes. For a long time 
they were the enemies of the whites, and for many years were 
the terror of the trapper and prospecter; and no doubt many a 
u pale-face ” has quailed before their sayage war-whoop and 
fallen the victim of their bloody scalping-knife. Bonneville 
speaks of an encounter with them, and Irving describes them 
as a treacherous and warlike tribe, horse-stealers of the tirst 
order, and easily provoked to acts of violence and bloodshed. I 
think that Stevens was annoyed by them, and one party of 
traders were relieved, while in their country, of all their valua¬ 
bles and accoutrements, narrowly escaping with their lives. 

But since the treaty with them at Laramie, in 1865, they have 
professed great friendship for the whites, though accused of 
raids and various depredations commonly charged to the Sioux. 
A raid was made into the Gallatin Yalley in the fall of 1871, in 
which two white men were killed, and a large herd of horses 
stolen. Several raids have been made since, by which horses 
were stolen. These misdemeanors have generally been charged 


THE CROWS. 


25 


to the Cheyennes and Sioux, but may have been committed by 
the Crows. 

The Crows are said to be quite fond of practical jokes. A 
party of them met a white man on the prairie, and took his tine 
horse, equipments, clothes—everything—and gave him in return 
a complete Indian outfit. The transformation from a finely- 
mounted and well-dressed cavalier to a full suit of savage dress 
—hunting-shirt, breecli-clout, leggins, moccasins, hat, and filthy 
blanket, mounted on a bony pony in primitive style and in a 
pitiable plight—was complete. In this predicament they left 
him with his scalp on, to indulge in such reflections as the oc¬ 
casion suggested, while a noble red-skin, dressed in the full suit 
of a civilized gentleman, and mounted on a splendid charger, 
rode away with the yelling crowd. 

By war and pestilence this once numerous tribe has been 
reduced to less than four thousand, divided into two parties 
known as the Mountain and the River Crows, so called from 
the country occupied by them respectively. 

They live and roam in separate companies, but are on good 
terms, and receive their annuities together. Both parties were 
represented in the recent council, and both signed the treaty. 
They had just returned from the buffalo-country, and the larger 
portion of the tribe were camped in the vicinity, their tepees 
arranged in promiscuous groups or villages along the river-bank 
for miles. All the chiefs, head-men, and warriors, with large 
numbers of women and children, were present at the agency, 
making the largest body of Indians I had ever seen, and espe- 
ciallv of those who have scarcely emerged from a state of bar- 
barism. Most of them are yet quite “primitive” in their ap¬ 
pearance, and show but slightly the “ genial influences of civ¬ 
ilization." 

It is customary after a treaty to make them a present of 


26 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


some kind, and, as the commissioners liad nothing else, the 
agent gave them a good supply of ammunition, which was just 
being distributed. It was a motley group, and a scene of con¬ 
fusion and uproar to one not accustomed to such exhibitions. 
Bands of marshaled and painted warriors stood or sat in circles, 
and were receiving each his quota of cartridges from the re¬ 
spective captain or chief. Old men worn out in the service, 
and no longer able to stand in the ranks and go out with the 
valiant braves, looked on with intense interest; squaws dressed 
in every conceivable manner, and rolling in filth, many of them 
with papooses strapped on their backs, and looking more like 
slaves, wandered hither and thither in every direction; while 
scores of half-clad, happy little urchins were bounding nimbly 
about, shooting their arrows, indulging in their playful sports,, 
shouting at the top of their voices, and having a good time 
generally. Horsemen moved to and fro, and everything for 
the time seemed to be full of excitement. First one, and then 
another, mounting a barrel, a goods-box, or a pony, would ha¬ 
rangue the crowd. This speech-making they seemed to con¬ 
sider quite an honor, and enjoyed it hugely. Some of them 
were good orators, in their tongue, and by their flow of lan¬ 
guage commanded silence and respectful attention whenever 
they talked, and I longed to know what they said. Others 
had but little magnetism, and attracted no attention by their 
harangues. Some of them appeared to be greatly dissatisfied 
with the treaty," and the people feared that they would, in 
their excitement, be tempted to acts of violence. 

I saw all of the chiefs, and was formally introduced by a 
friend to many of them. Some of them appeared quite cor¬ 
dial in their manner, and a number of them manifested a good 
degree of intelligence in their way. Of course, they are untu¬ 
tored and uncultivated, and are ignorant of the white man’s 


INDIAN NAMES. 


27 


ways; but those who think the Indian a fool in every respect 
are greatly mistaken. 

There are a number of them called chiefs, and they seem to 
have degrees of rank among them similar to the officers of an 
army. In time of war tliev have one head-chief, and all the rest 
command squads under him, and are subject to his orders. Then 
they have what are called head-men, who I suppose are something 
like u high privates,” and generally sit in councils and sign trea¬ 
ties. In time of peace the tribe is divided into parties, or bands, 
under the leadership of the various chiefs. They are not distin¬ 
guished by their dress, though some of the chiefs have costly 
attire, all beaded, colored, feathered, and finished up in the high¬ 
est style of Indian art, which, however, is only worn on special 
occasions. In time of battle they are often attired in the most 
gorgeous manner. Imagine him with a beaded robe, leggins, 
moccasins, belt, arrow-case, and his face painted, person orna¬ 
mented with feathers and glittering trinkets—pieces of silver, 
tin, and shells—and all crowned with a flowing head-dress of 
eagleVfeathers arranged in genuine savage style, perhaps trail¬ 
ing the ground behind when he walks, together with shield, gun, 
and accoutrements, and ornaments, mounted on a fiery charger, 
decked out in corresponding style—and you have an idea of the 
royal appearance of an Indian dignitary, who feels as proud 
and as great as a king upon his throne. Such an outfit, too, is 
quite costly. In a battle down on the Yellowstone in 1872 a 
Sioux chief was killed, and a soldier was offered a hundred 

and fifty dollars for his head-dress alone. 

*/ 

Their names are after the Indian style, and some of them 
rather singular, though often suggestive. Some of them are: 
Blackfoot (Kam-ne-but'-se), Iron Bull (Che-ve-te-pu-ma'-ta), 
Long Horse (E-she-te-haB-se), Show-his-face (In-te'-us), Bearwolf 
(I-sa-autch'-be-te-se), Thin Belly (El-la-caus'-se), Good Heart (Us- 


28 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


pil-ta-wat'-se), Crazy Head (A-su-ma'-ratz), Bui 1-goes-hun ting, 
Old Hog, Long Snake, White Mouth, Hunts-his-enemy, Spotted 
Tail, Red Sides, Small Waist, The Old Crow, Little Lodge, and 
many others, which in the Crow vernacular are absolutely un¬ 
pronounceable by a white man. The Indian name for Crow, the 
name of their tribe, is Ab-sau'-ro-ke, but you cannot express 
many of their sounds by any written characters, as they are 
uttered partly down in the throat. It is unlike any language 1 
ever heard spoken before. Some Indians—for instance, the Nez 
Perces, and others on the Pacific coast—have a pleasant, musi¬ 
cal language ; but not so with the Crows. I do not know who 
is the head-chief now of the Crows. I think the chieftaincy of 
this tribe depends much upon the force of character and ability 
of the man to draw the people after him. 

Crazy Head is smart, but said to be noisy and impulsive ; 
Iron Bull is a wise counselor, and shows an iron constitution 
and unconquerable will. When he opens his mouth, he speaks 
as one having authority, and they all give attention. He and 
Long Horse are good warriors; Good Heart has a very pleas¬ 
ant, good-natured face ; while Blackfoot, of tall, portly form 
and dignified bearing, is intelligent, a good talker, and a 
shrewd politician, though some of his people say he doesn’t 
fight well. 

Blackfoot was the chief spokesman for the Indians in the 
council, and it is amusing to read some of his speeches, which 
show no little good sense and shrewdness, with an occasional 
sparkle of wit. They did not want to sign another treaty, feel¬ 
ing that they had been badly swindled by the council-treaty of 
Laramie in 1867, asserting that it had neither been explained to 
them correctly nor carried out in good faith by the Govern¬ 
ment. They felt that they had been wronged. Then, this was 
their home, where they were born and reared ; where they had 


INDIAN ELOQUENCE. 


29 


long hunted the elk and buffalo 5 where the bones of their fa¬ 
thers and mothers now reposed ; and they were loath to leave it. 

It may be of interest to the curious to see a specimen of In¬ 
dian eloquence with the gestures and genuflections left out. 
After the council had been opened with religious services and 
Mr. Brunot had explained the object of his visit, speaking 
through an intepreter, Blackfoot arose and said : 

u 011 call the Great Spirit Jesus in your language; we 
call him, in the Crow language, E-so-we-wat'-se. I am going to 
light the pipe and talk to the Great Spirit and lighting his 
pipe and looking up reverently, he said : “The Great Spirit has 
made the red-man and the white man. and sees us all before him 
to-day. Have pity upon us! May the white man and the In¬ 
dian speak truth to each other to-day! The sun that looks 
down upon us to-day, and gives us light and heat, sees that our 
hearts are true and that all we do is for the good of the poor 
red-man. The moon that shines upon us in the night-time 
will see us prosper and do well. The earth on which we walk, 
from which we come, which we love as our mother, which we 
love as our country, we ask thee to see that we do that which is 
good for us and our children. This tobacco comes from the 
whites; we mix it with bark that comes from the Indian trees 
and burn it before thee, O Great Spirit! So may our hearts 
and the hearts of the white men go out before thee and be 
made good and right! ” 

o o 

As lie invoked the Great Spirit, the earth, the moon, and 
the sun, the pipe was reverently held in the direction of each, 
after which it was presented to each of the commissioners, then 
to the chiefs, to smoke, when he said : 

“We are here together to-day, the red-men and the white 
men. We are glad to see you, for we want to have a long talk. 
There are a great many things we want to say. You came to 


30 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


see us last year, but we were not here; we were away getting 
buffalo. We were sorry we did not see you, but we were a 
long way off beyond the mountains and could not come. But 
this year, when we heard that you were coming, we made haste 
to come and meet you. We had to cross mountains and rivers; 
our people were weary and sick, but we wanted to see your 
face. You are our friends, and we are the white man’s friends. 
We have a large country. We set up our lodge-poles ; one 
reaches to the Yellowstone, the other is on W liite River, an¬ 
other one goes to the Wind River, and the others are on 
Bridger Mountains. This is our land. Many of these old 
Crows you see were born here. Our young men were raised 
here. Our fathers and mothers are buried here. It is a rich 
country; the whites are on it, they are stealing our quartz, but 
we say nothing. They steal a great deal of our money; they 
kill our buffalo; they go wolfing on our country. We do not 
want them to go into our country. We want guns and ammuni¬ 
tion to tight the Sioux with. We do not want to exchange our 
land. You are my friend. If I were to go into the white 
men’s country and bloody it as they do our country you would 
not like it. For many years I have known the whites. You 
have a big heart, but not so with the white men who come into 
our country. Some of them never sucked their mothers’ breasts. 
I think they were raised like a buffalo, and sucked a buffalo-cow 
for their mother. They have no hearts. I was not raised in 
that way. I am a man. I was raised and sucked milk from my 
mother’s breast. There is no white man’s blood on my hands, 
and I am not ashamed to shake hands with you. What I say is 
true. I am your friend. The sun sees me and hears what I sav. 
The Great Spirit hears me and knows that it is true. Did I ask 
these white men to come here and crowd me ? Buffalo-robes 
are my money; we have some buffalo left yet. If I go to the 


INDIAN ELOQUENCE. 


31 


buffalo-country and bring no robes back, the traders will not 
look at me and say, ‘ How, how ! ’ as they would if I had plenty. 
When you go to tight the Sioux, come and tell us. You are afraid 
of the Sioux. Two years ago I went with the soldiers. They 
were very brave, and were going through the Sioux country. 
I wanted to go ahead, but they got scared and turned back. 
Thev were the whirlwind. They went toward the Sioux coun- 
try, but the whirlwind turned back. We are not the whirlwind, 
but we go to the Sioux and fight them, and do not turn back. 
But we are not the whirlwind. The Crows and Sioux are at 
war, but I went into the Sioux camp alone. They offered to 
give us two hundred and sixty ponies, all taken from the whites, 
if we would join them. They took me by the arm and wanted 
me to stay with them and fight the white man, but I pulled 
loose from them and would not do so. 

“ You say the railroad is coming up the Yellowstone, that 
it is like the whirlwind and cannot be turned back. We do 
not want it to come. I do not think it will come. The Sioux 
are in the way, and you are afraid of them. They will turn 
the whirlwind back. When we fight the Sioux, they have bet¬ 
ter guns than we have. The Crows are the white man’s friend, 
but the Sioux fight the Crows and fight the white men, but you 
give them better guns than you give us. We do not want you 
to give them guns and ammunition and blankets.” 

When Mr. Brunot was reading the treaty made at Laramie, 
Blackfoot interrupted him and said : “ It is all lies. We do 
not want to hear any more of it. Wrap it up and throw it 
away. The Indian way of making a treaty is to light a pipe 
and smoke it. At Laramie the treaty was made. We did not 
feel right about it. We had made a long journey, and felt tired 
and sick. They gave us some horses. They thought they were 
doing a big thing, and making us. a big present. But the horses 


32 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


were wild, like the antelope. We caught them with the lasso ; 
tliev jumped and kicked; we held tight on to them, but they 
got away from us. We were tired and sick hunting them, and 
when we got home they were nearly all gone. The commis¬ 
sioners told us we should have food for forty years. They were 
bi^ men, and not drunk when tliev told us, but now tliev will 
not give it to us. We asked them if we might have the buffalo 
fora longtime. They said, ‘Yes,- but that is not written in 
the treaty. They promised us plenty of goods and food for 
forty years, plenty for all the Crows. Listen to what I say: we 
asked, ‘ Shall we and our children have food for forty years ? ’ 
They said, ‘Yes, yes,’ but that is not in the treaty. We told 
them that there were many bad Indians, but that we would 
hold on to the hands of the white man. We told them that 
the Piegans and Sioux had killed the white men, and that they 
were afraid of them. I asked them to look at us; that we had 
no guns, and they should not be afraid of us. They said, ‘ 1 es, 
yes,’ but it is not written there. The treaty, you say, bought 
all of our land north of the Yellowstone. And what do we 
get for it? I am ashamed about it. We get a pair of stock¬ 
ings, and when we put them on they go to pieces. They get 
some old shirts and have them washed, and give them to us. 
We put them on and our elbows go right through them.” (Here 
he went through the motion of putting on a shirt.) “ They bring 
us blankets, and we can blow through them. They send us tin 
kettles ; we go to get water to carry to our lodges; we dip the 
water, but it all runs out again. That is what we get for our 
land. Why do they not send us annuity goods ? We go to the 
buffalo-country and get skins; our wives dress them, and we 
give them to our friends. We give more presents to our white 
friends than the annuity goods are worth. Our goods are bet¬ 
ter than those we get, and this is what we get for our lands. 


SIGNING A TREATY. 


33 


You ask us to tell you wliat we want. We want Mexican 
blankets, elk-teetli, heads, eagle-feathers, panther and other 
skins. We like tine horses and needle-guns. These things are 
to us what money is to you.” 

Language and tobacco were both nearly exhausted, when 
the council broke up without concluding the treaty. The In¬ 
dians, after much consultation among themselves, at last con¬ 
sented to sign the treaty, each one marching up in turn and 
saying, “ Yes.” They will not touch a pen. It is bad luck, 
they think. Blackfoot’s shrewdness as a politician was shown 
in his refusal to sign the treaty until strongly urged by the 
voung braves to do so. They had refused to recognize the 
treaty of Laramie, which Blackfoot now said was “ all lies,” 
but they cannot complain of him for any consequences of this 
treaty. 

tJ 


i 


t 

CHAPTER IV. 


Indian Habits, Customs, and Beliefs.—Rescue of Two Captive Women.—Peace 
Policy.—Matrimony lively.—The Arrow vs. the Idea.—Missionaries.—Passing 
away. 


Indian character and customs are so familiar to American 
readers that I need not linger amid their traditions. 

They have quite erroneous ideas of the number and power 
of the whites, and the policy of sending their chiefs and head¬ 
men to Washington to see the u Great Father ” has proved wise 
and salutary. They are fond of war, and take great pride in 
their deeds of prowess. Many of them rival Miinchhausen him¬ 
self in their wonderful stories of personal heroism and courage. 
They are good story-tellers as well as good fighters. I was 
highly entertained one day while listening—rather watching, 
for he talked more with his hands than with his mouth—to an 
old fellow, worn out in the service, as he told of an encounter 
with a Cheyenne in a battle on the Big Horn. Though he talked 
mostly by signs, yet he made me understand where it happened 
and how it terminated. By the feint of loading and firing his 
gun he told how he killed the horse, then the rider; and by a 
dexterous flourish of the huge knife which he drew from his 
belt he showed how he took ofl the Cheyenne’s scalp. The 
sparkle of his eye and the hearty laugh which followed mani¬ 
fested his satisfaction at this the crowning glory of the event. 


INDIAN HABITS. 


35 


It is a dishonor for a warrior to lose his scalp; the loss of a 
brave’s scalp dishonors him in the future state. His spirit is in 
torment, and can never go to the red-man's heaven until a rela¬ 
tive or friend avenges his death by taking the scalp of another, 
no matter who, so it be an enemy, by which it is redeemed 
and admitted to the “ happy hunting-grounds.” 

They “ marry and are given in marriage ” according to 
their custom; each having as many wives as he may desire, pro¬ 
vided he has ponies enough to pay for them. 

The degradation and servitude of the scpiaws excite sympa¬ 
thy. What a field for the labors of E. Cady Stanton, Anna 
Dickinson, Susan B. Anthony, and Mrs. Dr. Mary Walker, in 
the interest of “ woman’s rights ! ” The nineteenth wife has not 
even the questionable privilege of a divorce from her liege lord. 
It is an unpardonable crime for a squaw to leave her husband 
for any cause. 

The mother carries her papoose in a kind of pouch or pocket, 
made of skins and lined with furs, which is fastened to one 
side of a board, in which the little fellow is placed and bound 
up so securely, with its back to the board, that it is unable to 
move hand or foot—straight as the board to which it is lashed. 
In this condition it is carried, sometimes on the mother’s 
back, and sometimes dangling at the side of the pony. This 
gives the Indian the straight and erect form in which he takes 
so much pride. 

The large numbers of little papooses form an interesting 
spectacle as they engage in their youthful sports around the 
tepees or gambol over the grassy plateaus and along the river- 
banks, strangers to sorrow as well as soap-suds, and happy as 
they can be. I once thought that they were wanting in affec¬ 
tion for their children, but as I have watched an Indian mother 
caress and fondle her babe so lovingly, and saw how she was 


36 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


delighted as the other little urchins would gather around and 
kiss and amuse the wee one with their antics, I found that I 
was greatly mistaken. 

The buffalo, or bison, is his principal dependence for food 
and clothing, in his wild condition, and the hunt his favorite 
employment. The chase is very exciting, during which the 
Indian is in his glory. They kill only the fattest ones, then 
“ jerk ” the meat to supply them with food for the winter. Of 
course, they hunt the elk, the deer, the moose, and all other 
wild animals that are good for food. 

Their skill in approaching stealthily upon their game is 
equaled only by the readiness with which they detect by sight 
and sound the presence of game or an enemy. Trained from 
childhood to watch against the approach of foes, the old and 
cautious will never arise from the ground, no matter how sud¬ 
denly awakened, until his practised eye has surveyed the field. 
Or if an enemy is upon him he will know his position before 
exposing himself above the grass. 

The most thrilling of all the scenes of Indian warfare and 
the most absorbing to American readers are connected with 
the capture and rescue of American women and girls. 

A friend of mine relates an incident of this character which 
is thrilling indeed. A band of brave men were pursuing a 
party of Indians, who had stolen their stock while crossing the 
Plains. They had been out several days, when the scouts dis¬ 
covered a party of Indians camped in a deep ravine in the 
mountains. By some means they discovered that the savages 
had three white women-captives. Who they were, how long they 
had been with the Indians, or of their history, they knew noth¬ 
ing. hTor did it matter. The noble mountaineers determined 
at once to rescue them, or perish in the attempt. They ascer¬ 
tained the precise location of the camp, surrounded it, and with 


THE INDIAN POLICY. 


37 


terrific swoop bore down upon the savages, making the utmost 
speed to the captives, one of whom was murdered by a squaw 
at the commencement of the hgffit. The other two were res- 
cued, while the entire party of Indians, seized with consterna¬ 
tion, yet refusing to surrender, were slain. The return of the 
rescued women to their people, after a long captivity and un¬ 
told suffering, occasioned the wildest joy. But how many, 
alas! have been torn by savage hands from home and loved 
ones, never to return ; and how many have been the victims of 
savage cruelty, until, heart-broken, they have fallen under their 
burdens, far, far away in this wilderness, to crave death as a 
precious boon ! 

Western men, who are most familiar with Indian character 
and post-tradership corruption, generally denounce in unmeas¬ 
ured terms the present peace-policy of the Government, and 
recommend the wisdom of turning over all Indian tribes, to¬ 
gether with their reservations, to the War Department. And 
unless there is a great reform in the administration of In¬ 
dian affairs, such a course appears to be inevitable. The In¬ 
dians have been robbed of their annuities by traders and offi¬ 
cials, furnished with arms and ammunition, and trifled with by 
the Government so long that, unless there is a change, some 
fine morning:, not in the distant future, the whole country will 
be appalled by the massacre of all the men in one of these fron¬ 
tier forts, all the inhabitants of one of our beautiful valleys, 
or an entire detachment of soldiers, with many brave officers, 
not one escaping to tell the tale, followed by a general Indian 
war. While the Indians have been mistreated, a et this does 
not account for all their misdeeds. They are savages by nature, 
and delight in war and bloodshed. They must be subdued ; 
must be made to feel the strong arm of the Government, and 
fear it, before they will respect “the powers that be, v or before 


38 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


any progress can be made toward their civilization. Let there 
be a mild but firm government exercised over them. Faithful¬ 
ly observe every treaty, and punish them for every misde¬ 
meanor. Then will we have peace throughout our borders, and 
the Indian will be civilized as far as the possibilities of his 
nature will permit. 

The nomadic life of the Indian in his present condition, if 
nothing else, defeats all efforts to educate his children. They 
do not care to have their children learn the manners and cus¬ 
toms of the whites. You may teach the arrow , but not the idea , 
“ how to shoot.’’ If they were compelled to remain on their 
reservations, the better class of them might be instructed in 
manual-labor schools, not otherwise. 

An estimable gentleman and his wife, of the Methodist 
Episcopal Church, are at the agency as teachers. They have no 
power to compel the children to attend school. The children 
have no kind of inclination sclioolward and bookward, and the 
treacherous little scamps are not easily caught; and yet the 
catching is before the hanging, even to the alphabet. You can 
imagine the good woman coaxing a few little dirty urchins in 
one direction, and the man pursuing two or three ffeet boys in 
another. Finally, they succeed in getting half a dozen or so 
into the school-room, and, by promising to give each of. them a 
u hard tack,” they will sta}^ long enough to repeat the alphabet, 
and then, with the reward of their learning, the wily young 
Arabs will scamper off to their sports. One day, in the ab¬ 
sence of the teachers, I succeeded in getting about a dozen lit¬ 
tle urchins into the school-room, and interested them greatly 
by playing on the melodeon. I put them through various exer¬ 
cises in orthography and arithmetic, then gave them slate and 
chalk, and it was astonishing how rapidly and accurately they 
could draw the pictures of various animals, war-scenes, etc. 


INDIAN RELIGION. 


39 


Some of them are very bright. I was particularly interested in 
“ Goodheart’s ” two children, a boy and a girl, eight and ten 
respectively. The chief seemed to take much pains with them, 
and is delighted with any special attentions they receive from 
the whites. 

Some time since the agent issued an order requiring all white 
men who had not married squaws to leave the reservation in a 
given time. For a time matrimony was a lively business. They 
were “ marrying and giving in marriage ” until the very day 
designated for the departure of the incorrigible. Those who 
were living with squaws, after the Indian custom, were legally 
married, and those who preferred wedlock to wandering lassoed 
their ponies and went in search of dusky maidens, who found 
themselves all at once in great demand; matches were soon 
made, ponies changed hands, wedding-feasts were numerous, and 
brides were at a premium. A minister was kept employed, 
while the red-men rejoiced exceedingly at this accession to their 
numbers. It was my privilege to witness one of these impos¬ 
ing (!) ceremonies and enjoy the romantic excitement of the oc¬ 
casion. 

These Indians are very devout during religious service, as I 
had occasion to witness on the Sabbath. Indeed, they were more 
reverent and more readily conformed to the form of worship 
than many of the whites who were present. To all appearance 
the missionary field here is white unto the harvest. They listen 
attentively to the “old, old story of Jesus and his love,” and 
are easily affected to an emotional interest. Their religion, or 
superstition, embodies the idea of a Supreme Being, the “ Great 
Spirit,” and the idea of sacrifice, in the nature of atonement, 
floats in their traditions. Once a year they go up on a high 
mountain apart, with ponies to offer in sacrifice to the “ Great 
Spirit” as a kind of atonement for sin. They also worship the 


40 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


sun, moon, and earth. Their “ sun-dance ” is a kind of morning 
worship which they observe just at sunrise. The rising sun has 
always been an object of worship, enjoined by nearly every sys¬ 
tem of paganism in every age and country. 

They have also crude notions of a future state of rewards 
and punishments, evil spirits, and many other doctrines taught 
in the Christian Scriptures, which they have received through 
their traditions, and which they hold very crudely and in con¬ 
nection with their superstitions. 

Their “ medicine-men,” with their lodges, charms, incanta¬ 
tions and antic performances, are the products of their belief in 
evil spirits. The Catholics, Methodists, and Presbyterians, have 
all been more or less successful in their missionary efforts among 
the Indians of the West and Northwest, though but little head¬ 
way has been made in this tribe, as they have never had a regu¬ 
lar missionary among them. It will take time and labor to ac- 
complish much among them, but what a reward awaits the self- 
sacrificing and successful missionary ! I was much interested in 
an account of the death of Rev. Mr. Mitchell, who lived and 
labored among the Indians of the Indian Territory. He was a 
member of the Indian Mission Conference of the Methodist Epis¬ 
copal Church, South, had come to them when they were almost 
savages, spent his whole life with them, and, when dying, far away 
from his home and kindred and friends—save his own family— 
they gathered around him, wept over him, did all they could 
for him, and when all was over they gave him a Christian burial 
and moistened his grave with their tears. What a life ! what a 
death! what a funeral! what a monument! In that great day, 
for which all other days were made, when these dusky children 
of the forest shall rise up to call him blessed, he, like his Mas¬ 
ter, “ shall see of the travail of his soul and be satisfied.” 

I was present at one of their night councils. They sat in a 


INDIAN COUNCIL. 


41 


circle upon the ground, with legs crossed and feet under them, 
all smoking the same pipe, which they passed from one to 
another, each taking a whiff or two as it went round. In one 
respect, at least, they differed from the average convention or 
council among the whites : one talked at a time, and the others 
listened attentively until he was done. It pleases them greatly 
for a white man to smoke with them. 

As to the object of this council I could get no clew, except 
that it seemed to concern the internal policy of their tribal gov¬ 
ernment. Well may they counsel together about their munici¬ 
pal affairs and seek to perpetuate their short-lived power, but 
their doom is as certainly sealed as that civilization will triumph 
over barbarism. It is only a question of time, and only a brief 
time at that. What has become of those numerous and power¬ 
ful tribes formerly occupying the eastern slopes of the continent 
along the Atlantic seaboard—the Pequods of the Connecticut 
River, the Narragansetts who had their home on the shores of 
the magnificent bay that bears their name ? Gone, all gone, like 
a dream of the night, more than a hundred years ago! Where 
are the Iroquois, the Oneidas, the Tuscaroras, the Senecas, the 
Hurons, the Mohawks, and all those different tribes that formed 
that powerful combination known as the confederacy ol the 
u Six Nations ? ” They have melted away. Where are the Al- 
gonquins, who roamed from the Canadas to the Carolinas and 
were the largest of the eight great Indian families east of the 
Mississippi River ? 

The Capitol of the United States now rises in grand propor¬ 
tions where once stood the Indian’s wigwam, and its dome pierces 
the same sky that overarched his villages and his hunting- 
grounds. Tie once roamed along the Potomac and the Gliesa- 
peake, even to the far-distant shores of Massachusetts and 
Maine, now the seat of our highest civilization, just as the 


42 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


Crows and the Sioux traverse the Yellowstone and the Gallatin. 
And, like the Algonquins, these too will melt away and be for¬ 
gotten. One fate awaits them all. They have a common na¬ 
ture, a common history, and await a common oblivion. But 
let us do our duty toward them while they are here. 


CHAPTER Y. 


Up the Yellowstone alone.—Meeting Indians.—Immigrant Gulch.—Wild Mountains. 
—Frontier Christians.—The Irrepressible Itinerant Preacher.—Cinnabar Moun¬ 
tain.—Devil’s Slide. 


After spending several days at the Crow Agency studying 
Indian character and customs, I returned to the Springs and pre¬ 
pared to pursue my journey up the Yellowstone. The morning 
of August 21st I hade adieu to my hospitable friend Dr. Hunter, 
and turned my face westward to find my way alone and on horse¬ 
back up the Yellowstone to Mammoth Springs, or, in the failure 
to do that, to return to Bozeman. Hearing that the Crows were 
in large numbers at the crossing of Shields River, I was quite 
surprised on reaching the river to find neither lodges nor Indians. 
The indistinct trail that I was following, the wildness of the 
scenery, and the thought of the deeds of blood and death com¬ 
mitted in sight of the bluffs under the shadow of which I was 
passing, gave me a little qualmish feeling about the heart, and 
fired my imagination almost to the point of peopling the quiet, 
lonely solitude with lurking savages and frightful hobgoblins. 
The fact that the Sioux and Blackfeet were known to be skulk¬ 
ing in the vicinity did not increase my security or courage. 

With visions of painted savages floating before me, when 

about half-way across the little valley, upon looking up the stream 

to my right, what should I see but six of these denizens of the 

wilderness all mounted and armed, who, seemingly, had risen up 
4 


44 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


out of the ground, coming in sight so suddenly, and making 
directly for me! My feelings can better be imagined than ex¬ 
pressed. I knew not whether they were Crows or scouts of an¬ 
other tribe. Finding, however, that I could not avoid them, 
and keeping my eyes open, and my fire-arms in convenient posi¬ 
tion, ready for the slightest suspicious movement on their part, 
with all the self-composure I could command, I awaited their 
approach. I found them to be a party of Crows, one of whom 
had known me at the agency. After a short powwow, mostly 
by signs, and after giving the young chief a fish-hook and line 
for his papoose, we parted on good terms, the last one giving 
me his hand, with the usual “ How ” in token of friendship. On 
my way up the river I met large numbers of them breaking up 
camp and moving toward the buffalo-country for their fall hunt. 
They had large numbers of horses, many of which were packed 
with their camp-equipage, and men, women, and children, were 
all mounted. They fasten one end of their lodge-poles to the 
side of the pack-horse, the other end dragging on the ground, 
making altogether quite a procession as they move along. 

I determined to go directly to the Mammoth Hot Springs, 
where I hoped to meet a party of friends with whom I expected 
to make a trip to the Geysers; so I continued up the west bank 
of the river, with Indians on every hand, passing through a 
rugged, gloomy canon, overtaking, during the day, a large party 
of prospecters on their way to the head of Clarke’s Fork, where 
it was reported that rich gold-mines had recently been discovered. 
Shortly after dark, just as a threatening thunder-cloud and rain¬ 
storm were approaching, I heard the barking of a watcli-dog, and, 
observing a glimmering light, rode to it in haste, where I was 
offered shelter in a humble cabin with a kind family. I turned 
my horse upon the range, and soon found repose in slumber, for 
which a lonely ride of fifty miles had given me a relish. 


MOUNTAIN-GROUPS. 


4fc6 

Above the canon through which we passed is a valley ex¬ 
tending up the river to what is known as the Second Canon of 
the Yellowstone, fifteen miles distant, and which is from one to 
three miles wide. Like nearly all of these mountain-valleys, it 
presents the appearance of having been covered with water. 
Owing to the numerous beds of small bowlders lying at or near 
the surface, it cannot be brought fully under cultivation, though 
there are several choice ranches located in favored spots here 
and there, producing the cereals and vegetables of a fine quali¬ 
ty adapted to this climate. However, it furnishes excellent 
stock-range, and thousands of head of cattle and horses were 
grazing in the vicinity. Across the river to the east in a deep 
gorge, called Immigrant Gulch, is a mining-camp—one of the 
first discovered in the Territory—containing fifty or seventy- 
five men, who make from two dollars and a half to ten dollars 
per day, and are now busily engaged removing huge bowlders 
and sluicing away great banks of earth and gravel in search of 
the precious metal deposited there in ages that are past and 
gone. 

The mountains here show abundant evidence of volcanic 
action, are rugged and lofty, their summits mantled with per¬ 
petual snow, giving the scenery quite an interesting and pictu¬ 
resque appearance. Just over there to the east, promiscuously 
grouped together, is a cluster of cone-shaped peaks, their sides 
partly darkened with timber for a distance, and carved, by 
aqueous forces long acting upon them, into dark and gloomy 
gorges where the sun scarcely ever penetrates, and rising like 
wonderful pyramids into the heavens, their cloud-bathed sum¬ 
mits towering far beyond the timber-line to an altitude of thou- 
sands of feet, and which are visible for many miles in every 
direction. T'hey form part of a range that extends for many 
miles, from north to south, on that side of the Yellowstone. 


46 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


The altitude of the valley here is between five and six thousand 
feet, and the summit of the range about ten thousand, above 
sea-level. 

Contrary to expectation, I found about ten families scattered 
along the valley, some farming, some gardening, others making 
butter and cheese, wdiile many were simply watching their 
herds as they grazed in safety upon the rich meadows. Among 
them were a number of families late from Oregon with their 
cattle and horses, only waiting anxiously for the Lower Yellow¬ 
stone to be opened for settlement. The fame of this country 
has gone far and wide, and it will doubtless be settled rapidly 
when the roving bands of Indians are removed, or it is thought 
safe to venture there. 

Little was I expecting to find any religious people, much 
less members of our own Church, away here in this wilderness; 
but the events of the day show that I was to be happily dis¬ 
appointed. Learning from the hostess at the breakfast-table 
that there was a religious family living on the road, who it was 
thought were Methodists, I determined, if possible, to find them, 
even if I could not stop long with them. And rest assured, 
when a Methodist preacher, who has had some experience in 
traveling over the prairies and mountains of the frontier, hunt¬ 
ing up and gathering together the scattered flocks, once gets 
upon the track of a Methodist family, long must be the distance 
and dim the trail, if he is not sure of the object of his search 1 
And happy always is the meeting—perhaps in the rude cabin 
or open tent—and cordial the greeting when the weary itinerant 
meets with such people. The long distance, the difficult path, 
the rugged mountains crossed, or rapid streams forded, all are 
soon forgotten in the refreshing conversation, the family wor¬ 
ship, and the generous hospitality extended to him. 

It threatened rain, yet I set forward, and on meeting a man 


A MOUNTAIN SETTLER. 


47 


in the road I asked, “ Can you tell me where Mr. Strickland 
lives? ” 

“ Yes, sir; that is my name,” he replied. 

“ Pardon my boldness,” said I, “ but I have been informed 
that you are a Christian man. Am I correct ? ” 

“ Well, sir, I am trying to be a Christian, though fear that 
I am quite an unworthy one.” 

“ May I ask if you are a Methodist ? ” 

“ I belonged to that Church in Oregon, sir,” responded the 
somewhat astonished man, wondering all the time who his in¬ 
quisitor could be. 

Confident that he was the man I was looking for, and feeling 
free to make myself known, I remarked, “ I am a Methodist 
minister, and am always happy to meet with Christian people, 
especially away here in this wilderness.” His eyes fairly 
sparkled as he took my hand and grasped it only as a man could 
under such circumstances, which was followed by many expres¬ 
sions of joy that came from a warm and happy heart. Then 
came the invitation—shall I say coniTnand , for he spoke as one 
having authority ?—to stop at u the cabin,” just a mile above. I 
was not disposed to reluse, as by this time the clouds were 
growing heavy and the rain beginning to come down. My re¬ 
ception by the good ladv of the house was no less cordial, ano. 
soon in the small, rude cabin of these mountaineers I felt quite 
at home and among kind friends, though but a short time before 
I thought I was indeed a stranger in a strange land, in a wild 
mou n tai n-cou n t ry. 

Soon it be^an to rain in earnest, and a large party of tour- 
ists on their way to the National Park, who were o"\ei taken in 
the storm, made their arrival. They were right from the me¬ 
tropolis, and had not fully doffed the attire and conventionali¬ 
ties of city life. They were quite unprepared for such a storm, 


48 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


and it was amusing to see them coming in—old people and 
young, fashionable gentlemen and fair young belles, on horseback 
and in buggies, but all eager to find shelter in the hospitable 
but already crowded cabin, which contained only one apartment. 
Some were wet, some dry, others frightened and excited, while 
more than one of the party enjoyed the ludicrous scene. The 
mother was much worried lest her darling daughters should get 
a drop of rain upon them ; she knew that they would catch their 
death of cold, and heartily wished they were all back at home. 
Frilled and fluted aristocracy may shine and shimmer under the 
gas-light of the city, but may come to grief amid the wild won¬ 
ders of the West. It was royal fun for the mischievous young 
brother, who enjoyed such adventures and delighted to tease his 
“ big sisters.” The little cabin was crowded, though I have 
never seen a pioneer’s cabin entirely full. Like a stage-coach, 
it seems to have the happy quality of always containing room 
for one more. A cheerful fire, however, and a good dinner, to¬ 
gether with the repartee that flowed freely, refreshed the spirits 
of all until the rain ceased, and made it an occasion not to be 
forgotten. 

I found warm friends here, who were from different parts of 
the States, and whose hospitality I was compelled to share. 
Some of them had not yet erected houses, but were living in 
tents ; though this renders hospitality no less cordial, or social 
intercourse less refreshing. 

There is a noble-hearted generosity and a freedom from af¬ 
fectation and useless ceremony among these hardy frontiersmen 
that more than make up for the lack of all the conveniences 
of a more civilized life. 

What a time of refreshing it was to all present, as that even¬ 
ing in the dusky twilight we gathered around the bright camp¬ 
fire in front of the tent for family worship! We read a lesson 


VIEW OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 


49 


from the well-worn family Bible by the cheerful fire-light, 
joined in singing an old familiar air, and then bowed upon the 
earth, with the starry canopy spread out in beauty above us, and 
worshiped the God of our fathers and mothers, and invoked 
his blessings upon us, and his presence with us while exposed to 
the dangers and hardships of a frontier life. How vividly were 
the scenes and associations of other days called up! It was a 
solemn, joyous occasion, and a purer faith was kindled in many 
hearts. Well mio-lit we sing;: 

“ Blest be the tie that binds 

Our hearts in Christian love ; 

The fellowship of kindred minds 
Is like to that above. 

“ Before our Father’s throne 

We pour our ardent prayers ! 

Our fears, our hopes, our aims are one, 

Our comforts and our cares.’’ 

My wants being anticipated, and as far as possible supplied, 
and promising to stop as I returned, I continued my journey up 
the valley toward the springs, thirty-five miles distant, where 
we enter the grounds of the National Park. At the head of 
this valley the road leads through another canon on the 1 el- 
lowstone, whose rugged granite walls rise up more than a thou¬ 
sand feet on either side, and the turbid river, compressed to half 
its natural width, rushes madly through the narrow gorge far 
below. The road crosses a lofty mountain-spur, passing near 
the frightful chasm, from which point a splendid view can be 
obtained. The bright-green color of the water ; the numerous 
ripples upon the surface capped with foam, washing the place 
where the waves in their madness had dashed against the huge 
bowlders that had fallen from the walls above; the almost deaf¬ 
ening sound of the roaring, rushing torrent, dashing recklessly 


50 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


on like madness itself infuriated; and, besides this, the majestic 
appearance of the huge rocks piled up on either side to such a 
stupendous height—all make it a scene strangely impressive and 
inspiring to behold. 

Until recently there was nothing but a bridle-path leading 
through this gorge, and the traveler was compelled to use great 
care lest his animal, making but a slight misstep, lose his equi¬ 
librium, precipitating him down the fearful chasm to be dashed 
against the bowlders or thrown into the turbulent waters. How¬ 
ever, most of the tourists would be suddenly seized with a mania 
for walking just here. An unlucky pack-horse did lose his bal¬ 
ance, rolling over and over, many feet down the mountain, and 
would have lost his life but for a friendly feather-bed that was 
lashed upon his back, which intervened between him and the 
last rugged bowlder. Such events often happen with packers in 
the mountains, and frequently prove fatal. A passable wagon- 
road, however, has been constructed along here now, and ex¬ 
tends to the springs. 

Passing up the river, about ten miles farther on is what is 
known as Cinnabar Mountain, the red substance coloring the 
sides, once thought to be the mineral of this name, showing quite 
plainly from the road. Near this is observed a wonderful freak 
of Nature quite similar to a peculiar formation in Weber Canon 
on the Union Pacific Railroad, known as “ The Devil’s Slide.” 
This also has taken the same name, though the one in the 
Weber dwindles to insignificance compared with this one. Al¬ 
though it is some distance from the road, yet curiosity led us to 
a closer inspection of this wonderful phenomenon. Numerous 
ledges of rock, with their ragged edges extending many feet 
above the surface, traverse the ridge—a spur of the principal 
range—but the centre of attraction consists of two parallel walls 
about twenty feet thick, with a space of twenty or thirty feet 


SINGULAR WALLS. 


51 


between them, extending vertically from the base to the summit 
of the mountain, projecting upward to a height of more than 
two hundred feet above the surface for a distance of fifteen hun¬ 
dred feet. Their smooth sides, equal height, and erect posture, 
but for their magnitude, would at lirst lead you to believe this 
wonderful formation to be the work of human hands. The rock 
and earth between the ledges have been worn away by the ele¬ 
ments, leaving these immense walls so different from anything 
around them. Considering the process of their formation, the 
wonderful forces required to throw them into their present po¬ 
sition and form, the centuries of ceaseless and untiring labor of 
the elements dressing and clearing away the rubbish, they stand 
as monuments of the power of Him who can do all things, and 
as objects always calculated to attract the attention and excite 
the wonder and admiration of the curious traveler. 


CHAPTER VI. 


A Party of Tourists.—Mountain Transportation.—“Roughing it.”—Personal Narra¬ 
tive.—Mammoth Hot Springs.—The Natural Wonder and Beauty of the West. 

On my way lip the river I fell in with a very pleasant party,, 
consisting of Major Walker and family; Mr. t). H. Fisk, one of 
the proprietors of the Helena Herald / and Judge Synames, of 
the legal fraternity. The party had quite an elaborate outfit for 
traveling and camping, and were enjoying the trip. They were 
finely mounted and could travel with speed, but the wagons 
could not always come up in time for lodging and meals. Such 
events, so common in the mountains, brought them into great 
straits, and sometimes taxed their ingenuity to meet the exi¬ 
gencies of the occasion. Before reaching the Mammoth Springs 
they had to exchange their wagons for pack-animals. This is 
a method of transportation across mountains and through canons 
where wagons cannot go. The pack-saddle is made much like 
a “ saw-buck,” with horns sticking up at the four corners to lash 
the loading to. When the load is all on the animal’s back a 
rope is securely lashed about it and fastened by an ingenious 
loop known as the “ diamond-hitch.” In this way all kinds 
of goods are transported across rugged mountains, turbulent 
streams, and trackless deserts and forests. The noble animals 
are soon trained and get well up to their business, avoiding con¬ 
tact with jutting rocks and trees, walking with the utmost cau- 


WHITE MOUNTAIN, MAMMOTH SPRINGS. 




























































































































































































































































































































MOUNTAIN TRANSPORTATION. 


53 


tion over dangerous precipices where a single misstep would 
prove disastrous. They will sometimes walk a log—with the 
top side flattened—across a chasm as steadily and safely as a 
man ! Before they become trained they do not always bring 
their load into camp " right side up with care.” If the pack is 
insecurely fastened and careens to one side, the animal seems to 
grow indignant at his master’s carelessness, and goes through the 
gymnastic exercise known as “ bucking,” seldom satisfied while 
anything remains upon his back. Sometimes a misstep on a 
mountain-side hurls him over the rocks and down into a cavern 
below, possibly landing him in a rushing, roaring torrent. Near 
the Springs Major Walker s party were packing a little mule on 


the mountain-side, in which process the ladies were taking a live¬ 
ly interest. The little fellow was not accustomed to this kind 
of service, and just as the great bulky load was lashed on his 
back he lost his balance and away he went rolling over and over 


down the mountain until he reached the bottom of the slope. 
Being uninjured he regained his feet and climbed up again to 
the point of departure, much to the delight of the young ladies, 
who, possibly, were more concerned for their wardrobes than the 
little mule. 

The party mounted and rode across the mountains to the 
Springs, but their baggage did not come up until the next day. 
They had to borrow blankets and seek “ tired nature’s sweet re¬ 
storer” in quite primitive style. But the hardy tourists already 
here shared their rude accommodations with them, and the en¬ 
tire party enjoyed “ roughing it.” 

While our friends are here at the Springs, we resume our 
personal narrative. 

After a ride of twelve miles up the west bank of the Yellow¬ 
stone, crossing several rugged little streams which come dashing 
down from the snowy heights, and passing miles of sterile coun- 


54 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND 


try covered with bowlders and sage-brush, interspersed here and 
there with low grassy valleys and little lakelets swarming with 
water-fowl, I reached the mouth of Gardiner's River coming 
in from the southwest, a bold, turbid stream, two-thirds the size 
of the Yellowstone, in its course leaping over fearful chasms 
and roaring through gloomy gorges cut in volcanic rocks. Its 
whirlpools and eddies swarm with beautiful trout. Here the 
lover of Nature can find much in mountain, river, and valley, to 
arrest his attention and excite his admiration, while the pleasure- 
seeker would fain linger at the river-side taking the speckled 
beauties with hook-and-line. 

Following the trail up the west side of this stream, ascending 
a succession of plateaus and ridges until the summit of a moun¬ 
tain-spur is gained, several hundred feet above the river, I 
came suddenly out in full view of the far-famed Hot Springs. 
Having read glowing descriptions of the place, and being 
rather despondent from the fatigue of travel, I felt somewhat 
disappointed, and feared my expectations would not be fully 
met; but all such impressions vanished at first view of the 
strangelv-beautiful scene, and I felt that the half had not been 
told, though the sun was obscured by clouds, depriving me of 
much of the inspiration that the first view would otherwise have 
furnished. 

The proprietors of the place, two young gentlemen from 
Bozeman, anticipating the value of these springs as a place 
of resort for pleasure-seekers and invalids, had taken posses¬ 
sion of them before the passage of the bill including them in 
the National Park, and styled them the Mammoth Hot Springs. 
But Dr. Hayden, the United States Geologist, doubtless moved 
by the first impression made upon his mind on arriving here, 
gave them the title of White Mountain Hot Springs. Both 
titles are quite appropriate, considering their mammoth propor^ 


HOT SPRINGS. 


55 


tions—surpassing anything of the kind yet discovered—and the 
vast mountain of white and yellowish deposit made from the 
mineral solutions contained in the immense volumes of water 
gurgling up from scores of boiling fountains. This immense 
calcareous formation, with its numberless and intricate phenom¬ 
ena, baffling all attempts at description, is the chief object of 
interest here. The first impression on beholding it is that of a 
snowy mountain beautifully terraced, with projections extend¬ 
ing out in various directions, resembling frozen cascades, as 
though the high, foam-crested waves, in their rapid descent 
over the steep and rugged declivity, were suddenly arrested and 
congealed on the spot in all their native beauty. There are fifty 
or sixty of these springs of greater and smaller dimensions, ex¬ 
tending over an area of about a mile square ; though there are 
remains of springs of the same kind for miles around, and moun¬ 
tains of the same deposit overgrown with pine-trees, perhaps 
hundreds of years old. Most of the water is at boiling heat, 
and contains in solution a great amount of lime, sulphur, 
and magnesia, with some soda, alumina, and other substances, 
which are slowly deposited in every conceivable form and 
shape as the water flows along in its course down the moun¬ 
tain-side. 

On each level, or terrace, there is a large central spring, 
which is usually surrounded by a basin of several feet in di¬ 
ameter, and the water, after leaving the main basin at different 
portions of the delicately-wrought rim, flows down the decliv¬ 
ity, step by step, forming hundreds of basins and reservoirs of 
every size and depth, from a few inches to six or eight feet in 
diameter, and from one inch to several feet in depth, their 
margins beautifully scalloped with a finish resembling bead-work 
of exquisite beauty. The character of the formation depends 
upon the temperature and flow of the water, as well as upon 


56 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


the character of prevailing minerals at that particular place. 
Where the water tiows slowly, and with but slight ebullition, 
the smaller basins and terraces are formed, one below the other, 
with their delicate partitions and beautifully-fringed borders; 
and where the volume and momentum are greater, the basins 
are larger and deeper, and the ornamentation proportionately 
coarser. Where the water Hows quite rapidly, the pools are 
tilling up, leaving the deposit in wave-like forms, just like water 
congealed when flowing over a cascade. Underneath the sides 
of many of the basins are beautifully-arranged stalactites, 
formed by the dripping of the water ; and, by digging beneath 
the surface at places where the springs are inactive, the most 
delicate and charming specimens of every character and form 
can be obtained—stalactites, stalagmites, grottoes, etc., all deli¬ 
cately arranged as the water filtrates through the crevices and 
perforations of the deposit. The larger pools, before the erec¬ 
tion of bathing-houses, afforded a splendid opportunity to enjoy 
the luxury of bathing, as water of any temperature desirable 
could be secured. The sides of the mountain for hundreds of 
vards in extent are covered with this calcareous incrustation, for- 
merly possessing all the ornamental attractions of the springs 
now in action. It is a scene sublime in itself to see the entire 
area with its numerous and terraced reservoirs, and millions of 
delicate little urns, sparkling with water transparent as glass, 
and tinged with many varieties of coloring, all glistening under 
the glare of a noonday sun. But the water is constantly 
changing its channel, and atmospheric agencies have disfigured 
much of the work, leaving a great portion of it only the resem¬ 
blance of an old ruin. 

Every active spring or cluster of springs has its succession 
of little urns and reservoirs extending in various directions. 
The largest spring now active, situated about half-way up the 


CALCAREOUS FORMATIONS. 


57 


mountain on the outer edge of the main terrace, has a basin 
about twenty-five by forty feet in diameter, in the centre of 
which the water boils up several inches above the surface, and 
is so transparent that you can, by approaching the margin, look 
down into the heated depths many feet below the surface. The 
sides of the cavern are ornamented with a coral-like formation 
of almost every variety of shade, with a line, silky substance, 
much like moss, of a bright vegetable green, spread over it 
thinly, which, with the slight ebullition of the water keeping it 
in constant motion, and the blue sky reflected in the transparent 
depths, gives it an enchanting beauty far beyond the skill of 
the finest artist. Here all the hues of the rainbow are seen 
and arranged so gorgeously that, with other strange views by 
which one is surrounded, you almost imagine yourself in some 
fairy region, the wonders of which baffle all attempts of pen 
or pencil to portray them. 

Besides the elegant sculpturing of this deposit, imagine, if 
you can, the wonderful variety of delicate and artistically-ar¬ 
ranged colors with which it is adorned. The mineral-charged 
fluid lays down pavements here and there of all the shades of 
red, from bright scarlet to rose-tint, beautiful layers of bright 
sulphur-yellow, interspersed with tints of green—all elaborately 
arranged in Nature’s own order. Viewed from the Tower 
Creek trail, which passes at the base, this section of the moun¬ 
tain has a very architectural appearance. 

But descending the mountain from which we first beheld 
the springs, and where we left the reader, we come to the first 
level, or terrace, the base of the principal formation. There are 
several springs, the water of which is used by the scores of in¬ 
valids already flocking here to be healed of their maladies. 
Here, also, are the small bath-houses erected by the proprietors, 
for the use of which a handsome sum is generally exacted. The 


58 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


medicinal properties of each fountain seem to be different, and 
the invalid can use that best adapted to his case. Just over 
there to our right, in the mouth of a little gorge, coming down 
from the mountain, by the side of the sparkling brook of snow¬ 
water, among the pine-trees, where the smoke is curling up from 
many tires, are the camps of the tourists and invalids who have 
come hither, and are abiding in rudely-constructed cabins, some 
in tents, enjoying all the luxuries of camp-life. Rather a mot¬ 
ley, though quite a lively, group. Some remarkable cures have 
been effected here, mostly of diseases of the skin, and rheuma¬ 
tism. But I think that the invigorating mountain-air and the 
healthful influence of camp-life have much to do with many 
cures that are effected, as these are known to be wonderful rem¬ 
edies in themselves for many of the ills which flesh is heir to. 

Here we found many of our friends, who received us kindly, 
and, with our genial friend AY. H. Risk acting as guide and 
traveling companion, we start out to make the rounds. The 
first object that excites our curiosity is an old chimney or crater 
on the first level, composed of the same material abounding 
here, which some think is the remains of an extinct geyser; 
though I am inclined to think it was formed by the constant 
flowing of the water along a certain channel, creeping through 
this one aperture, forming the deposit around it, raising it high¬ 
er and higher until the summit of the crater was on a level 
with the source of that particular fountain, or the fountain was 
bv other means turned from its course. It is quite remarkable, 
is about twenty feet in diameter, and fifty feet high. The top 
is shaped like a cone, and on the summit is a funnel-shaped 
crater. The outward crust resembles the layers of a thatched 
roof, caused by the flow of the mineral-charged water down the 
sides. It is called “ Liberty-Cap/'' There are a number of these 
craters of smaller dimensions, on the rim of the next terrace 


59 


THE “ DEVIL’S KITCHEN.” 

above, one of which is styled the u Beehive,” which was built 

in the same manner. 

« 

As we continue up the mountain, over the remains of inac¬ 
tive springs, we find ourselves wading through beds of magnesia 
nearly as line as flour, and traversing places where almost pure 
pulverized sulphur could be obtained in wagon-loads. Full of 
curiosity, we applied a match to a bank of it, and found that it 
would burn freely, but fearing the consequences, and having 
an antipathy for lire and brimstone anyhow, we made haste to 
extinguish it. 

The formation abounds in crevices and fissures, caused, per¬ 
haps, by the settling of the deposit, forcing the springs often to 
change their channel. Farther back on the mountain are sev¬ 
eral oblong mounds which invariably contain fissures, through the 
centres of which are often found delicate crystals of sulphur of 
rare beauty, formed by the steam and gases emitted from the 
seething caldrons below. 

Certain portions of the mountain also abound in caverns 
which were once the scene of boiling reservoirs. One of these 
has been partly explored, and is known as the “Devil's Kitch¬ 
en ; ” but, meeting at the entrance a volume of the warm, 
sickening atmosphere, I desisted from further explorations. 
Tt was a gloomy, dismal place, and we could see little bats 
flitting to and fro, after the stones that we dropped in. In 
one of these caverns I saw the skeleton of a young deer or 
elk, which, in its playful gambols, had gone too near and lallen 
in and perished. 

As one first enters the locality of these thermal activities, 
he hesitates to venture near the margin ol the springs; but, 
finding it generally solid, he soon becomes emboldened, and is 
in danger of growing too reckless, and may venture too far. 
At one place we could hear the internal rumbling of the trou- 


60 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


bled waters rushing along right beneath our feet; and, remem¬ 
bering an opening we had seen in the crust in a dry place where 
a man had fallen in, we almost shuddered as we thought of the 
fatal results of a break through here. On one occasion, in com¬ 
pany with a friend, while taking a horseback-ride, we ventured 
upon what we thought to be a solid bed, but what proved to be 
a treacherous formation, when my friend’s horse broke through, 
burying him up to his sides in what proved to be a bed of dry 
pulverized magnesia. After a few flounders, horse and rider 
were again on terra firma, and we continued our journey. 

The stalactites, and various ornamentations found about the 
little reservoirs, under the surface, and in the caves and fissures, 
make beautiful specimens for a cabinet, and have been carried 
away in vast quantities, though it is forbidden now, as it dis¬ 
figures the work so much. Beautiful specimens are also ob¬ 
tained by placing little baskets, frames, and other objects of 
mechanical genius in the water, where in a short time they be¬ 
come incased in a snow-white crust of rare beauty. 

The physical causes at work in this region are truly wonder¬ 
ful. Where the vast amount of material comes from, how it 
is decomposed, brought hither and arranged in the ten thousand 
wonderful forms it has taken, and how long this work has been 
in progress, are questions that arise in the mind, but which we 
leave for others to discuss. Just below the large spring above 
described is a grove of good-sized pines nearly buried in the 
sediment, while back of this, up the mountain-side where abound 
the caves and fissures we mentioned above, not a half-mile 
away, are trees a hundred years old, growing on the same for¬ 
mation. Known unto the Great Architect, and to him only, are 
all his works. His ways are past finding out. 

This place is now visited every year by hundreds of people. 
There was no hotel when we were there, though the gentlemanly 


HOUSES AT THE HOT SPRINGS. 


61 


proprietors will do all they can for the comfort and pleasure of 
their visitors. As lumber had to be sawed at first with a whip¬ 
saw, houses are scarce. I preached on Sunday to a clever and 
very attentive audience, who seemed to appreciate the services. 
However, pleasure-resorts are not the most favorable places to 
make religious impressions. 


CHAPTER VII. 


The National Park.—Tower Falls.—Old Castles.—Bold Adventure.—Devil’s Hoof.— 

Rare Jewels.—Petrifaction. 

The Mammoth Springs are seventy miles from Bozeman, 
and just across the line in Wyoming Territory, in the north¬ 
eastern corner of the National Park. A recent act of Congress 
set apart and dedicated a vast area of this marvelous country, 
fifty-five by sixty-five miles in extent, embracing the sources of 
the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and the Snake Rivers, as a na¬ 
tional park. The conception was a happy one, and the wisdom 
of the Government in thus providing for the curiosity-hunters 
and the lovers of the wonderful will be appreciated by all the 
generations to come. No country in the world of the same ex¬ 
tent contains half the natural Curiosities or one tithe the won¬ 
derful freaks and marvelous formations of Nature which excite 
to so large a degree the admiration and wonder of the savage 
and the savant , the unlettered and the learned. Its mountains 
are higher and bolder ; its gorges are deeper and darker, its 
canons grander and gloomier, its cataracts more beautiful, its 
scenery sublimer, its volcanic phenomena more marvelous, its 
geysers more numerous and grander, and its contrasts and charac¬ 
teristics more varied and vivid, than can be found in any other 
quarter of the globe. Even now the health and pleasure seek¬ 
ers of the Great West gravitate toward the National Park, in 


TRAVELING IN THE NATIONAL PARK. 


63 


which wheels are a nuisance and pack-animals are in demand. 
Already quite a thriving business is done by packmen who keep 
a supply of pack mules and horses on hand for the accommoda¬ 
tion of tourists. It is surprising how much these pack-animals 
can carry, and with what dexterity they can be loaded and un¬ 
loaded. The packmen also act as guides, and for the twofold 
service they demand good wages. This mode of traveling be¬ 
comes quite fascinating and exhilarating when one gets accus¬ 
tomed to it, and the round trip is made delightful and profitable, 
as well as heathful. 

The journey through the National Park will well repay the 
philosopher and the scientist, as well as the mere wmnder-seek- 
ing tourist. The marvelous freaks and phenomena of Nature 
scattered over this area await the solutions of science and the 
revelations of philosophy. 

All things ready, I started on Monday, August 25th, alone, 
expecting soon to rejoin the party who had started the evening 
before. Crossing Gardiner's River and following up the east 
fork, I passed a beautiful cascade to the right and a high moun¬ 
tain on the left, its sides ribbed with huge basaltic columns 
standing boldly and grandly up to view. Following the intri¬ 
cate meanderings of the trail, and passing the place where my 
party had camped, I soon came out into an undulating prairie- 
country, abounding with rich grass, lovely flowers, and dotted 
with frequent groves of pine and aspen covered with rich foli¬ 
age, with now and then a delightful little lakelet nestled be- 
tween the mountains. But here, alas ! with all my caution, I 
lost the trail, and, bearing too far to the right, wandered in 
anxious solicitude, very much disliking the prospect of spending 
a night alone in this wild solitude without food or shelter, and 
with nothing but the wild beasts of the forest for companions. 
But hurrying forward in the general course over mountain and 


64 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


valley, I soon struck a trail, though not positive that it was the 
right one; and just before nightfall, and as a dark, threatening 
thunder-cloud was fast gathering overhead, to my great relief 
I beheld, from the verge of a lofty precipice—where I had 
climbed to gain a momentary view of a peculiar freak of Nature 
in a gorge below—the smoke from the camp-fires curling up 
through the tops of the pines in a little grove on the opposite 
side of Tower Creek, where the party had camped for the night. 

Here a rugged, swiftly-running little stream, dashing along 
over huge bowlders, and environed by rugged, dismal walls, 
comes down from a high ridge to the west, through a gloomy 
gorge made more dismal by the dense, overshadowing pines. 
Only*a few hundred yards before its entrance into the Yellow¬ 
stone, as if jubilant at the prospective release from its prison- 
walls, at one bound it leaps over a perpendicular precipice of 
one hundred and fiftv-six feet, making one of the most beau- 
tiful little waterfalls I had ever beheld. It is called Tower 
Falls. The softer substances on the sides of the canon are worn 
away by the elements, leaving numberless columns of volcanic 
breccia of every size and form, from ten to fifty feet high, 
standing like old castles and lofty towers, or sending up their 
slender forms like domes of churches or the spiral minarets of 
heathen temples. One is carried back to the days of chivalry 
and knighthood, and imagines that before him is the lordly 
castle of some ancient hero, now robbed of its beauty and glory 
by the ruthless elements and the ravages of time, with these 
immense columns standing as sentinels guarding the sacredness 
of the place. 

The many bright, blending colors—all the shades of red, 
brown, yellow, and green—with which the rock-walls of the 
canon and the shelly columns are decked, and the numerous 
fantastic shapes of the capricious formations, together with the 



TOWER FALLS 





















TOWER FALLS. 


65 


noise of the rushing waters, make this an interesting place, and 
the traveler is tempted to make a longer stay and a closer in¬ 
spection of its blended beauties. On either side of the falls are 
two of these immense towers, standing like pillars at the gates 
of a walled city, or columns at the entrance of some grand ca¬ 
thedral, the crystal waters bounding between them, and spread¬ 
ing out below like a sheet of silvery vapor. With some exer¬ 
tion, I scrambled out to the narrow, crumbling summit of one of 
these shelly columns and gazed into the foaming chasm full two 
hundred and fifty feet below, which feat requires a steady head 
and no little nerve, but amply compensates for the labori¬ 
ous effort. From the mouth of the stream I also, with some 
difficulty, ascended the gloomy gorge, filled with fallen trees 
and enormous bowlders, against which the mad waves dashed 
with foaming fury, until I stood at the very foot of the fall,, 
where my clothes were soon moistened by the rising spray, and 
obtained a view of the scene that was far more imposing and 
beautiful. Near the cataract is a huge mass of debris, doubtless 
precipitated from the walls above. It was a clear, calm, sum¬ 
mer afternoon; the sun was dropping behind the tall pines on 
the western mountain, and the rising shadows reminding us 
of the close of day. Inspired by the surroundings, I lingered 
long in that retired chamber alone, meditating upon the wonder¬ 
ful works of Nature; and as I watched the water descending 
in jets and crystal showers, and listened to its hushed murmur, 
subdued to softness by the overhanging cliffs and towering 
pines, I could but admire the modestly beautiful little cataract 
hid away in this lonely yet lovely solitude, where it would not oe 
observed bv the curious hundreds passing near, and I returned 
to camp feeling myself a better man, and meditating upon the 
greatness, wisdom, and goodness of Nature’s God. 

From the bank of the river near this place we have a good 


66 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


view of the mouth of Grand Canon. On the sides of the walls 
are evidences of the existence of a strong sulphurous compound, 
and the canon has a bright-yellow tinge. Also, at various 
Tooints along the bank, small springs of sulplmr-water ooze out 
from the wall, giving olf a bubbling, frying sound, and tilling the 
air in the vicinity with an offensive sulphurous odor. Observ¬ 
ing the bubbling in a channel of a stream of cold water, curi¬ 
osity tempted me to test the temperature by immersing my 
hand, for which foolish act I was severely punished, it being 
at boiling heat, though surrounded by cold water and coming 
up right through it. 

One of the singular formations near Tower Falls, owing to 
its fancied resemblance, I suppose, to the historic u cloven foot,” 
has been called “ Devil’s Hoof,” while the dismal gorge above, 
for miles reminding one so forcibly of the land of darkness, 
is known as the “ Devil’s Den.” It is remarkable that so many 
of the curious freaks of Nature in the mountains are dedicated 
to some part of the person or dominion of that distinguished in¬ 
dividual, though partly accounted for in the fact that many of 
these startling appellations were suggested by the old moun¬ 
taineers and trappers who first explored these regions, and who 
were familiar with, and quite lavish in the use of, such titles. 
Every oddly-formed rock or mound, every river, gorge, and 
glen, having even a fancied likeness to the hideous person whom 
they had been taught from their infancy to dread, and the 
regions which they had been warn.ed to shun, received a name 
fully indicative of the diabolism symbolized. Such a country 
as this is surely quite suggestive to such minds, and it appears 
that in many instances the late explorers have followed suit. 

AY e now enter a region abounding in precious stones of 
various kinds, such as agates, amethysts, sardonyx, chalcedony, 
malachite, etc. Here, also, are quantities of silicified, petrified, 


SPECIMEN MOUNTAIN —GAME. 


67' 


and agatized wood, some of which is very line and quite won¬ 
derful. There are some instances of perfectly-formed standing 
trees of pure petrifaction. But the best place for securing 
specimens is at Specimen Mountain, some ten miles east of here, 
where many varieties of precious and beautifully-formed stones 
have been found. At that place there are great masses, much 
resembling the trunks and limbs of trees, the outside of which 
is almost pure agate, interspersed with well-dehned marks like 
the rings of growth in a tree, while the inside (they being hol¬ 
low) is beautifully lined with diamond-shaped crystals, some 
clear, and others tinted with a bright-purple hue. I saw many 
of the specimens, which are remarkably beautiful. 

While at Tower Falls we had rare sport taking the fine 
speckled trout that throng the eddies in the river. Abundance 
of game—bear, elk, and deer—exists in the surrounding moun¬ 
tains, but we could not stop to hunt. However, the fir-timber 
in places was alive with flocks of mountain-grouse, a fowl 
niuch resembling a prairie-chicken, though smaller, which af¬ 
forded fine sport for those of our party who had fowling-pieces. 
They are easily taken, and when well cooked are very delicious. 

Leaving the falls in the afternoon, our trail bore to the 
right and wound up a long, barren ridge, with rolling hills of 
beautiful meadows, dotted with woodlands on our left, and vast 
forests of pine, penetrated by Tower Canon, on our right. 
When about half-way up to the summit of Mount Washburn, 
the main trail veers still farther to the right through the dense 
pine-timber; thence southward, crossing the rim of the basin 
just west of the mountain to the Great Falls and Grand Canon 
of the Yellowstone. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


Mount Washburn.—Sublime Scenery.—Grand Canon.—Upper Falls.—Perilous Posi¬ 
tion.—Great Falls. 

Mount Washburn, so named by a party of explorers led 
by General Id. D. Washburn, in 1870, rises to the remarkable 
altitude of ten thousand four hundred arid, eighty feet, baro¬ 
metrical measurement, above the level of the sea. Its summit 
may be reached on horseback, though with difficulty. 

Standing four hundred feet above the line of perpetual 
show, and overlooking the lesser and lower peaks which sur¬ 
round it, the view of the surrounding country, for from fifty to 
one hundred miles in every direction over this wonderland of 
America, is unsurpassed. The eye surveys the very “ crown 
of the continent,” where the great rivers, the Columbia, the 
Colorado, and the Missouri, in miniature streamlets, interlap 
each other, and whence, fed by eternal snows, they leap and 
plunge down the rough and rocky defiles to the fertile valleys 
below, increasing in volume as they flow to every point of the 
compass, until they are lost in the two great oceans of the 
world. The course of the river can be distinctly traced to its 
source in Yellowstone Lake. 

From the summit, or even from a position far up the sides, 
with a good field-glass, can be distinctly seen the main summit 
of the Rocky Mountains, to the south and west, the great water- 



CLIFFS ON THE YELLOWSTONE, 




















VIEW FROM MOUNT WASHBURN. 


60 


divide of the continent. Beyond, and farther to the south, are 
the three Tetons, rearing their craggy sides and snow-covered, 
cloud-capped summits far above all surrounding objects, stand¬ 
ing as grim sentinels over the wild wilderness, “ monarchs of 
all they survey.” To the west and northwest are the Gallatin 
and Madison ranges, their bold, towering summits covered with 
eternal snows, mingling with, and in the dim distance seeming 
to melt away into, the lieecy clouds. To the north, spread out 
before us in all its grandeur, is the historic valley of the Yel¬ 
lowstone, with its thousands of boiling springs, traversed by 
the winding, turbulent river, and walled in by lofty mountain- 
ranges, until far below it spreads itself out in marvelous beau¬ 
ty, offering a home for the sturdy pioneer who will venture 
to till the soil; while along the eastern boundary of our vision 
the eye rests upon the Snowy Range, extending southward from 
Emigrant Peak, east of the Yellowstone, marking the divide 
between that stream and the Rosebud and Big Horn. The 
chaotic mass of peaks of every form and figure reminds one 
of leaning towers, pyramids, and castles, here and there show¬ 
ing in outline a perfect profile of the human face. To the 
south is the great basin of the Upper Yellowstone, once largely 
submerged by a vast inland sea, but now the scene of mud-vol- 
canoes, boiling springs, and spouting geysers, everywhere send¬ 
ing up their clouds of steam, in the southeastern portion of 
which, many miles distant, is the Yellowstone Lake, set like a 
gem in the mountains, its placid surface glistening like a sea of 
o-lass in the glare of the sun. Then rising beyond the lake 
are the Wind River Mountains, whose cloud-bathed summits 
form the divide between the Yellowstone and Wind River, 
their towering peaks mantled from year to year with glittering 
glaciers, presenting a barrier which human foot has never 
crossed, and which is considered by the Indians the “ crest of 


70 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


the world.” From those snow-crowned heights, according to 
an ancient legend, the Blackfoot can look over into the happy 
hunting-grounds, witli its enchanting lakes and rivers, its de¬ 
lightful landscapes, balmy breezes, and unclouded sun, the 
abode of departed and happy spirits who have crossed over the 
mystic river, where their enemies can never come, and where 
they can chase the antelope, elk, and buffalo, forever. At our 
feet, to the east, can be easily traced the outlines of the Grand 
Canon extending for twenty miles down the river from the falls, 
its rugged walls forbidding at every point a descent to the bot¬ 
tom without great effort and no little danger. Then stretching 
away, in every direction, is one vast area of pine-forest, as far 
as the eye can reach, with only a small opening here and there, 
darkening the sides of the mountains, and mantling the table¬ 
lands and undulating hills between with a covering of green. 
Surely such a view is grand beyond description. Considering the 
wild nature of the yet only partially explored country, the won¬ 
ders that meet the eye at every turn, and the exquisite beauty 
of the broad and variegated landscape as it is revealed in such 
a pure, transparent atmosphere, the view is rich with compensa¬ 
tion, and inspiring to the lover of the sublime in Nature. 

We find ourselves lost in contemplation, and the mind is 
completely overwhelmed as it tries to grapple with the momen¬ 
tous subjects presented. We are not far from the very crest of 
a vast continent, and can almost look down upon the sources of 
some of the grandest rivers of the globe, whose waters, starting 
yonder in those heaven-born fountains, go forth to every land to 
bless the nations of the earth. See that inland sea there, sleep¬ 
ing near the very top of the continent, and that vast basin 
which was once an inland ocean ! Only think of the time when 
these mountains were fiery volcanoes, darkening the heavens 
with their smoke, and pouring their fiery lavas into the hissing 


“ HELL-BROTH SPRINGS.” 


71 


and tossing waters, already troubled by subterranean throes and 
internal fires bursting forth in their midst, their mad waves 
beating high upon the rocky shores! Then the long ages of 
ceaseless action and patient effort, during which the lake has 
been partly drained by the cutting out of the Grand Canon, 
and the volcanoes have been robbed of their fury! Even yet 
the fiery demon below the surface reminds us of his spent fury, 
and departing glory, by the fearful concussions and grand erup¬ 
tions, as volumes of boiling water are hurled hundreds of feet 
into the air. 

But I must hasten on to join our party, who have again left 
me alone on the mountain. I find them camped just at the 
southern base of Washburn, by a rippling brook in the shade 
of the trees near a lovely park where we spend a pleasant night. 

Just down the stream on which we camped, a short distance 
to our left, is another group of boiling springs, the sulphurous 
fumes of which scented the air where we were camped. We 
were satisfied with a description, and the offensive odors coming 
from that direction, and did not visit them. The greenish-yel¬ 
low, paint-like fluid, and the sulphurous slime, the noisy ebulli¬ 
tion, the sickening, suffocating fumes emitted, and the desolate 
and unearthly appearance of the place, tempted the explorers 
to draw upon the infernal vocabulary again, and they styled the 
place “ Hell-Broth Springs.” 

Breakfast over, the horses brought in, saddled, and every¬ 
thing packed up, at an early hour we left camp, and, after a ride 
of some ten miles down the general course of a little stream, our 
trail following a zigzag route to evade the fallen timber and a 
dense forest of pines, we came to the Great Falls, at the head 
of the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone River. This place is 
of great interest to the tourist, where he will be tempted to tarry 
long amid the wondrous grandeur and beauty of scenes which 


72 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


even the finest linguist must ever fail to describe and the 
most skillful artist despair of painting, the eye being the only 
medium through which a just conception of the surpassing 
beauty and sublimity ot the place can be obtained, dhe ii\ei, 
after bowing through a beautiful, meadow-like \alle\, thence 
winding gently along under the shade of a lo\elj woodland, 
with placid and steady current, the water so clear that the tish 
can be seen in their sports along the bottom, the vegetation 
coming to the water's edge on either side, with no warning save 
two small rapids just above the brink, is compressed to one hun¬ 
dred and fifty feet in width, and drops over a precipice of one 
hundred and forty feet. A quarter of a mile below it is again nar¬ 
rowed between two great walls, and makes a fearful bound over 
a perpendicular shelf into the spray-filled chasm three hundred 
and fifty feet in depth, attended with a fearful, rushing sound 
that may be heard for miles—making five hundred feet of per¬ 
pendicular fall within a distance of a few hundred yards! Then 
away in the “ dizzy distance,” far, far below us, the stream is 
seemingly narrowed to a brook, looking more like an emerald- 
tinted ribbon than a mightv, roaring river, and dashes on with 
the velocity of a torrent, rushing down steep declivities and spin¬ 
ning around short angles, the furious waves wasting their puny 
strength against the massive walls of the Grand Canon, in the 
gloomy depths of which the river disappears until it issues from 
the fearful gorge at the mouth of Tower Creek, many miles below. 

The Upper Falls, though they are not so high, yet, being 
nearer the surface of the ground among the pines and exposed 
to the sunlight, which adds greatly to their beauty, and being 
easy of access from every point, are quite picturesque. Part 
wav down the chasm the volume strikes a second ledge—a sort 
of bench—which ruffles the smooth surface, lashing the water 
into foam which descends in jets and showers with a sort of 



THE UPPER FALL, YELLOWSTONE 


8 




























LOWER FALLS, YELLOWSTONE 



























































































LOWER FALLS, YELLOWSTONE. 


73 


ricochet or glancing movement, sending up a cloud of spray all 
sparkling with crystal brightness in the suniight, the beauty 
made more enchanting by the bright rainbows that glitter in 
the vapor. One can stand upon the very brink of the precipice, 
and also descend to the foot, where he will soon be drenched 
with spray. In the presence of such wonders, hours seemed like 
moments; and from a rock protruding nearly midway over the 
cataract, almost forgetting that I was alone, long after our party 
had gone, I sat watching the descending waters, listening to the 
song of the cataract, and admiring the lovely rainbows playing 
upon the snow-white vapor, reluctant to depart, and regretting 
the shortness of my stay. 

But the Lower Falls, owing to their stupendous height and 
tlieir imposing and gorgeous surroundings, constitute the centre 
of attraction. You can descend to the very brink of the fearful 
precipice, and, with steady nerve, can peer into the seething 
abyss below. From this point you obtain the best view of the 
canon, though the best place to view the falls is from one of the 
overhanging cliffs in the canon farther down the stream. 

The canon commencing at the upper cataract is here fully 
two thousand feet above the bed of the stream, its almost ver¬ 
tical sides carved by the aqueous forces and atmospheric agen¬ 
cies into towers, turrets, domes, castles, spiral columns, and deep 
caverns and chambers of all shapes and dimensions, of great ar¬ 
chitectural beauty, the Gothic columns and vast escarpments all 
gorgeously arrayed in lively colors of almost every conceivable 
hue, beautifully blending into each other, showing the handi¬ 
work of a skillful architect and artist. 

Looking down the river, the vast gorge increases in depth, 
and from its gray, shelving summits fringed with pines, or its 
bold promontories, you can peer into the awful depths below 
tilled with clouds of rising spray, and made lively by the echo of 


74 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


the mighty torrent and the rush of maddened billows. The 
mind is overwhelmed with the grandeur and marvelous beauty 
of the scene, and completely captivated by the irresistible fasci¬ 
nations of the place, with its weird surroundings, so unlike any¬ 
thing ever seen before. We lingered here nearly a whole day 
on our return; and, on making the descent to the water’s edge 
below, we obtained a view with a glass from almost every point 
of observation. 

The fall, at first sight, does not look so high as you expected, 
yet it is marvelously grand, presenting the appearance of a sym¬ 
metrical and unbroken sheet of snow-like foam, or silver tapestry 
suspended from the colossal pillars above, set in dark masses of 
rock, on either side forming a beautiful background, and disap¬ 
pearing in a cloud of ascending spray which is tinged with mel¬ 
low sunlight and gorgeously colored with brilliant rainbows. 
Says Mr. Langford, one of the first explorers : “ A grander 

scene than the lower cataract of the Yellowstone was never 

$ 

witnessed by mortal eyes. The volume seemed to he adapted 
to the harmonies of the surrounding scenery. Had it been 
greater or smaller it would have been less impressive. The 
river, from a width of two hundred feet above the fall, is com¬ 
pressed by converging rocks to one hundred and fifty feet 
where it takes the plunge. The shelf over which it falls is as- 
level as a work of art. The height by actual line-measurement, 
is three hundred and fifty feet. It is a sheer, compact, solid, per¬ 
pendicular sheet, faultless in all the elements of picturesque 
beauty.” The rocks on either side, moistened constantly by the 
spray, are beautifully adorned with vegetation and many-tinted 
mosses. I observed on the opposite bank of the river, over¬ 
shadowed by the pine-crested w r all, keeping out forever the rays- 
of the sun, a bank of snow which perhaps remains in its se¬ 
cluded retreat from year to year. On the very brink of the 


DESCENDING THE GORGE. 


75 


precipice, peering over the dizzy depths, I plucked a sprig of 
evergreen, and from a crevice in the wall gathered a bouquet of 
flowers as relics of the delightful visit. 

A perpendicular chasm of several hundred feet, commenc¬ 
ing at the fall and extending three or four hundred yards below, 
makes the descent to the cataract on this side impossible ; though 
one man claims to have descended on the opposite side to the 
very foot of the fall. Feeling strong and being full of advent¬ 
ure, I determined, if possible, to make the descent and explore 
the tunneled walls to the very bottom of the canon; and, after 
several unsuccessful attempts, in company with my friend W. H. 
Todd and two other gentlemen, with great effort we succeeded 
in making the descent of the fearful gorge down to the water’s 
edge, a few hundred yards below the falls, a feat that requires 
a steady head and all the nerve and muscle that a strong man 

t/ O 

and an expert and careful climber can command, and which is 
attended with no little danger. This, however, we did not re¬ 
alize until far down the canon, nor fully appreciate until our 
return. The thought of it makes me almost shudder to this 
very moment. 

From a lofty eminence we survey what seems to be a plausi¬ 
ble route, and armed with strong staves and stout hearts we 
make the dangerous adventure. Down, down, down we go, tak¬ 
ing a zigzag course, now crouching ’neath shelving, overhanging 
rocks, now digging footholds in the clay or brittle wall along 
the side of some steep acclivity, or clambering carefully along 
the shelving and treacherous summit of a dark, vawning chasm 
right below, as if opening to receive us. The detached frag¬ 
ments of rock set in motion by us go thundering down the 
frightful gorge, and seem to echo back the fate of him who, los¬ 
ing his balance or missing his frail foothold, should be precipi¬ 
tated into the gloomy depths. But, choosing well our footing, 


76 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


and following an angular course, with the exception of one in¬ 
cident that came near proving fatal, we reached the bottom in 
safety. I was leading the van, and, feeling confident that we 
could follow the little gulch we were in to the bottom, all were 
going at good speed and we became careless in looking out the 
path ahead, when, what was my surprise all at once to find my¬ 
self right on the verge of a precipice, over which if I plunged I 
would lose my balance, and be dashed into a thousand pieces ! 
The surface below was too smooth and steep to stand upon, and 
with the momentum gained going over the “jump-off ” I would 
be precipitated down the gorge. But here another difficulty 
arose: while I could scarcely hold my footing where I was, the 
surface was so smooth that I could not move backward one inch ; 
and if my friends above me moved from their places, the vast 
beds of talus around them would be set in motion and send me 
over the cliff. What was to be done? I was inching down¬ 
ward, and six inches more wmuld doubtless tumble me down the 
gulf. The roar of the water was so great that I could not com¬ 
municate with my friends, who, seeing my dilemma, sat motion¬ 
less (save the one in the rear, who started to my relief), the best 
thing they could do. Keeping quite “cool,” and planting my 
staff in a shallow niche below on the side-wall, with my knife I 
picked a frail foothold in the shelly rock, regaining my footing, 
and I soon scrambled out, when I was joined by my compan¬ 
ions, who, by-the-way, were flightened far more than myself ; 
and choosing a circuitous route we were soon at the very bot¬ 
tom of the Grand Canon beside the foam-crested waves of the 
1 ellowstone, and felt amply compensated for the effort, in the 
sublimity of the surrounding scenery. Proudlv we walked 
along the banks of the river and slaked our thirst from the 
emerald-tinted stream, feeling that we were explorers in this 
region, and the first to set foot upon these mystic shores. 


VIEW FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE CANON. 


77 

Ihe view from the bottom of the canon is grand and im¬ 
posing in the extreme. The river no longer appears as the 
little silvery streamlet moving smoothly along its winding bed, 
as seen from the summit in the distance, but a foaming, dashing 
torrent, more than a hundred feet wide, its raging billows lashed 
into foam as they beat high upon the solid rocks. The tall, state' 
ly pines at the top of the canon appeared to be but dwarfed 
shrubs, while our companions whom we left behind, standing 
upon the promontory above us, looked to-be but little boys. 1 
never can forget my visit there, and the inspiration of what I 
believe to be the grandest and most soul-inspiring scene in the 
National Park. Mud-volcanoes and boiling springs may fade 
trom memory, noisy, spouting geysers cease to attract, but the 
strangely bewitching beauty and ■ sublimity of this scene, the 
overpowering sense of the presence of Deity which it gives, 
will make it an event to which I will always revert with pro¬ 
found gratitude. As we stood in the depths of that vast cham¬ 
ber, and looked up at the towering walls so exquisitely carved, 
and all decked in lively colors of richest hue, blending together 
in a manner gorgeous beyond the conception of any artist, 
arched over with the blue canopy, the bright rays of the sun 
bathing the whole with mellow light, then cast our eyes up to the 
grand cataract above, pouring over the fearful precipice, and 
listened to the tremendous roar of the water descending into 
the seething abyss, together with the rushing sound of the foam- 
crested waves dashing madly by as if hastening from the awful 
scene, we were awed into silence and reverence, feeling that we 
were in the very antechamber of the great God of Nature, and 
that he was talking to us and teaching us lessons of his great¬ 
ness, his grandeur, and his glory, that human language must 
ever fail to express. A sense of the awful pervades the mind, 
and we almost felt that we were trespassing upon sacred ground. 


78 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


I felt like baring the head and bowing the knee to One who 
■could pile up rocks in such stupendous majesty, and carve and 
paint them in such matchless splendor, “ who cutteth out rivers 
among the rocks ; ” “ who holdetli the waters in the hollow of 
his hand,” and spreadeth them out in such grandeur and beauty. 
“ Great and marvelous are thy works, Lord God Almighty. 
Heaven and earth are full of thy glory.” 

I thought, while I lingered there, if such slight glimpses into 
the ways and works of Nature’s God as are manifest here be¬ 
low, obtained as they are with so much effort, and where at best 
we must needs “ see through a glass darkly,” are so overpower¬ 
ing and inspiring to the soul, what must it enjoy when, freed 
from this cumbersome tenement, and with enlarged capacities, 
expanded and unobstructed vision, it shall behold with eyes 
undazzled the beauty of our God, and revel amid the untold 
glories of that “ temple not made with hands, eternal in the 
heavens.” 

We left our cards in the crevice of a rock, and, each man 
taking a pebble from the stream as a souvenir of the visit, we 
clambered up the rocky steep, which feat was almost as perilous 
as, and even more difficult than, the descent. We were gone five 
hours, and all felt it to be one of the most remarkable advent¬ 
ures of a lifetime. 

A visit to the National Park is incomplete without a view 
of the Grand Canon and Great Falls of the Yellowstone. 








great canon 


OF THE YELLOWSTONE, 













CHAPTER IX. 


Dr. Hayden’s Theory of the Falls and Canon.—Lost again.—Camp on the Yellow¬ 
stone.—Sulphur Mountain.—Mud-Volcano.—Giant’s Caldron.—Muddy Geyser. 
—Diabolical Appearance of Everything. 

Dr. Hayden’s theory of this great waterfall and stupendous 
chasm on the Yellowstone is that the basin around it was once 
the scene of an immense lake, which in time became the centre 
of great volcanic activities, erupting vast quantities of lava, 
which, cooling under water, took the form of basalt, volumes of 
volcanic ashes and fragments of rock being thrown out from time 
to time from the craters, forming breccia as it sank through the 
water and mingled with deposits from siliceous springs. 

In course of time the lake was drained away by the cutting 
out of the canon. The easily-eroded breccia along the course 
of the river was cut deeper and deeper as ages rolled on, while 
springs and creeks and atmospheric agencies combined to carve 
the sides of the canon into the many fantastic forms they now 
present, by wearing away the softei* formations, leaving the hard 
basalt and firmer deposits made by the hot springs standing in 
massive columns and spiral pinnacles of many a form and shape. 
The original spring-deposits, being white as snow, are stained by 
mineral waters of every imaginable tint, all blending delight¬ 
fully together, which, when the bright sunlight pours down upon 
them, present an enchanting and bewildering view of forms and 
colors, causing the finest works of art to dwindle into insignifi- 


80 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


cance when compared with the productions of Nature’s Great 
Artificer. The process of erosion was arrested by a sudden tran¬ 
sition from the softer material to a ledge of hard basalt, and the 
falls are the result. 

This theory, in part at least, appears quite plausible. In 
our descent to the bottom of this wonderful fissure we followed 
part of the way the course of a little rivulet coming down from 
the summit, which I thought to be the sweetest water I had ever 
tasted, and at the bottom found a number of hot springs, while 
a few miles farther down the canon they are numerous. We 
were told that there is, in some places, a frying, simmering sound 
constantly falling upon the ear, and the surroundings are much 
like the mouth of Tower Creek, filled with sickening odors from 
the mineral waters; and the water of the river is quite warm, 
and of a miserably alum and sulphurous taste, giving little else 
than vexatious disappointment to the weary and thirsty explorer 
who at that time and in such a place would give much for a drop 
of water to cool his parched tongue. On more than one occa¬ 
sion the tourist meets with the same disappointment, finding 
himself not “in a dry and thirsty land where no water is,'’ but 
where a cup of pure, cold water is hard to obtain. More than 
once have I dashed the cup from my lips, or risen in disgust 
from the side of a rippling, sparkling brook where I had ex¬ 
pected a refreshing quaff to allay my thirst, but which was 
tepid, tinctured with alum or sulphur, or something worse, or so 
hot tliat it would scald. 

In the Grand Canon one also will be attracted by the many- 
tinted colors of the mineral-stained rocks, a number ot colors 
combining often in one small chip. The same feature is observ¬ 
able at other places in the basin. 

Our camp was in the margin of a little park on the very 
verge of the canon, and never did we sleep more sweetly than 


THE FOREST. 


81 


when lulled by the never-ceasing song of these two wonderful 
cataracts. There is much in the towering mountains, pine-for¬ 
ests, lovely parks, valleys, streams, and delightful cascades, sur¬ 
rounding the place, to add to the attractions. 

Again I found myself lost in the wilderness, and as it was 
approaching eventide the prospect quite fair for a night with 
the bears and panthers (called mountain-lions in this section). 
Our party had gone several hours before, and had turned off the 
trail and camped among the pines by the river-side, while, not 
observing their tracks, nor the place where they had camped, I 
had passed on for several miles before observing the mistake, 
thinking I would meet them along the river in the prairie above. 
They tired signal-guns, but I never heard them. While on Sul- 
pliur Mountain, investigating the curious phenomena of the 
place, on looking down the river near the trail on which I had 
been traveling, I noticed the horses grazing in the valley, and 
returned to camp, once more relieved of the unpleasant antici¬ 
pations of a lonely night in the mountains without food or 
shelter. 

Leaving the falls, the trail follows up the bank of the river, 
now through a dense forest, and here and there a grassy cove, 
crossing frequent rills of sparkling water rippling down the 
mountain-sides. After a few miles we came out into a beautiful, 
meadow-like valley flanked with undulating hills, matted with a 
heavy growth of nutritious grass, which our horses enjoyed 
hugely, and covered with beautiful flowers glowing with the 
freshness of spring-time, though it was August, and interspersed 
with shady woodlands. Here the majestic river gives no inti¬ 
mation of the grand exhibition it makes below, where it attracts 
the wonder and admiration of the traveler from every land, but 
with transparent clearness and emerald tint it flows peacefully 
and leisurely along its channel between its low and verdant banks 


82 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


with slow, majestic movement, scarcely a ripple being observed 
upon the placid surface. It acids greatly to the loveliness of the 
landscape, causing one to think that everything of the grand, 
terrific, or diabolical, has disappeared. 

From our camp at the base of the mountain we had an in¬ 
viting view of the valley. While riding over this valley and its 
rolling foot-hills, I was forcibly reminded of the beautiful prairies 
of Missouri and Kansas. From the heavy growth of rich vege¬ 
tation, showing the fertility of the soil, which is of good depth, 
it is evident that, other things equal, it would produce splendid 
wheat and corn. But when we remember that we are many 
miles from where a wagon-track was ever made, look up at 
those snowy mountains, there so near us, and consider that we 
are seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, where frost 
comes every month in the year, if not every night, and ice forms 
a half-inch thick in August (as it did in our camp last night, 
August 25th), all thoughts of such things suddenly vanish, and 
we cheerfully relinquish it to old Bruin, the numerous herds of 
wild game, or to the sportsman, or pleasure-seeking tourist who 
may come to admire its beauties and explore its adjacent 
wonders. 

There are seemingly but two seasons in this region, win tel 
and spring, though the former largely prevails. Even in July 
and August both prairie and woodland bloom with fiowers of 
brilliant hue, possessing all the freshness of spring. They seem 
to follow closely the melting snows up the highest mountain 
side, if possible to beautify and adorn Mother Earth with a gor¬ 
geous robe, ere Winter comes again to lock everything in his icv 
fetters, and enshroud it with his snowv mantle. Where the trail 
crosses Mount Washburn we could gather snow with one hand 
and bouquets with the other at the same time! Some of our 
companions had a game at snowball, which would be rather a 


SULPHUR MOUNTAIN. 


83 


novel sport in August for those of our readers who live in the 
“ sunny South,” where Summer reigns perpetually. 

About a mile from our camp, up the river, we cross Alum 
Creek—so named from the strong tincture of its sparkling 
waters—coming down from the divide to our right. Two or 
three miles farther on and ten from the falls—not far from 
the Yellowstone—in the midst of the prairie, is Crater Hill, 
or Sulphur Mountain, the Mud-Puffs and boiling springs, sur¬ 
rounded by remarkable formations, at which point, just after 
daylight, we observed numerous jets of steam ascending, which 
were quite interesting, and we thought we had surely arrived 
at Geyserland. On a beautiful morning when the sun is just 
rising, as the traveler, standing upon some commanding emi¬ 
nence, views these slender jets of steam shooting up from many 
clusters of springs scattered amid valleys and woodlands, and 
along the mountain-sides, he almost imagines that he is in a 
civilized land, these resembling the volumes of steam and 
smoke curling up from machine-shops, and nourishing hamlets, 
marking the abodes of industrious citizens. Instinctively you 
pause to hear the rumble of machinery, the shrill report of the 
railroad-whistle, or the thunder of the passing train. P>ut, alas! 
it does not come, and the spell is soon broken by the shouts of 
our buccaro , as he brings in the animals preparatory to making 
our next “ drive.” 

Visiting Sulphur Mountain, we find two oblong hills or 
mounds in close proximity, about one hundred and fifty feet 
high, one of which is flanked on the northeast side by a dense 
growth of pine-timber. They have been raised up in the midst 
of the almost level plain by thermal or volcanic agencies of 
some kind. 

Almost the entire surface of both is perforated with numer¬ 
ous fissures and old craters, from which hot streams of sulphur- 


84 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


ous vapor pour forth in great abundance. We have to be care¬ 
ful where we sit down, and even where we walk. The fissures 
are lined with sulphur-crystals ; and with pick and shovel great 
quantities of this article can be obtained just beneath the crust 
all over this mountain. The exterior of the mound resembles 
burnt clay, and the numerous steam-vents tell you of the great 
heat yet prevailing just below the surface. 

At the western base of one of the mounds is a beautiful 
sulphur-spring, the basin of which is about fifteen feet in diam¬ 
eter, is encircled with a solid rim projecting slightly over the 
water of the basin, which is beautifully scalloped and corrugated 
with delicate bead-work of every form and shade. The water 
has a bright sulphur-tint, and is in a constant state of ebullition, 
the eruption raising almost the entire mass, throwing it from 
three to six feet above the surface. It literally “ boils like a 
pot ”—rather like a huge caldron. Considering its porcelain-like 
border so exquisitely formed and shaded, by the bright tint of 
the troubled water, it is quite interesting. Taking advantage of 
the windward side to evade the suffocating steam, from the mar¬ 
gin of the basin we gathered a number of pebbles of various 
sizes, from that of a marble to a hen’s-egg, which were coated 
with silica, some smooth, others rough like burs, which, on being 
broken, exhibited layers of sulphur and silica, and other miner¬ 
als curiously arranged inside. Xear this place is a steam-vent 
which acts periodically, sending up a vast volume, attended with 
an explosive sound. Passing over the barren, treacherous crust, 
not far away we found a group of real mud-caldrons from ten 
to fifteen feet in diameter, some containing only a mass of filthy- 
looking, muddy water, and others with contents about the con¬ 
sistency of paint and thick mortar, all at high temperature, and 
in a constant state of ebullition. One of them has been com¬ 
pared in its actions to a caldron of mush. It is far more un- 


MUD-CALDRONS. 


85 


sightly than anything of that kind could ever appear, being of 
a dark, sickening cast, though of about the consistency of hasty- 
pudding just before it is taken from the tire. The escape of 
the sulplmreted gas through the mud is attended with a thud¬ 
like noise, covering the surface with these puffs from which the 
waves recede to the shore. The ground is free from vegeta¬ 
tion for quite a distance around. The steam-vents, and caverns, 
sending up the echoes from gurgling caldrons below, remind 
you of the importance of taking heed unto your steps. The 
crust in places is treacherous, and one man came near tumbling 
into a boiling caldron of mud, by the bank giving away; while 
another broke through the crust to his knees, and was severely 
scalded. Cold mud is bad enough, but deliver us from it when 
hot, and steaming with such villainous fumes! At this place 
we were interested in the observance of very small mounds of 
pyramid-form, from which issued small jets of steam, looking 
like perfect volcanoes in miniature. 

But we leave this unsightly and unsavory place, and, after a 
ride of two miles across the hills to the southeast, on the bank 
of the river we come to another group even more unearthly in 
their appearance than those at Sulphur Mountain. They are 
much like the others, only “ far more so.” The contents vary 
in the consistency of the fluid and in the coloring, from muddy 
water to thick boiling mush, some tinted with sulphur-yellow, 
or copperas, others pink ; others a bluish cast, or dark brown ; and 
all boiling, and blubbering, and fizzing, and frying, and puffing, 
and looking as diabolical as anything pertaining to earth could 
appeal-. Sometimes the bubbles would rise two feet, explode 
with a puff, sending off their sulphurous vapor into the air, 
already freighted with horrible fumes. This cluster of springs 
covers an area of several hundred yards, and is mostly embow¬ 
ered in a pine-grove. The ground is broken by gulches and 


8G 


RAMBLES IN' WONDERLAND. 


hills, and in our ramble we often come suddenly on an extinct 
crater, or on the verge of one of these boiling pits. Many of 
them are in close proximity, yet generally different in some 
phenomenal aspect. 

Shortly after our arrival, guided by an immense jet of 

steam, attended with thunder-like reports, loud enough to be 

heard half a mile, we soon came to a horrible-looking pit in a 

grove on the slope of a hill, called the Mud Volcano. We 

% 

could but think, as we looked into its steaming crater, of that 
passage that speaks of “ an horrible pit,” and were also slightly 
reminded of another place, where there is something said of 
fire and brimstone, “ the smoke of which ascendeth up for ever 
and ever.” One shrinks back with fear as he peeps into the 
fearful caldron, with its funnel-shaped crater, thirty feet at the 
top and ten or twelve at the bottom, where, at a depth of thirty 
feet, the dark,paint-like fluid boils and gurgleswith a constant 
roar, which makes the earth tremble under his feet, sending up 
volumes of steam, which can be seen for miles, and emitting 
the same villainous fumes that characterize all of these horrible 
caldrons. The trees, for about two hundred feet on every side, 
are literally daubed with mud, dried on trunk and branch, which 
by many is thought to have been thrown from the crater when 
in a violent state of eruption. It is supposed by some to be a 
volcano, the steam having generated in a vacuum below, and, 
having no other means of escape, burst forth with violent ex¬ 
plosion, hurling earth and trees and boiling mud in every direc¬ 
tion. The freshness of the mud indicates that, if a volcano, it is 
either of recent origin, having thrown up the mud when it first 
broke out, or, having been in action for years, is choked up at 
times by the caving-in of the sides, causing it to relieve itself 
by hurling the muddy contents many feet into the air. Both 
theories are possible. However, it gave no signs of eruption 


THE GIANT’S CALDRON. 


87 


while we were there. It had the appearance of the channel of 
a dark, turbid river rolling along below the surface, as we could, 
now and then, when the dense cloud of steam passed away, see 
through the orifice. The loud report from the escaping steam, 
and the hollow gurgling of the liquid contents, seemed to indi¬ 
cate the country to which it belonged, and echo upward to 
•earth in doleful tones the fate of him who should fall into its 
infernal depths. But some have recently claimed that it is no 
"volcano at all, and that the mud with which the surrounding 
pines are draped is formed from the constantly-rising vapor, 
which is freighted with this same composition. This is quite 
plausible, and I am inclined to think it the correct theory. 

Not far from here, just down the hill, there is a vast cavern, 
the sides and entrance of which are covered with a soft, greenish 
sediment, deposited from mineral-charged gases, on which many 
curious travelers have inscribed their names. The roof, though 
at the mouth sufficiently elevated to admit a man of full stature, 
slopes gradually backward to the water’s edge. Though we 
confess a good share of curiosity, we forbear to enter here, 
being met by huge bursting bubbles of water dashing against 
the roof of the cavern, emitting forcible volumes of sulphurous 
steam, soon driving us from the place. This is known as Giant’s 
Caldron, which we leave in utter disgust, and, following up the 
river a short distance, right by the trail leading to the lake, we 
come to Muddy Geyser, the first spring of geyser-like preten¬ 
sions that we have seen yet, and a poor specimen it is. Here 
is a basin of dark, muddy, lead-colored water, about a hundred 
feet in diameter, and which you would never suspect of being 
a geyser should you pass when it is not in action, but would 
pass it by as any other pool of filthy-looking, muddy water, just 
as we did, until attracted thither by the rush of escaping steam 
and the roar of surging billows. It flows at regular intervals 


88 


RAMBLES IX WONDERLAND. 


of about six hours, and continues in action fifteen minutes, 
throwing up a vast volume of the muddy fluid, ten or fifteen 
feet in diameter, to an average height of fifteen feet, while an 
occasional jet reaches the exuaordinary altitude of thirty or 
forty feet. Guided hither by the strange report, we found the 
water in the hitherto-sleeping basin surging to and fro at a. 
wonderful rate. At times it seemed that almost the entire 
mass in the basin would be raised to a height of several feet, 
which would be pierced and broken by rising columns of steam, 
throwing it in every direction, after which it would be quiet 
for a moment, though only to repeat the operation, which is 
continued until the flow is ended. The orifice is shaped like a 
funnel, the sides lined principally with clay. The eruption is 
caused by the escape of steam generated below the surface, 
sending out the usual diabolical odors. But little water escapes 
from the basin during the flow, and, after the action, it nearly 
all sinks into the funnel, and is quite tranquil, gradually rising 
until time for another eruption. 

Camping here two nights on our return, we had a good op¬ 
portunity to watch its movements, with that of the other springs. 
But the revolting and unearthly appearance of these mud-cal¬ 
drons. together with the foulness of the odors they send forth ; 
the anything but wholesome contents ; the noisy ebullition ; and 
the general appearance of desolation that surrounds all such 
places, soon satisfied our curiosity, and, though filled with won¬ 
der at what our eves have seen, we pass on without much desire 
to turn. We wonder that the diabolical vocabulary was not 
again drawn upon in naming these unsavory places, but sup¬ 
pose it was exhausted before the explorer discovered this 
region, or that things began to appear too real to be trifled 
with in any such manner. 


CHAPTER X. 


Alum Creek.—Interesting Group of Hot Springs.—The “ Flutter-Wheel.”—Our 
Guide.—Mary’s Lake.—Lower Geyser Basin.—Thud-Geyser.—The Fountain.— 
“ 1 oung Hopeful.”—Journey up the River.—Vexations of the Way.—Tumble 

in the Mud.—Captain C-’s Misfortune.—Boiling Lakes.—Arrival at Upper 

Basin.—Wonderful Change. 

We returned to our camp on tlie Yellowstone, where the 
cook had prepared our noonday lunch, to which we did ample 
justice. The buccaro drove in the horses, which were saddled 
and packed, when we commenced our line of march westward up 
Alum Creek, which comes down from the divide between the 
Madison and Yellowstone Rivers. Our journey was over a roll¬ 
ing, prairie country, carpeted mostly with a mat of luxuriant 
vegetation. The view of the mountains, mantled with forests- 
of pine that come down to the borders of the lovely park, which 
is dotted here and there with groves of timber, gave us a fine 
landscape-view; while the refreshing noonday breeze,just down 
from the regions of snow, made it a delightful ride. We camped 
in a little cove, surrounded by towering pines, near the source 
of the stream. 

Not far from our camp is quite an interesting group of hot 
springs, the water containing various minerals, but carrying 
chieflv a strong; solution of iron, which shows itself in the de- 
posit everywhere on the mountain-side. The crust around the 
springs is hard and rusty-looking, like iron, and the deposit 



90 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


assumes almost every conceivable form. The water, simmering 
and gurgling and boiling up in a dozen or more different cal¬ 
drons, often splashing up from its pot-like basins several feet in 
the air, reminds you of an extensive group of furnaces. Quite 
a stream of water flows along the channel of the little creek, 
which is almost at boiling heat. My attention was arrested by 
an unusual, fluttering kind of sound, which was caused by the 
forcible discharge of a small volume of hot water from a fissure 
right in the bed of the creek, and which comes through and 
above the surface of the main channel, giving off a vibrating 
noise, much like that of a flutter-wheel. So different from the 
rest, it appears quite comic and curious, and will attract the 
attention of the passer-by. 

Next day—August 29tli—we were to arrive at the real 
Geyserland. So we were up at an early hour, cooked and ate 
breakfast, preparatory to an early start, while John Werk, 
our horseman and guide, went after the stock. 

John is the conductor of our party through the park. He 
is a thick-set, sandy-whiskered, and usually (when all works 
well) a good-natured fellow, and a perfect type of an old-time 
mountaineer. Clad in buckskin, fringed and ornamented in 
the usual style, mounted on his pony, and armed with black- 
snake and spurs, and at the head of a pack-train or party of 
tourists, he is in the zenith of his glory. He knows the camp¬ 
ing-places and curiosities of this region, and, if possible, takes 
his passengers through on time. But, like other mortals, he 
loses his patience sometimes, and he brings in his ponies with— 
“ Plague their pesky hides; they’ll pay for this tantrum!” com¬ 
ing from his lips, and emphasized by even stronger expressions, 
which indicate that something has gone wrong. 

“ Sinch your saddles tight, and see that the packs are on 
good,” he remarks, as we are getting ready, “ for we go through 


LOWER GEYSER BASIN. 


91 


timber as thick as the hair on a dog’s back, and down the long¬ 
est, steepest mountain bn the road. We’ll have to go through 
a swamp that'll mire a muskeeter; and, if we’re out after night, 
it’ll be darker than the thickets in Egypt.” 

Everything in readiness, we moved out, continuing our 
westerly course, passing numerous mounds and sulphur-springs, 
some of them sending off a rumbling sound, and loading the 
atmosphere with their disgusting odors. We passed along the 
bank of a lovely little lakelet, sleeping in seclusion in the shade 
of towering evergreens, by which it is sheltered from the roar¬ 
ing tempests. It is near the divide, and on its pebbly shore 
some members of our party unfurled the Stars and Stripes, and 
christened it Mary’s Lake, in honor of Miss Clark, a young lady 
belonging to our party. Descending the mountain, and fol¬ 
lowing the tortuous windings of the trail, leading through an 
almost impenetrable forest, we are soon on a tributary of the 
Madison, which we follow for several miles, partly through 
an open country, when, turning our course southward for a 
short distance through a neck of timber, we suddenly find our- 
selves in the Lower Geyser Basin, situated on the Firehole 
River, the principal branch of the Madison. Here, along the 
river, is an open space of one or more square miles, in the 
dense forest enshrouding the neighboring hills, containing hun¬ 
dreds of hot springs, surrounded by all manner of fantastic for¬ 
mations ; lakes of hot water, real geysers, and other curiosities, 
which are the result of subterranean heat seeking an outlet 
through the various openings in the siliceous deposit. At any 
other place they would be marvels to the curious traveler; but, 
being so near the grand geysers of the world, where the won¬ 
der-seeking tourist’s enthusiasm generally reaches its climax, 
they lose much of the attraction they would otherwise possess. 

The springs are much more numerous here than in the up- 


92 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


per basin, but do not assume such geyser-like pretensions. A 
few of them, however, though inferior in grandeur and extent, 
are of sufficient importance to be classed with their more high¬ 
ly-favored neighbors, throwing the water at times in consider¬ 
able quantities to the height of fifty feet, and making no little 
display in the effort. 

The action of the Thud-Geyser is attended with a detonation 
similar to the tiring of a cannon underground. The Fountain 
is said to be quite captivating when in action, and the name is 
suggestive of its general appearance. 

We camped in the basin, but visited only one cluster of 
springs, where we were highly entertained, however, for a short 
time, by the comic manoeuvres of a small spring, which, seem¬ 
ingly taking advantage of our ignorance, would fain make us 
believe it belonged to the wonders we had come so far to be¬ 
hold. There was a moderate-sized, funnel-like basin, with a 
small aperture at the bottom, through which the water and 
steam find an outlet. The water quietly but steadily rises in 
the funnel, when, all at once, without any warning, it begins to 
boil, and bubble, and spurt, and splash about, at a fearful rate, 
sometimes raising the whole mass a foot or more, when a little 
jet will spout up through it to a height of ten feet, and all the 
time fussing and spitting out its boiling contents in a spiteful, 
saucy manner. Some one filled the crater with pebbles, and it 
was amusing to see it throw them out. A wag christened it 
“ Young Hopeful ”—a suggestive title. It acts every few hours, 
and doubtless has geyser-like aspirations. After amusing our¬ 
selves for a time watching the movements of these springs, we 
returned to our camp in the verge of the woodland, and were 
soon seeking rest in slumber, for which the events of the day 
had given us a relish. 

Hext day we continued our journey southward up the Fire- 


A DIFFICULT TRAIL. 


93 


hole River (only the Madison, with another name), which rises 
in the Madison Lake, south and a little west of here, near the 
main range of the Rocky Mountains. The trail—where there 
is one—follows a tortuous, serpentine course, through the thick¬ 
est timber we ever saw, which was tilled in with tire-slashes of 
fallen trees, making a complicated network, and presenting an 
almost insurmountable barrier, which is by no means agreeable 
to the pleasure-seeking equestrian; and last, though not least, 
leading through next to fathomless swamps of the filthiest water 
and the blackest and muddiest mud—as the ladies in the party, 
who had a good opportunity to test it, will testify—to be found 
in the world. This increases the numerous other vexations 
of a trip through a wild mountain-country, and, if possible, 
exhausts the last vestige of the little stock of patience one has 
succeeded in bringing thus far on the journey. You have need 
to be sparing of this precious article, for you will require all 
that you are able to muster before you complete the grand 
rounds on horseback, especially if you are unfortunate in select¬ 
ing your riding-horse, and are not an expert rider. Just im¬ 
agine, if you will, a man on a moderate-sized cayuse , navigating 
one of these old-fashioned swamps, such as they have in the 
Missouri and Mississippi bottoms, where the ground shakes for 
twenty feet around, threatening every moment, but for the in¬ 
tervening trees and rubbish, to ingulf both horse and rider, 
causing serious misgivings of his ever being able to reach the 
shore! Then, at the same time, climbing over a fallen trunk, 
making a short angle to avoid some barrier in front, and twist¬ 
ing and dodging, and turning the body in every conceivable 
shape to avoid collision with contiguous logs and trees; keep¬ 
ing yourself free from the grasp of overhanging limbs, which 
threaten you with, if possible, a worse than Absalom’s fate, 
together with efforts to maintain your equilibrium in the sad- 


94 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


die—and all this taking place at the same moment , or as nearly 
so as can be imagined! The man may consider himself fortu¬ 
nate who maintains his position in the saddle, and goes through 
dry-shod; and the lady may be grateful who keeps free from 
the fallen timber, and escapes without a tumble in the mud: 
for more than one gentleman and lady of lofty aspirations and 
aristocratic pretensions have suddenly been wounded in spirit 
by being unhorsed in such a miserable place. The young lady 
along with our party did not escape a promiscuous tumble in 
the mud, though receiving no injury from it, and greatly enjoyed 
the fun after she had regained the saddle. Not so with our 
aristocratic friend Captain C-, who, by the sudden and un¬ 

expected stopping of his horse just when it was highly impor¬ 
tant that he should go forward, was precipitated head-foremost 
over the animaTs head, and sent sprawling to the earth, which 
was all but solid, and found himself unwillingly trying the 
depth of the mud and water, retaining enough on his person to 
remind his comrades of the catastrophe, to the utter discomfi¬ 
ture of our tasty comrade, whose pride suffered more than his 
person. But do not imagine that it is so difficult all the way 
up, and let not the danger of the journey keep you away. 

Here and there, along the river-bank on both sides, are nu¬ 
merous groups of caldrons and boiling springs. About three 
miles from the Lower Basin, on the west side of the Firehole, 
are three of the most remarkable of these thermal springs. Two 
of them are on slight elevations or mounds, and are almost real 
lakes (they are so large) of boiling water, the basins being sev¬ 
eral hundred feet in diameter, with borders beautifully orna¬ 
mented—the very hot water, with its ultramarine shade, so 
transparent as to reveal the beautiful, moss-like, silky lining, 
covering the sides of the basin to fabulous depths. One, on the 
side of the slope, not far from the river, is altogether unlike the 



THERMAL SPRINGS. 


95 


others, and creates quite a different sensation. It has appar¬ 
ently broken out near the river-bank, and enlarged itself by the 
caving in of the sides, extending back several hundred feet; 
the softer formation underneath wearing away by the constant 
action of the water, and leaving the harder substance of the 
crust extending over the rim of the basin. The dark-colored, 
treacherous, and gloomy-looking walls rise from twenty to thirty 
feet aboye the water on three sides. The constant agitation of 
the water, boiling up for three or four feet above the surface, 
sending up an angry, rumbling sound; the dense volumes of 
continuously-rising steam, freighted with offensive sulphurous 
fumes, which it emits; together with the dark and dismal over¬ 
hanging walls, bring a feeling of horror over the beholder as he 
gazes into the seething pit. We instinctively step back, lest by 
a too near approach and a crumble of the unsafe and treacherous 
wall we should drop into the steaming lake, where we would be 
beyond the reach of human help. One is vividly reminded of 
the scenes in Dante’s “ Inferno.” Could we hut have heard the 
cries of the tormented, Bunyan’s picture of the pit in the side 
of the hill which the pilgrims were shown by the shepherds on 
their way to the Celestial City, where they “ looked in and saw 
that it was very dark and smoky ; ” thought that they “ heard 
a rumbling noise as of fire, and a cry of some tormented, and that 
they smelt the fumes of brimstone,” would have been complete. 

“ That looks like the burning lake itself, 1 ’ says one. 

“ If this ain’t about as close to it as a man can go with a 
pack-horse, then I don’t want a cent,” remarks a waggish fel¬ 
low, standing near. 

“ Faith, and ye might be afther gettin’ a leetle nearer on foot 
sometimes, Billy, if ye ain’t careful, me hoy,” responds a son of 
Erin, who is making the grand rounds. 

After continuing our ride six miles farther up the river 

8 


9G 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


southward over the trail partly described above, some of our 
party choosing the channel of the river with its solid bottom, in 
preference to the treacherous swamps and fallen timber, for a 
portion of the way, without any further accident or mishap 
worthy of notice, at twelve o’clock a. m., August 30tli, we ar¬ 
rived in the Upper Geyser Basin of Firehole River, which is the 
centre of attraction in the National Park, and the grand geyser- 
region of the world, and where in future years, not far hence, 
either, the philosophers and tourists, and the lovers of the sub¬ 
lime and the wonderful in Nature, will gather from all countries 
and climes to make investigation, to behold and wonder, and 
even worship at Nature’s shrine. IIow sudden the transition! 
IIow,delightful and soul-inspiring the elfect! But yesterday 
we were admiring the beauty of charming landscapes, emerald- 
tinted, peaceful lakelets, and murmuring, sparkling streamlets, 
or charmed at the wonderful displays of Nature’s beauties and 
curiosities in the Lower Basin; and but two hours ago we were 
admiring the beauties of a lovely river, winding through a 
gloomy solitude ; gazing with horror into a seething caldron, 
or urging our jaded cayuses amid the perils of a desolate, marshy 
wilderness; but now, suddenly, the journey is ended, and we 
are ushered into a land of marvelous wonders and mysterious, 
soul-entrancing, indescribable beauties, where everything is life 
and animation ; and the beholder is soon lost to the dangers and 
vexations of the way, rapt in delightful bewilderment, and car¬ 
ried away with the enchantments of this mystic region. One 
imagines that he is no longer in the same country, and that, on 
his upward march toward the u crest of the world,” he has ar¬ 
rived in some fairy city of dazzling beauty and splendor. The 
first impulse, after the spell is broken, and you find that this 
region is really on our own Mother Earth, is to throw your hat 
into the air, and shout aloud for joy. 


CHAPTER XL 


Upper Geyser Basin.—Meeting with Friends.—Our Camp “Doing” the Geysers.— 
“Old Faithful.”—The Sentinel.—First Eruption witnessed.—Description.—The 
Crater.—Ornamentation of the Mound.—Beehive.—Giantess.—Fearful-looking 
Cavity.—Langford’s Description.—Refusal to accommodate Less Distinguished 
Personages.—Castle Geyser.—Beautiful Mound-Spring. 

Lest the reader should consider me extravagant, and accuse 
me of forgetting that he is yet ignorant of the mystic charms 
of this land of enchantment, I must introduce him to some of 
the surroundings. But never did language seem more made- 
quate to the task, nor my efforts at pen-picturing so sadly felt, 
as I attempt a portrayal of the utterly indescribable wonders 
of the Tapper Geyser Basin. I am tempted to throw away the 
pen in disgust. 

Here, also, is an opening in the surrounding forest, doubt¬ 
less caused by volcanic agencies or powerful thermal activities, 
as the numerous trunks and branches of trees imbedded in the 
siliceous deposit around the geysers and springs, and in the cal¬ 
careous sediment all over the basin, will testify. The opening 
containing the principal geysers extends about a mile up and 
down the river, and from a quarter to a half mile across, in¬ 
terspersed here and there with scattered trees and groves of 
pine. We camped in one of these little groves, where we found 
protection from the burning rays of the sun, and could enjoy 
the refreshing breeze; and, being in a convenient locality near 


98 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


the centre of the basin, we had a splendid view of the principal 
objects of interest. The horses were sent out to a grassy park 
a mile np the river, to feast upon the nutritious bunch-grass; 
and as wood Was convenient, and hot and cold water in abun¬ 
dance, we were prepared to “ dothe wonders of Wonderland 
at our leisure. 

The basin is covered mostly with a whitish crust of geyser- 
ite, or siliceous deposit, which is usually hard enough even to 
bear a horse. Here and there, however, is a treacherous, boggy 
swamp which we do well to avoid. The geysers and principal 
springs are surrounded with deposits of the various minerals 
formed into cones, pyramids, castles, and grottoes, of every con¬ 
ceivable design. The surface is perforated with steam-vents 
from a half inch to five feet in diameter. Just imagine the 
steam coming up from a thousand orifices, the transparent ele¬ 
ment spouting forth from a dozen caldrons at once ; and the 
whole scene, beautiful and strange within itself, bathed with the 
bright sunlight pouring down from a cloudless sky, softening 
and blending the variegated hues of the groundwork, and arch¬ 
ing every column of steam with a halo of brilliant colors ! Is it 
not enough to bewilder and overwhelm the curiosity-seeking 
tourist and lover of the wonderful ? 

Here we met with a number of kind friends, who had pre¬ 
ceded us but a few hours ; and, after taking a hasty lunch, we 
sallied forth to feast our curiosity, and explore the wonders of 
Gevserland, with a satisfaction that is better felt than told. We 
invite the reader to go with us, as we are a cheerful and con¬ 
genial group, and expect a good time. 

We will first visit the Old Faithful, so called from the regular 
intervals at which she spouts. She stands as a sentinel on that 
eminence yonder at the head of the basin, near the timber on 
the west side of the river, about a quarter of a mile southeast 


“OLD FAITHFUL.” 


99 


of our camp ; and, though on the outpost of this mystic region, 
she never flinches from duty, nor asks relief, but by the hourly 
rush of steam, and the grand display of water-works, she sounds 
the “ All’s well! ” reminding the inhabitants that she is at her 
post, and that the machinery of the lower region is yet in work¬ 
ing condition. It is nearly time for her to spout, and we must 
be in haste if we would witness the first eruption at close range. 
Here we found several mounds, perhaps the craters of extinct 
geysers; but the crater of the Faithful is on an elevation made 
by the deposit from the water about twenty or thirty feet above 
the common level, with a chimney-like crater rising five or six 
feet higher. Full of adventure, we walked up to the steaming 
aperture, but warned by the internal rumbling and quaking of 
the ground beneath us, attended by a rush of steam and water 
from the crater, we beat a hasty retreat, and had scarcely reached 
a place of safety, when, turning our eyes, we beheld one of 
the grandest displays of the kind we had ever beheld—a perfect 
geyser—an immense volume of clear, hot water projected into 
the air one hundred and twenty-five or one hundred and fifty 
vertical feet, attended with dense volumes of steam rising up¬ 
ward for many hundred feet, and floating away in clouds. So 
great was the impellent force, that the immense fountain was 
held in its place for several moments, only swayed to and fro by 
the gentle breeze, the water descending on all sides, and rushing 
down the slopes of the mound in great channels. Every specta¬ 
tor was filled with enthusiasm at this the first exhibition of the 
kind we had yet witnessed. The crater is oblong in shape, being 
two feet wide by six in length, which gives you an estimate of 
the dimension of the volume of water thrown out, the average 
height of which is about one hundred and twenty-five feet. 
The immense volume impelled from the crater forms a perfect 
apex at the top, where the water having spent its force descends 



100 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


on the outside of the ascending column, giving it, when the 
wind is favorable, driving away the steam, the appearance of a 
cone, nearly the shape of a sugar-loaf. The sparkling fountain 
lashed into foam, detached into millions of pearly drops, and 
all glistening in the bright sunlight, is grand beyond conception, 
and creates an enthusiasm that is perfectly irresistible. The 
water often at first goes up in jets or by successive impulses, 
as if the firemen were letting the steam on by degrees, each jet 
going higher, and still higher, when, after it has maintained its 
greatest altitude for a few moments, it descends in the same way 
until the force is spent. The last minute or so the eruption is 
entirely of steam. When it becomes quiescent (and slightly 
cools) we can approach the orifice, and look down into the throat 
for many feet, but can only hear the water angrily boiling and 
slowly preparing for another display. 

The deposit around the crater is somewhat peculiar, being 
of a hard, stony character, mostly silica, with a metallic grayish 
cast. Sloping gently from the orifice, the surface of the mound 
on every side is full of cavities, descending in successive ter¬ 
races, which are covered with little urns or basins arranged into 
every conceivable form, divided by curious and delicately- 
wrought partitions, much like those at the Mammoth Springs, 
and constantly full of beautifully clear water. The edges of 
many of these basins, as also the throat of the geyser, are cov¬ 
ered with silica, and corrugated and ornamented with a delicate 
coral-like formation, like beads and pearls of a beautiful porce¬ 
lain, and yellowish or saffron hue. In some of the little urns 
are delicate columns or stems surmounted with small tablets or 
caps just at the surface of the water, reminding one of toad¬ 
stools, cauliflowers, or flowers growing in the water. In others 
there are oval-shaped pebbles, and stalagmites and coral-like 
forms of every texture and tint. Growing up amid a cloud of 


BEEHIVE GEYSER. 


101 


water and spray surcharged with the materials which are wrought 
into so many shapes, the colors are kept bright, and the work 
appears as delicately as a butterfly’s plumage, but is so hard that 
you require an axe or some heavy instrument to secure a speci¬ 
men. In the midst of such wonders we are again wafted to 
the abode of the fairies, and can but think of the wonderful 
story of Aladdin and his lamp, and a dozen similar ones, so 
bewitching are the beauties of this region. The water in the 
pools is so transparent that, doubting our eyes, we could but 
sound its depth with a stick, or by inserting our hands. As you 
lecede from the summit, where the water grows cooler in its 
downward flow, the basins are larger, and the texture of the 
stony deposit proportionately coarse. Imbedded in this mound 
we notice the remains of several trees which are silicified, some 
of them furnishing beautiful specimens for a cabinet. 

We have lingered here longer than we intended, but have 
done so because this is the first geyser visited, and this account 
is an answer to many questions that we have been asked fre¬ 
quently since our visit there, and also describes the general 
features of nearly all of these wonderful curiosities. They are 
all different, however, in some peculiar feature, owing to the 
temperature of the water, and the shape and size of the geyser- 
tube. 

But, leaving the Faithful, and crossing the river on a fallen 
tree, gathering a sprig and cone from an evergreen as we pass, 
as a memento of our visit, about three hundred yards distant 
down the stream, and not far from its margin, on the side of 
the slope, we come to a little cone of the same siliceous charac¬ 
ter, with perfect symmetry of form, and beautifully corrugated 
with pearl-like bead-work. It is three feet in height, nearly 
circular in form, and from three to four feet in diameter at the 
top, with a base of eight feet. Its aperture is about eighteen 


102 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


inches in diameter, and ornamented in its peculiar geyser-like 
style. This is the Beehive Geyser, so called from its appearance 
—that of a beehive. Standing alone on the liill-side, you would 
not at first suspect that it belonged to the geyser family, as there 
is but little evidence of the action of water around it. But 
while we were in camp the next day after our arrival, some one 
shouted : “ Geyser ! geyser ! the Beehive ! the Beehive’s going 
off! ” when we looked, and beheld a stream of water and steam, 
somewhat larger than the aperture, ascending gracefully and 
without any apparent effort from this small orifice, until it 
reached an altitude of at least two hundred feet. It makes a 
fine display as the water and steam come up in a steady stream 
(unlike most of the others), and continues in action about fifteen 
minutes. We were captivated at the sight, and in the midst of 
our excitement waded the river in order to have the full bene¬ 
fit of a closer view. We could stand within a few feet of the 
base on the windward side, while the water and steam were 
hurled with great force into the air. This geyser acts only once 
in every two or three days, and, being one of great beauty, is a 
general favorite 

On the same side of the river, about two hundred yards to 
the eastward from the Beehive, on the summit of a little knoll, 
is the Giantess, which, according to the evidence of some of 
the first explorers, is one of the grandest and most magnificent 
geysers in the basin when in action. Here is an orifice, with 
edges beautifully scalloped, about twenty by twenty-five feet 
in diameter at the surface, and filled to the brim with water, 
which is at about 192° temperature, and very slightly troubled. 
No one would suspect its being a geyser, but simply a min¬ 
eral spring, such as crown some other eminences near here, 
were it not for the great channels and water-marks made by 
the descending torrent as it rushes down the hill-side, after 



“THE GIANTESS.” 


































































































































THE “GIANTESS.” 


103 


being released from the heated chambers far down in the 
bowels of the earth. But how different the scene two hours 
later, when attracted by repeated sounds like claps of thunder, 
and hea\y concussions like the firing of a cannon underground, 
and about as regular as the discharges of a battery in a sien'e, 
causing the earth to tremble beneath our feet, and filling one 
with horror that would cause many to fear and tremble, and 
hearing the rumble and rush of falling water, accompanied by 
the hiss of powerful steam-valves in motion, we hastened to 
the scene of action, which proved to be the Giantess! She 
was just getting up, or rather it proved to be letting off, steam ; 
and from the internal rumble of her machinery we anticipated 
a fine display. We found this great orifice nearly sixty-five 
feet in depth, half emptied, and the water foaming and heaving 
and surging at a terrible rate, throwing occasional volumes (a 
few scores of barrels each) out of the crater to the height of 
fifty feet, which came down with a fearful crash. At times 
the water would recede entirely from view, and we could look 
down into the terrible cavitv, made more gloomy bv the grim, 
dark walls, to its greatest depth. But more than once were 
we driven from the verge by the rising steam, as if, spiteful 
at our intrusion, it would cast out the boiling volumes and 
threaten us with destruction. This action was repeated oc¬ 
casionally for several hours, until after dark; but it positively 
refused to give us one of its grandest displays, of which a 
writer before quoted says : “ When an eruption is about to 
occur, the basin gradually fills with boiling water to within a 
few feet of the surface, when suddenly with heavy concussions 
immense clouds of steam rise to the height of five hundred feet, 
and the whole great body of water—twenty by twenty-five feet 
—ascends in one gigantic column to the height of ninety feet. 
From the apex of this column five great jets shoot up, radiating 


104 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


slightly from each other, to the unparalleled altitude of two 
hundred and fifty feet. The earth trembles under the descend- 
ing deluge from this vast fountain ; a thousand hissing sounds 
are heard in the air; rainbows encircle the summits of the jets 
with a halo of celestial glory. The falling water ploughs up and 
hears away the shelly strata, and a seething flood pours down 
the slope and into the river. After playing thus for twenty 
minutes, it gradually subsides ; the water lowers into the crater 
out of sight; the steam ceases to escape, and all is quiet.” It 
played several times for Dr. Hayden’s party, hut for less dis¬ 
tinguished personages it seems to have a contempt, as hut few 
have ever seen it as above described. I think, however, its 
glory is departing. 

Near here are a number of springs and caldrons, with 
remarkable formations, crowning the little knolls on which they 
are located, and some of them boiling and spouting away with 
geyser-like pretensions. 

Recrossing the Fireliole River to the west side, passing oui 
camp on the way, and following down the stream a short dis' 
tance, about four hundred yards from the Giantess, just at the 
border of a little grove, we come to a remarkable formation 
resembling in a striking manner the ruins of some ancient 
fortress. It will attract your attention as soon as you enter the 
basin, and has been styled the “ Castle Geyser”—a very ap¬ 
propriate title. The mound is several feet above the common 
surface, and is crowned with a chimney-shaped crater of ten 
feet in height, and perhaps eight feet in diameter. The forma¬ 
tion is siliceous, and contains numerous branches of trees, and 
even trunks incrusted with the grayish deposit. We ascend by 
steps or terraces, which are quite regular; and about the orifice, 
which is three feet in diameter, we find large globular masses 
of an orange-color, figured with the usual sponge-like corals. 









MUD SPRINGS 

























































BEAUTIFUL MOUND-SPRING 


105 


The water in the crater is constantly troubled, boiling and 
fretting, sending up steam and occasional jets of water to a 
height of twenty or thirty feet. It was in its day, perhaps, one 
of the grandest of the groups, and even yet at intervals makes 
displays that may well put others to the blush, sending up an 
immense body of water to an altitude of fifty feet, which is 
attended with heavy concussions and internal rumblings, and 
continues in steady action for one or two hours. It did not 
act while we were in the basin, though I have been told by 
those who have seen it that the effect is very fine; and so 
desirous were some of our party of seeing it that they arose 
at midnight. But it proved to be a “ false alarm.” 

A few steps from the crater of the Castle, and on the same 
mound, is one of those famous central springs, such as crown 
the summit of many a little mound both in the basin and 
scattered through the woods, whose beauties mortal eyes have 
never been permitted to admire. This is one of the most love¬ 
ly and exquisitely beautiful springs in all Wonderland. For 
beauty of coloring and delicacy of arrangement it cannot be 
surpassed. It is about ten feet in diameter. Its scalloped 
border of the finest texture, and embracing in its arrangement 
all that is beautiful; the projecting rim, and the delicately- 
colored sides as seen in the emerald-tinted depths of the mar¬ 
velously transparent water, present a scene that never is for¬ 
gotten, and which beggars description. This spring is not 
boisterous like others, and does not seem to overflow, though 
the temperature is just sufficient to keep it slightly troubled 
upon the surface, which, as it vibrates under the bright rays of 
the noonday sun, brings into play all the prismatic colors which, 
blending with the countless hues of the decorations on the sides 
of the basin, and observed in the ultramarine depths before us, 
presents a scene so perfectly fascinating to the- lover of the 


106 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


beautiful, that he again forgets his surroundings, and is wafted 
away from this mundane sphere to the “land of joy and 
beauty,” and all the brilliant scenes of fairy regions seem to be 
fully realized. In the fiery depths he can picture bowers, and 
coves, and chambers, all fantastically arranged and embroidered, 
which one might believe to be the outskirts of Fairyland itself; 
and he is tempted to look for some good genius to appear and 
unlock the mysterious gate that ushers him into the delightful 
realm, with its wonderful temples, its golden thrones, marble 
palaces, Elysian fields, silvery fountains, and mysterious inhab¬ 
itants, where he can revel amid the glories of that unknown 
land. We found our friend Colonel Sanders standing by this 
spring gazing intently into its depths, and perfectly fascinated 
with its beauty. 


CHAP TEE XII. 


Curiosity.—New Mode of Washing.—Cooking in a Geyser.—Disappointed Expecta¬ 
tions —Dish-Washing.—Bridget takes Revenge.—“ Taken in.”—Grand Gey¬ 
ser.—Turban.—The Saw-Mill, alias “Rustler.”—Old Chimneys.—Extinct Gey¬ 
sers.—Amusing Incident.—“ Attack in the Rear.”—“ Change of Base.”— 
River-side.—Comet.—Fantail Geyser.—The Grotto.—Quaint Formation.—The 
Giant Geyser, the Grandest in the World.—Wonderful Eruption.—Two Hun¬ 
dred and Fifty Feet in the Air.—Intense Excitement. 

What curiosity-loving mortals we are! Always seeking 
something new. And the geysers afford opportunity for more 
than one inventive genius to try some unknown and hitherto 
unthought of experiment. “ Can we not avoid the labor of 
laundry-work ? ” says one ; and immediately commits his task to 
Old Faithful, with orders to return his washing faithfully in one 
hour. But making no pretensions to faithfulness, only in her 
line of business— spouting —many articles that go into her cham¬ 
bers u ne’er come out again ; ” though what she does return is 
in the finest order. We were out but one ’kerchief, which we 
supposed was kept to pay the bill. One gentleman tried boil¬ 
ing his dinner in a geyser-spring, but a sudden eruption foiled 
his plans, blasted his hopes, leaving him dinnerless and disgust¬ 
ed with the business. We heard of another curiosity-loving, 
labor-saving philosopher, who was discharging the honors of 
the culinary department, and, having a natural abhorrence of 
dish-washing, in his musings he fell upon a plan, and, enthusi¬ 
astic at his new discovery, enticed by the bubbling of the water 
9 


108 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


in a lovely-looking little basin near by, lie hastened to give 
them over to his new servant, and, reposing all confidence in 
liis newly-found Bridget, he was lost again in meditation upon 
the advantages of a life in Gevserland, when, all at once, liis 
ears were greeted with an unusual rustling, splashing report. 
He looked out, and, behold! the hitherto quiet little spring, as 
if indignant at the insult offered, was writhing and spouting and 
splashing about at a fearful rate, and tossing knives and forks, 
spoons, plates, and cups, around in utter disgust. Ho time was 
to be lost, and, with disappointed expectations and scalded fin¬ 
gers, the dishes were rescued from the perilous situation, and 
were more fortunate than the philosopher, who was evidently 
“ taken in ” for one time. 

But leaving the Castle and its fascinating spring, following 
a circuitous route to evade the boggy places in the ravines, we 
found a foot-log, on which we recrossed the river to the east 
side; and, about one-eighth of a mile from the Castle, situated 
at the base of a small elevation near the edge of the timber, we 
found the famous Grand Geyser. Unlike the majority of the 
others, it has no raised cone, but only a funnel-shaped basin, 
which sinks below the level. The basin is some forty feet in 
diameter, in the centre of which is the orifice or mouth of the 
geyser-tube, about two and a half by four feet. In connection 
with this basin, though slightly elevated above it, is another, 
with a quadrangular-shaped rim, about twelve by twenty-five feet 
from border to border, in the centre of which is an orifice of 
three or four feet in diameter. This basin is three feet above 
the other; is most of the time full of water, which is generally 

quite turbulent, boiling up several feet above the surface, and 

• \ 

constantly emptying its contents into the basin of the Grand, 
which is very quiet when not spouting. 

It is impossible to portray the beauty of the fantastically- 


“GRAND” GEYSER. 


109 


shaped siliceous formations with which the rims, basins, etc., of 
these two springs are decorated ; the rounded, spongiform, coral- 
ligured masses, of every conceivable appearance, often resembling 
turbans, some one even comparing them to squashes or pump¬ 
kins, which resemblance is increased by their yellowish hue; then 
the hundreds of little reservoirs and shallow basins, arranged 
with a charming irregularity, scalloped, pearly, bead-like bor¬ 
ders, separated by elegantly-formed partitions, with every va¬ 
riety of coloring from the different minerals in the water, show¬ 
ing the handiwork of a Master-Artist, and, though so delicate 
in appearance, so solid that a hatchet is often necessary to ob¬ 
tain a choice piece for your cabinet. As remarked before, the 
general feature of the deposit around these craters is much the 
same, though each one has its characteristic arrangement and 
ornamentation. Sometimes silica prevails, sometimes alumina; 
at others the whole is shaded and strongly tinctured with sul¬ 
phur or iron. It is marvelous to see the thousand forms and 
types of beauty presented ; though diversified, each system is 
perfect in itself. These two springs are contiguous, but have 
no connection underneath, and the action of one does not affect 
the other. One would think the noisy, sputtering spring— 
called the Turban—was the spouter, and would never imagine 
that the quiet, unpretentious basin just below is one of the 
grandest fountains of the Upper Basin. But such is the case. 
It throws a stream of water, the size of the aperture, to a height 
of two hundred feet, accompanied by immense clouds of steam, 
the wonderful volume of water descending in the basin, together 
with the internal detonations shaking the very earth beneath to 
a great distance. It, spouts at intervals of about twenty-four 
hours, and continues in action for fifteen or twenty minutes. 
The grandeur of its appearance when making one of its finest 
displays on a bright, sunshiny day caused the explorers to give 


110 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


it the name of Grand Geyser. At daylight on the morning 
after our arrival I was aroused from a refreshing slumber by 
fearful subterranean reports, as regular as pulse-beats, just as 
though an enormous hammer was being hurled with wonderful 
force against the very foundation of the earth right beneath us, 
and, guided by the noise, I arrived here just in time to see this 
geyser in action. The basin was nearly full of water, agitated 
by the escape of dense masses of steam, when, all at once, with 
another report, as if from the engineer below giving the signal 
to commence, and with but little effort, a column of water grace- 
fully rose to the height of nearly one hundred and fifty feet, 
and was kept in position at that altitude for several minutes, the 
descending masses flowing away in a large stream, and the im¬ 
mense volumes of steam lingering around, mantling the beauti¬ 
ful fountain, and depriving us of a good view\ The column at 
first, however, rose above the steam, and, after its force was 
exhausted, retired within the funnel out of sight. It was not 
one of her grandest efforts, but sufficient to give the spectator 
some idea of its glory. 

One hundred yards from the Grand, toward the river, on 
the liill-side, is the Saw-Mill Geyser, which, from its industry, 
being in action about half the time, and the comical character 
of its manoeuvres, will not fail to bring itself into notice, 
though right in the shadow of the Grand. The orifice is only 
six inches, surrounded by a shallow basin, having a radius of 
ten feet. The basin is covered with pebbles and bits of silici- 
fied pine, which are beautifully ornamented by the showers of 
mineral-freighted water almost constantly hilling upon them. 
When in action, the basin is full to the brim and running over, 
and the steam, puffing up from the aperture in small quantities, 
making a noise much like the escape of steam from the pipe of 
a saw-mill, suggested the name. It raises a great body of water 










IN THE GEYSER BASIN. 











































































































































































































































































































































“THE RUSTLER.'’ 


Ill 


several feet, when, just as it is falling back, with a spasmodic 
and unusual effort, it is met by successive columns of steam, 
and quickly hurled upward again twenty-five feet into the air, 
with an occasional jet reaching the altitude of forty feet, when 
it is detached, and descends in crystal showers, producing, in 
the sunlight, a fine effect. It is interesting and quite exciting, 
especially in the absence of more magnificent wonders. Wc 
were highly entertained by watching its movements for nearly 
an hour, casting in pebbles to see them tossed out in every direc¬ 
tion. Not knowing at the time its name, I dubbed it “ The 
Rustler” (a word much used in the mountains, indicative of 
energy and activity), which my traveling-companions thought 
quite expressive, though a lady friend, perhaps with finer taste, 
named it “ The Fountain.” Surely it deserves a better title 
than the one it has. 

Near this point, along the river-bank, are a number of chim¬ 
ney-like craters, which Dr. Hayden thinks are the remains of 
extinct geysers. They are full of water, in some of which it is 
at a high temperature, though not sufficient to produce erup¬ 
tions. There are many such craters and springs all through 
Wonderland, which may have once been active geysers, but are 
now extinct; while others, though still active, erupt only at 
long intervals, and have not been discovered yet. It is some¬ 
times difficult to distinguish between geysers and inactive 
springs when the former are not spouting, except by the chan¬ 
nels in the shelly strata showing traces of the descending foun¬ 
tain as it flows away. 

While near the Saw-mill, on our first round, a little incident 
occurred which is too good to be lost. The surface at this point 
is perforated with numerous apertures and fissures, some of 
which, though too small to be readily observed, furnish vents 
for heated air from the regions below. Before going to the 


112 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


lower part of the basin we had stopped for a few moments, hop¬ 
ing to witness an eruption from the Castle, and, to pass the time 
agreeably, one of the party was relating an anecdote, to which 
the rest were listening attentively. One of our friends had 
thrown himself on the ground carelessly, in the shade of a small 
pine, his face wearing the very expression of satisfaction and 
delight, when, all at once, as if stung by a hornet, with fearfully- 
distorted features and violent gesticulations, his hands forcibly 
striking toward the seat of his trousers, he hastily came to his 
feet, and, as soon as breath would permit, exclaimed with vehe¬ 
mence : “ Geyser ! geyser! I’m sitting on a geyser !” It was 
evidently an “ attack in the rear,” causing a u change of base ” 
in double-quick. He had sat down on a steam-vent. We all 
laughed heartily at the joke, and continued our rambles. 

Following down the river on the same (east) side, and pass¬ 
ing numerous cones and hot and cold springs, we came to the 
River-side Geyser, with an oddly-formed crater, on the river- 
bank, in action almost constantly, but of moderate pretensions 
as to the height of its column. Hot far from this is the pret¬ 
tily fashioned crater of the Fan, so called from the appearance 
of its fountain when in action. It is at the lower extremity of 
the Upper Basin, where we must change our course. The Fan, 
or Fantail Geyser, is said to be one of the prettiest spouters in 
this region. Its machinery is surely the most complicated of 
any, and, having five distinct orifices, it sends up as many jets 
of water and steam, sometimes reaching an altitude of a hundred 
feet, the jets ascending and descending in such a manner as to 
resemble the outlines of a feather fan. It spreads itself three 
or four times a day, and is greatly admired by all who witness 
it, some of the spectators growing wild with enthusiasm at the 
gorgeous display. 

Recrossing the river once more, and following up the west 






TIIE -‘GIANT' 1 GEYSER 































































































GROTTO GEYSER. 


113 


bank a short distance, about one hundred yards from the stream, 
we come to a cluster of springs, at one side of which, on a bed 
of white silica, stands a mound of grotesque appearance, about 
twenty feet above the surrounding level. This is the crater of 
Grotto Geyser, noted principally for the curious, complicated, 
and irregularly-shaped walls surrounding the orifice, and rhe 
beautifully-wrought ornamentation with which they are sur- 
mounted. Here Nature has again shown her handiwork in the 
striking ingenuity of the arrangement and coloring of this 
quaint formation. It is formed into pillars, and arches, and 
walls, with projections and turrets, all so uniquely put together, 
and yet so complicated, that a description is out of the question. 
Some of the party crawled through the openings in the sides 
of the wall, when it had cooled after an eruption. It throws 
an immense volume of water sixty feet in the air, and some¬ 
times acts three or four times a day, though irregular in its 
eruptions. Two hundred yards from here, near the bank of 
Firehole River, is the Giant Geyser, which is the grandest and 
most gigantic fountain in the basin, and, as far as yet discovered, 
in the world. We had just left the Grotto, on our way to camp, 
and were resting in the cool shade of some intervening trees, 
not far away, when it began to give signs of an eruption, thus 
affording us a splendid opportunity to witness its movements. 

This geyser is one of a group of three orifices or craters, all 
in a row and in close proximity, together with a small vent just 
off to one side, six inches in diameter, from which jets of steam 
are almost constantly emitted, much in the manner of the dis¬ 
charge of steam from the escape-pipe of a steam-engine, and 
with about the same regularity. They are all situated on a 
slight elevation about seventy-five or one hundred yards in 
diameter. The Giant is of course the principal one, and consti¬ 
tutes the centre of attraction. Its crater has been compared, in 


114 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


appearance, to the base of a broken horn, but for my life I could 
liken it to nothing that I had ever seen, save the stump of a 
hollow sycamore-tree of gigantic proportions, the top of which 
had been torn off in a storm. It rises ten or twelve feet above 
the platform, with a diameter of eight or ten feet at the top, 
with five feet cavity. One side is broken in—torn off, perhaps, 
by an unusually terrific eruption. It swells out irregularly at 
the base just like the roots of a huge tree; the grayish silica 
crust represents the bark of the sycamore, while the cavity is 
carved into numerous little grooves, and stained with various 
minerals, giving it a dark coating, reminding you of the de¬ 
cayed part of the inside of an old stump. But it changes its 
appearance as you approach, and look down into • its depths. 
The angry gurgling of the water can be heard at all times many 
feet below, and occasionally the agitation is so great that it is 
thrown out over the top of the crater, together with volumes 
of rising steam. 

All of the cavities are connected below and belong to the 
same system, thus giving the appearance of a wonderful engine, 
requiring almost a supernatural power to set it in motion. The 
machinei) is rather complicated, and, after we hear the usual 
internal tlnobbings, as of Pluto s firemen dropping wood into 
a gigantic fiery furnace, it requires some little time to get things 
undei headway. 4he first thing I observed when it gave sions 
of action was the cessation of the little steam-jet, when the geyser 


nearest it began to surge at a fearful rate, throwing a great vol¬ 
ume of water to an altitude of twenty or thirty feet. It played 
bui a moment, and the next one went through a similar opera¬ 
tion, v lien, as if ashamed of their significant failures to rise in 
the world, or in honor of the grand chief of the realm who 
was about to appear, they all retired from the scene of action 
and became quiescent. Then, with a terrible rushing and rum- 


THE “GIANT” GEYSER. 


115 


bling below, with a powerful etfoit and fearful heavings that 
caused the very earth to groan, and seemed sufficient to tear the 
solid walls of the crater into a thousand atoms, the Giant came 
forth in the majesty of his mighty power. A volume of 
boiling water, the size of the nozzle of the crater, was projected 
to a great altitude, the action being repeated several times. 
Then for a moment all was quiet. Thinking it only a feint, 
we attempted to approach the orifice and make investigations, 
when we were met by an immense volume of steaming water, 
as if just from one of Hecate’s caldrons, causing another dis¬ 
orderly retreat. It now commenced in earnest, and we surely 
witnessed one of the grandest displays of water-works ever be¬ 
held by mortal eyes. The fountains of the great deep seemed 
literally to have been broken up and turned loose again upon 
our sinful world. A steady column of water, graceful, majestic, 
and vertical, except as swayed by the passing breezes, was by 
rapid and successive impulses impelled upward above the steam 
until reaching the marvelous height of more than two hun- 
dred feet. At first it appeared to labor in raising the immense 
volume, which seemed loath to start on its heavenward tour, but 
now it was with perfect ease that the stupendous column was 
held to its place, the water breaking into jets and returning in 
glittering showers to the basin. The steam ascended in dense 
volumes for thousands of feet, when it was freighted upon the 
wings of the wind and borne away in clouds. The fearful 
rumble and confusion attending it were as the sound of distant 
artillery, the rushing of many horses to battle, or the roar of a 


fearful tornado. It commenced to act at 2 p.m., and contin¬ 
ued for an hour and a half, the latter part of which it emitted 
little else but steam rushing upward from its chambers be¬ 
low, of which, if controlled, there is enough to run an engine of 
wonderful power. I advanced and stood near enough on the 


116 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


windward side to cast large masses of silica into the ascending 
volume, which were hurled with force many feet into the air. 
The waving to and fro of such a gigantic fountain when the 
column is at its highest— 

“ Tinseled o'er in robes of varying hues,” 

and glistening in the bright sunlight which adorns it with the 
glowing colors of many a gorgeous rainbow—affords a spec¬ 
tacle so wonderful and grandly magnificent, so overwhelming 
to the mind, that the ablest attempt at description gives the 
reader who has never witnessed such a display but a feeble idea 
of its glory. Our entire party were perfectly wild with en¬ 
thusiasm. We could not suppress emotion, but shouted and 
cheered till out of breath, and some fired revolvers and guns in 
the air, so great was the excitement in the presence of such a 
display. Every person in the basin—thirty-four in number— 
was soon on the ground, and lawyers, judges, professors, farm¬ 
ers, merchants, miners, and philosophers, were all alike filled 
with enthusiasm by the magnificent spectacle. A perfect river 
of water equal to the volume of the Fireliole rushed down the 
slope ; and in our excitement to get a view from every point of 
vision, we several times slightly tested its temperature by a mis¬ 
step, landing us half-way to our boot-tops in the steaming flood. 
Everv one thought the column two hundred and fifty feet high, 
though we had no means of measuring it. Its form is conical, 
much like the Faithful, and the action much the same, though that 
is not worthy of comparison in volume, length of time in action, 
and grandeur of appearance. It generally plays about once in 
twenty-four or twenty-nine hours, as nearly as yet ascertained. 
What an inconceivable power! what wonderful machinery to 
control it, in order to sustain such a river-volume at such an 


RETURN TO CAMP. 


117 


altitude, for even one hour ! and then what a furnace and boiler, 
to generate steam to repeat it every twenty-four! 

Having seen hut half the gevsers in action, and though de- 
sirous of staying a week among them, nevertheless I returned 
to camp, feeling amply compensated for all my trouble and 
travel, and ready to take my homeward march at any time, happy 
with the soul-enrapturing exhibitions which it had been my 
privilege to behold. 


CHAPTER XIII. 


Sunrise Eruptions.—Moonlight.—Firelight.—Sleeping among the Geysers.—A Cali¬ 
fornian.—The Name Geyser.—Geysers of Iceland.—Queries answered.—Break¬ 
ing Through.—Theory of Geyser-Eruption.—In Camp. 

There are hundreds 4 of springs in the basin, all differing 
more or less in some particular. There are about twenty regu¬ 
larly acting, of which those mentioned in the last chapter are 
the principal ones. On a calm, clear morning, at or just before 
sunrise, when all the springs are sending up their columns of 
steam of every magnitude, and all boiling and fussing and splash- 
i igawav, as if trying each to attract the greatest share of atten- 
tion, and while one or two of the larger geysers are piercing the 
heavens with their stupendous columns, the basin presents a 
lively and interesting spectacle. 

The eruptions as witnessed by moonlight are truly sublime, 
though deprived of much of their glory, as it is difficult to dis¬ 
tinguish between water and steam. Some of the party built 
bonfires and watched the eruptions by firelight, which were very 
fine, giving the rising volumes the appearance of fiery liquid 
hurled forth from the crater of a volcano. 

It is not the most quiet and agreeable place for sleeping. One 
is frequently disturbed during the night by the alarming deto¬ 
nations and subterranean thunder, making an almost constantly 
rumbling noise as of heavy machinery in motion, the come and 


CALIFORNIA GEYSERS. 


119 


go of ponderous freight-trains, the hiss and rush of escaping 
steam, and the loud plash of falling torrents, as the geysers, the 
ever-vigilant sentinels on the outposts of old Pluto’s infernal 
regions, sound the alarm and spout forth in the darkness* 
This is more sensibly realized by sleeping on the ground, and, 
rest assured, the sensations are not always of the most desirable 
character. 

It is conceded that the geysers of this region surpass any¬ 
thing of the kind in the known world—in number, in the vol¬ 
ume of water discharged, in frequency and length of time in 
action, and the enormous height to which the up-rusliing vol¬ 
umes are impelled by the internal forces at work. 

While on a public conveyance recently, I met with a Cali¬ 
fornian. Though not a “ Forty-niner,” yet he exhibited the 
peculiarities often ascribed to the inhabitants of the “ Golden 
State.” The big trees and the wonderful cataracts were dis¬ 
cussed, when he remarked, “ We also have some remarkable cu¬ 
riosities in our State, called geysers.” 

“ How high do your geysers spout their water? ” I asked. 

“ About four feet” he replied, with great self-complacency, 
as though he thought that surpassed anything of the kind in 
the western hemisphere. He had never been to the National 
Park. 

The term geyser (pronounced ghi-sev ) is of Icelandic origin, 
signifying vctgsv or vocivev , and was applied to that wondeiful 
group of spouting springs in Iceland, discovered in the fifteenth 
centurv, and until recently supposed to be the only spiings of 
the kind in existence. I remember well how I was thrilled by 
reading an account of them by a traveler when I was- a meie 

V. 1 

bov. There are but two of importance in the group. Their 

manner of action is much the same as that here described, but 

does not begin to compare with the wonderful exhibitions of the 
10 & 


120 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


Giant and Grand Geysers, sending their immense volumes hun¬ 
dreds of feet into the air. 

Were I a scientist, I would speak at length of the causes at 
work producing these remarkable eruptions; though I am per¬ 
suaded that a detail of all the wonderful phenomena of geyser, 
action, the various combination of gases generating heat and 
decomposing minerals, the mysterious processes of carrying them 
upward and working them into the inexplicably complicated 
geyser-tubes, requiring perhaps hundreds of years to perfect 
them, would take more space than the design of this work 
will permit. I refer the reader to the works of Tyndall, Bun¬ 
sen, and other scientists, who have discussed these questions at 
length. 

However, in order to satisfy, if possible, the minds of many 
querists who may never visit this region, I venture a few ob¬ 
servations. I have been asked a hundred times, and by 
many who read my published account of a trip to the geysers, 
if the water thrown from the geysers is cold or hot. I an¬ 
swer most emphatically that it is as hot as it can be made. 

Another asks, “ Do they spout all the time ? ” 

Of course not; for the eruptions are only caused bv the 
discharge of steam confined in the vast heated chambers below, 
seeking an outlet through these valves, which discharge takes 
place periodically. 

Another wants to know, u Were you not frightened at the 
undeiground tliunderings, and afraid lest the earth should open 
at some place and let you drop into these boiling caldrons ? ” 

I leply that, although a sensation of fear occasionally steals 
over me, yet, knowing the apparent solidity of the surface at 
most places, the great depth at which the reservoirs are located, 
and seeing so many pass safely over, such tears are soon dispelled. 
There are no signs of any recent explosions, or blow-ups, though 


CAUSES OF THE HEAT. 


121 


now and then some adventurous fellow breaks through into the 
steaming mud or scalding water. One party of horsemen were 
fording the Firehole River, when the crust gave way under the 
horses feet, and it seemed that the “ bottom of the river ” was 
indeed falling out. They escaped unhurt. 

A Catholic priest was standing near a hot spring, when the 
crust gave way, and let him into the seething caldron. The 
accident would doubtless have proved fatal, but that a strong 
man who was at his side, and happened to be standing on solid 
ground, seized him by the collar and saved him from a horrible 
death. Though he escaped without any injury whatever, 
imagine his surprise at the appearance in an Eastern paper of 
a vivid account of his untimely death, together with an illus¬ 
tration showing a party of men dragging the lifeless body of a 
monk “ all shaven and shorn,” and attired in priestly robes, from 
one of the geysers ! lie still asserts that it is a mistake, not¬ 
withstanding the statements of the newspapers to the contrary. 

Other inquisitive souls will still ask: “ Is there any fire 
about there?” “What causes the heat?” “Are there evi¬ 
dences of volcanic action up there ? ” etc. 

I saw no fire, only that which we ourselves kindled, and no 
marks of the action of real fire. There are convincing evi¬ 
dences that this whole region was once the scene of wonderful 
volcanic activities; and many think that the geysers only ex¬ 
hibit these activities in their last stages; that the heat is pro¬ 
duced by these fires still burning far down in the bowels of the 
earth. Mv own opinion is, that far below the surface there are 
vast reservoirs or vacuums, the walls of which are heated by 
contact with the various minerals which abound in inexhaustible 
quantities, combining in every conceivable proportion, and thus 
creating numerous gases. The water, coming from the moun¬ 
tains and seeping through the earth, constantly flowing into 


122 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


these gigantic boilers, is quickly heated, rapidly generating 
steam, which soon acquires such force by confinement that it 
seeks an outlet. This can only be effected by the removal of 
the water intervening between it and the valve or aperture 
through which it must pass. As it expands, the vast body of 
water is gradually raised in the geyser-tube. As the volume 
is constantly increasing, and as it is raised higher, this makes 
the pressure greater on the steam, which now, acquiring almost 
irresistible force, breaks forth from its confinement, and in 
its upward rush carries with it the boiling volumes of water to 
a stupendous height, producing the geyser-eruption in all its 
matchless glory and splendor. 

The water being removed, the steam escaping, quiet ensues^ 
while preparations are made for another display. Thus the 
action is repeated from day to day, and from year to year, and 
even from century to century. The projectile force, the amount 
of water discharged, and the intervals between eruptions, depend 
largely upon the extent of the reservoirs, the quantity of water 
fl owing in, the amount of heat, and the length of time required 
to “ get up steam.” The appearance and beauty of the foun¬ 
tain, of course, depend much upon the particular shape of the 
tube and of the orifice at the top. 

Whenever railroads come within reach, or even passable 
wagon and stage roads are completed through the Park, this 
will become a favorite place of resort for people from every 
part of the world, though I prefer going in true pioneer style 
on horseback, with a pack-horse on which to carry provisions 
and baggage. A wagon-road is now completed from Virginia 
City up the Madison to the Lower Basin. But don’t go until 
you can make the grand rounds, for the geysers, in all their 
glory, are only part of the wonders of the National Park. 

While here we met with persons from various portions of 


ROUTES TO YELLOWSTONE LAKE. 


123 


the Territory, among them a number of friends; and quite a 
sociable time we had the two evenings spent in the basin. 
After the sight-seeing of the day was over, we gathered around 
our brilliant camp-fire, and passed the time relating incidents 
and anecdotes of a pleasant character; while Miss Clark, a 
young lady from Chicago, with vocal gifts that all admired, 

/ 

charmed us with some excellent music, presenting quite a 
contrast as the charming melodies floated out upon the niglit- 
wind, and mingled with the hissing reports of a hundred noisy, 
spouting springs, the wild, weird appearance of everything 
adding greatly to the novelty of the surroundings. 

From the geysers to the Yellowstone Lake there are two 
routes—one leading up the Firehole River, and crossing the 
divide, striking the lake-shore, fifteen or twenty miles from the 
outlet, which route, however, is heavily timbered most of the 
way, and quite difficult to travel, owing to the fallen timber 
lying across the trail. The other trail returns by the Lower 
Basin, thence across to Muddy Geyser, and up the west bank of 
Yellowstone River to the lake. 


CHAPTER XIY. 


Homeward bound.—Our Caravan.—Novel Way of Traveling.—Variety the Spice of 
Life.—Cayuses.—“Bucking” Propensities.—Noble Animals.—Camp-Life: it? 
Pleasures.—A Pleasant Party.—Dream fulfilled.—Narrow Escape of “ the 
Judge.” 

On the morning of September 1st the animals were driven 
in, saddled, and camp-eqnipage stowed away carefully on the 
pack-horses ; and just as Old Faithful, a geyser so much admired 
by all, and the first to welcome us to the basin by a display of 
her powers, was now honoring us with a farewell exhibition, we 
mounted and commenced our homeward march, nearly thirty 
persons, all on horseback, with about twenty pack-animals— 
quite a caravan, and rather a novel scene, too, to one not ac¬ 
customed to mountain-life, and a stranger to this mode of trav¬ 
eling. It is rather amusing to see the little ponies (commonly 
known in the mountains as cayuses) trudging along with the 
great, bulky loads on their backs, now wading through almost 
fathomless swamps, winding their way among the densely- 
crowded pines, or ingeniously working a passage amid a net¬ 
work of fallen timber so complicated as often to present diffi¬ 
culties almost insurmountable. It is wonderful to see the cau¬ 
tion they will use in choosing the trail and avoiding contact 
with the trees, as though they felt themselves responsible for 
the safe delivery at night of the charge commmitted to them. 
Sometimes, however, patience gives way under the pressure, the 


CAYUSES. 


125 


virtue of forbearance is forgotten, and novelty and humor are 
lost in vexation, as you are called to urge your way through 
such a trackless wilderness; though now and then an amusing 
incident occurs, as a man gets caught in a net of fallen trunk' 
or overhanging boughs, loses his hat or part of his clothing, or 
perhaps is brought by awkwardness or the sudden gyrations of 
his cay use to his all-fours, face-foremost in the mud, which, 
though far from being laughable to him, furnishes amusement 
to those more fortunate, reviving the spirits of all, and veri¬ 
fying the truth of the old adage that “ variety is the spice of 
life.” 

Useful animals these little cayuses are, and perfectly harm¬ 
less when brought fully under the “ influences of civilization ; ” 
but woe to him who becomes the owner, and thus the victim , of 
one not properly domesticated! Sometimes when things go 
wrong, or their cayuse nature is revived by a day’s rest or a good 
mess of bunch-grass, they commence a performance usually 
known out West as “bucking”—placing the head between the 
forelegs and rearing and plunging, going up before, then behind, 
throwing their pedal extremities in every way but in their natural 
position, or jumping high in the air, having the happy faculty of 
bringing all their feet stoutly to the earth at the same instant. 
Then they take them up as soon, and whirl round and round 
until they are relieved of their burden, or completely exhausted 
in the attempt. They are expert at the business, which, by-tlie- 
way, is a natural propensity of theirs. The new-comer has never 
gone the round of misfortunes that mortals are heir to, nor 
become fully initiated into the experience of a mountaineer’s 
life, until he has been tumbled promiscuously a few times from 
the “ hurricane-deck of a bucking cayuse.” 

But these small horses are the main dependence of the fron¬ 
tier. They are stout, tough, and ambitious—will endure any 


120 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


amount of hardship, and subsist upon bunch-grass alone. If 
a stampede is on hand, a long ride or drive to make, a load 
to draw, Indians to chase, a prospecting expedition or a trip 
to Wonderland before you, cayuses are brought into imme- 
diate demand. There is no animal that does more service 
or endures more hardship than he, yet none more severely 
used. He will frequently carry a man a hundred miles in a 
day ; and yet, after the journey, which an American horse per¬ 
haps would not make, is ended, he is turned upon the range 
to “ rustle ” for his food, with the remark that “ he is only a 
cay use , anyhow ! ” And, considering the way he is broken to the 
saddle or harness, who would expect him not to “ buck % ” Let 
run at will upon the prairies until of mature age, having never 
seen a halter, perhaps, he is driven into the corral , lassoed round 
the neck, “ snubbed ” up to a post, choked down and blind¬ 
folded ; a great heavy saddle is “ sinched ” upon him so tightly 
that he can hardly breathe ; a Spanish bridle with heavy bit is 
put on him; then, just as he rises to his feet, a man springs into 
the saddle, the blindfold is withdrawn, the gate thrown open, 
and with a pair of great, jingling, jagged spurs digging him in 
the sides, frightened out of his senses and suffering with pain, 
he goes forth at full speed and comes back “broke”— -for the 
time. No wonder he “bucks.” He wouldn’t be worth a cent 
if he did not. 

But I will not apologize too much, for more than once have 

I been the unfortunate and unhappy victim of these creatures 

while exhibiting their striking propensities in a very forcible 

manner, and just when I was not expecting it, when thinking 

there was no earthlv cause for such conduct. Thev are not at 

** «/ 

all careful where or how they leave you, and you generally 
come down in the most unfavorable position conceivable—on 
your head or the flat of your back, and maybe right in a bed of 


ADVENTURE WITH A CAYUSE. 


127 


prickly pears. Pray to be delivered from such misfortunes 
when you come West! 

t/ 

Captain W. W r . Delacy, in his account of a prospecting tour 
up the Snake River in 1863, published in “ Contributions to 
the Historical Society of Montana,” vol. i., in which tour, by- 
the-wav, he claims to have passed through the Lower Geyser 
Basin, refers humorously to an adventure with a cayuse. It is 
characteristic, and quite amusing. He says: “I had a white, 
bob-tailed cayuse (usually called Muggins), who had the peculi¬ 
arity of having one eye black and the other of a very light blue. 
When you looked at him on one side, he had a very obstinate 
and devilish look, as if he was up to any mischief (and so he 
was). Looking at him on the other, he seemed a very good 
natured, steady old horse, with a tendency toward religion. 
He had other peculiarities besides these, among which was, 
that when you tried to lead him, he wouldn’t go anywhere, if 
he could help it, and, if you let him go loose, you could not 
catch him under an hour. 

“ This evening, as the wind was cold, and he had been good 
for a long time, he concluded that the time had come to distin¬ 
guish himself. He was just before me, and, looking around, 
he cocked his black eye at me, as much as to say, ‘ Look out for 
squalls!’ and gave two or three preliminary kicks, which threw 
off the pack, which he met with his heels, and sent the coffee¬ 
pot, frying-pan, a piece of elk, a chunk of bread, and other mis¬ 
cellaneous articles, into the air. He then galloped around, scat¬ 
tering the rest of the kit over the prairie, and, when he ascer¬ 
tained that there was no more mischief to be done, he let himself 
be caught, and, when I came up, he turned his blue eye on me 
with such an expression of contrite humility and self-reproach, 
that I had not the heart to give him the thrashing he richly 
deserved, and repacked him in silence and went on my way.” 


128 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


At another place in his journal he says : u As my pack-horse, 
who was an independent animal, and had notions of his own, 
declined being driven, I was compelled to drag him, and, for 
that purpose, had taken a hitch with the lariat around the 
horn of the saddle. The pack becoming disarranged, I dis¬ 
mounted to fix it, and, while doing this, my riding-horse com¬ 
menced capering around, and in some way got the rope across 
the lock of the gun, and caused it to go off directly toward me, 
the ball passing just over my head. There is always some con¬ 
solation in the worst misfortunes, however, and, wdien I got 
over my scare, I felt very thankful that he had not fired the 
other barrel at me, which was loaded with buck-shot.” 

However, our road is not all so rough, nor misfortunes so 
numerous, after all. Much of the way is through an open coun¬ 
try, with delightful landscape-views before the eve, yet abound¬ 
ing with picturesque beauties, making the trip altogether quite 
pleasant when the weather is mild. The day is usually spent 
in observing the curiosities along the route. Toward evening, 
as the sun is approaching the towering summits of the western 
mountains, the expedition halts, usually in some lovely park by 
the side of a sparkling mountain-stream, when the horses, re¬ 
lieved of their burdens, are lariated, hoppled, or turned loose 
upon the grass. A cheerful fire, made of dry pine, is soon 
blazing, and, while some are shooting grouse or ducks, or look¬ 
ing out for elk or deer, and others fishing for trout, the even¬ 
ing repast is prepared, for which you are sure to have a relish. 
Supper over, the tents are stretched, and beds, robes, mattresses, 
or blankets, as the case may b^, are spread upon the ground or 
on pine-boughs or bunch-grass, and made ready for the night. 
The party then usually gather in a group around the fire, and 
discuss the curiosities observed during the day, or all listen at¬ 
tentively to anecdotes or some thrilling narration of Western 


MOUNTAIN-COOKING. 


129 


adventure, when all lay them down, and sweetly sleep till 
morning. 

It is amazing to see the economy practised by the moun¬ 
taineer in the make-up of the culinary department. With a 
frying-pan, camp-kettle, and a coffee-pot, his supply of cooking 
utensils is complete, and, with a few staple articles in the way 
of groceries, he will fare sumptuously every day. You would 
be surprised at the variety of dishes that he will serve up even 
from a limited larder. 

Our cook was proud of his expertness in the culinary art, 
and one morning concluded to have cakes—commonly known 
among the mountaineers as “ slapjacks ”—for breakfast. When 
browned on one side, with a quick, artistic movement he would 
flip them up in the frying-pan, and turn them with all ease, and 
with no little satisfaction to himself. He called upon the ladies 
and the entire party who sat by the Are to witness an exhibition 
of his skill. a Just see how I can flip ’em over! ” lie said. All 
eyes being turned, he gave his arm a twitch—up went the cakes, 
whirling over and over. But, alas for John’s pride! his 
nerves were too highly strung; he overdid himself, and spoiled 
it all. Down came the cakes, missing the frying-pan and fall¬ 
ing into the fire, to the infinite amusement of all present, except 
the mortified cook, whose countenance was soon below zero. 
He repeated the operation afterward with better success; but 
never desired spectators, nor permitted criticism. 

On the return-trip my good-natured traveling-companion 
and myself would usually construct a wickiup of pine-boughs, 
which was almost as comfortable as a house. However, one 
stormy night, when we most needed a covering, we were com¬ 
pelled to seek shelter under a single blanket, stretched across a 
pole over our bed, and, strange as it appears, we slept soundly 
till morning. There is nothing like “ getting used to things.” 


130 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


In our party, on the return-trip, were W. II. Todd, of Hele¬ 
na ; Hon. Hiram Knowles, one of the Associate Judges of Mon¬ 
tana ; and a young man by the name of Robbins, from New York. 
These gentlemen were congenial traveling-companions, and 
added greatly to the pleasure of the journey. Traveling in 
company with us was also a party of very pleasant gentlemen 
from Deer-Lodge City, among whom were Hon. Granville 
Stewart, one of the old pioneers, and now an honored citizen 
of Montana; Prof. Egbert Smith, and others, who are remem¬ 
bered with pleasure. We generally camped in close proximity, 
and passed the evening hours around one camp-fire. 

While in the Park we also on several occasions were thrown 
in company with Colonel W. F. Sanders, who, with his wit and 
constant flow of good-nature, contributed much to the life and 
merriment of the entire party. 

There is no mode of life better calculated to develop every 
trait of human character than camp-life. Every virtue will 
be surely and severely tested, and every vice is certain to show 
itself. Wit, wisdom, humor, cheerfulness, patience, and indus¬ 
try, are in demand, and their opposites at a discount. If a 
man is lazy, fretful, or disagreeable, it soon shows itself around 
the camp-fire. And what can be more disagreeable than the 
strifes and bickerings of fellow-travelers, who hitherto were on 
the most intimate terms? But they are of frequent occurrence. 
Persons who have been warm friends for years will often fall 
out and become bitter enemies the first week in camp. Noth¬ 
ing, however, is more pleasurable than traveling in such a 
country as this, with a genial party like ours, wdiere each is con¬ 
cerned for the pleasure of the others. Long will we remember 
the many happy hours spent around the camp-fire with our 
traveling-companions, and more than once will we meet and 
recount the incidents of this eventful tour. 


A DREAM FULFILLED. 


131 


We camped at night near the source of a small stream, the 
waters of which find their way into the Madison. The latter 
stream is one of the largest of the three rivers that unite near 
Gallatin City to form the Missouri. We were, therefore, on the 
head-waters of the “ Big Muddy ” itself. I remember, when 
but a small boy, and living on the bank of the Missouri, which 
at that place is a mighty river, of a dream in which I was wafted 
on fairy wings away to the source of that wonderful stream, 
where, with one or two boyish companions, I was leaping across 
the miniature water-course—there only a brook—with great 
delight. 

Afterward, as I traced on the big map that hung on the wall 
the meanderings of the grand old river to where it appeared to 
lose itself among its wild environs, I thought how strange and 
foolish the dream, and how absurd the ideas that it awakened 
in my youthful mind! I could but think of it all, as I stepped 
across the little rivulet that rippled along in its course so near 
our camp; and more than once I have stood upon some high 
mountain overlooking the thousands of tributaries that help to 
swell the volume of one of the grandest rivers of the world, or 
in my journey dismounted and leaped across some little brook¬ 
let not far from the summit of the Rocky Mountains, with a 
strange sense of boyish dreams fulfilled, and long-clierislied am¬ 
bition gratified. 

Ascending and descending the rugged steep along the trail 
are often quite laborious, and it is frequently found advisable to 
dismount and walk over the worst places. But our jolly friend 

Judo’e G-, who rode a hired horse, and being quite corpulent, 

too, persisted in riding every step of the way, up hill and down. 
While going up a very steep mountain the saddle slipped back 
to a place not the most agreeable to the sensitive cayuse that he 
was riding. The animal began to make foicible effoits to 



132 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


“ raise ” the judge, which, if successful, would have been fol¬ 
lowed by rather a sudden “ letting down.” He called lustily 
for help, which a moment later would have been unavailing. 
But he was rescued from the threatened and much-dreaded 
calamity, and the cavalcade moved forward. 

Among those persons whom we met on the way to and 
through the Park—who are remembered with pleasure—are 
Col. Deimling, Pat Largey, D. P. Newcomer, Charley Aspling, 
Mr. Frazier, Mrs. George McFaddin, Miss Lena McFad- 
din, John Hildebrand, Judge Symmes, Bart Henderson, Mr. 
Daly and family, Mr. Fitzgerald and family, C. J. Baronette, 
Fred Bottler, of Yellowstone Valley, and E. H. Chrisman, 
photographer. 






YELLOWSTONE LAKE. 
































































































































































































































































































































































CHAPTER XY. 


Trip to the Yellowstone Lake.—Description of the Lake.—Dimensions.—Depth.— 
Huge Bear-Tracks.—A Cold Bath.—Swans and other Water-fowls.—Swarms of 
Trout,—Intestinal Affection.—Not hungry for Fish.—Numerous Islands.—Mr. 
Stevenson’s Visit.—Wild Beasts.—Once trod by the Red-Man.—Tradition.—Hot 
Spring in the Lake.—Cooking Fish.—Mountaineer’s Idea of the Lake.—Con¬ 
jecture.—Mr. Everts’s Adventure.—Is lost, and wanders for Thirty-seven Days.— 
Lives on Thistle-Roots.—Attacked by a Mountain-Lion.—Thrilling Account.— 
Miraculous Deliverance.—Splendid Place in which to spend the Summer.— 
Mountains.—Inspiring Scenes. 


On our return, we traveled part of the way on the trail made 
going over, encamping in a clump of pines near Muddy Gey¬ 
ser, on the banks of the Yellowstone. The following morn¬ 
ing, the 3d of September, after a long search for our animals, 
which had again played truant, and were not brought in till 
noon, I mounted my horse, and, after a delightful ride of six 
miles southward along the densely-wooded banks of the placid 
river, fed by a thousand silvery streamlets that trickle down 
from the mountains, and observing now and then a flock of 
graceful swans playing upon the emerald-tinted surface of the 
Yellowstone, we were suddenly ushered from the dense forest, 
shaded by overhanging mountains, into a delightful, grassy 
park, where, before our astonished and wondering eyes, spread 
out, in all its native beauty and loveliness, the famed Yellow¬ 
stone Lake, which is far from being the least of the attractions 

found on our u rambles in Wonderland.” It is a wonderful 
II 


134 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


sheet of water, fifteen miles in width, and estimated to be 
twenty or twenty-five in length. Its shores are indented with 
bays and inlets which are fringed with pine-forests, with now 
and then a meadow-like opening, to add to the variety and 
give greater beauty to the scene. 

The enthusiastic Langford, the superintendent of the park, 
pays the following handsome tribute to this inland sea: 

“ Secluded amid the loftiest peaks of the Rocky Mountains, 
possessing strange peculiarities of form and beauty, this watery 
solitude is one of the most attractive objects in the world. Its 
southern shore, indented with long, narrow inlets, not unlike 
the frequent fiords of Iceland, bears testimony to the awful up¬ 
heaval and tremendous force of the elements which resulted in 
its erection. The long pine-crowned promontories, stretching 
into it from the base of the hills, lend new and charming features 
to an aquatic scene full of novelty and splendor. Islands of 
emerald hue dot its surface, and a margin of sparkling sand 
forms its setting. The winds, compressed in their passage 
through the mountain-gorges, lash it into a sea as terrible as 
the fretted ocean, covering it with foam. But now it lay be¬ 
fore us calm and unruffled, save as the gentle wavelets broke 
in murmurs along the shore. Water, one of the grandest ele¬ 
ments of scenery, never seemed so beautiful before.” 

This picture may appear overdrawn, yet it is in harmony 
with our own emotions when we first stood on the shore, and must 
agree, in part, with the sentiments awakened in every Nature- 
admiring beholder. I was most agreeably disappointed in the 
beauty of the scene, and, though lingering for hours, feasting 
my eyes upon the enchanting beauties made strange and novel 
by the wild, weird appearance of the surroundings, at last 
turned my steps homeward with regrets that I could not stay 
longer. 

o 


YELLOWSTONE LAKE. 


135 


This islet of water reposes upon the crown of our North 
American Continent, near the source of the three great rivers 
of the United States, at an altitude of nearly seven thousand 
five hundred feet, far above the loftiest clouds that cast their 
shadows over New England homes, or float in the azure sky of 
the sunny South. Its superficial area is three hundred square 
miles, and its greatest soundings are about three hundred feet. 
It has no iidets of note, save the Yellowstone, which runs 
through, and is its only outlet. This stream and a few small 
torrents that rush down from the mountains are its only feeders, 
it being principally supplied by the “ eternal snows ” from the 
lofty ranges environing it. At morning and evening, when 
the atmosphere is calm, and the bright sunlight falls upon the 
placid surface of emerald hue, in which is reflected the over¬ 
arching canopy, the beholder is filled with admiring wonder, 
and in the midst of such awe-inspiring influences is tempted to 
bow the knee and worship at Nature’s shrine. In the middle 
of the day, when the mountain-winds come down from their 
fastnesses, it assumes an appearance more in accordance with its 
wild surroundings. Its shape somewhat resembles that of an 
open hand, the long, narrow bays stretching out to the south¬ 
ward reminding you of the fingers. The shores sparkle with 
volcanic pebbles, carnelians, petrifactions, and numerous speci¬ 
mens, some of which are of great beauty. 

But the first thing I noticed when I stepped upon the beach 
was the track of a huge bear, quite in accordance, thought I, 
with the surroundings, which for a while disturbed sentimental 
reflections, and, being alone, naturally enough caused me to ad¬ 
just my fire-arms, so as to be ready, on short notice, for a recep¬ 
tion by Bruin, upon whose dominions I was intruding. The 
water was so clear that, deceived in its temperature by that of 
the atmosphere, which was rather cool, I was tempted to go 


136 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


bathing, and swam out into the crystal depths fifty or sixty 
yards, and came back fully satisfied with one such adventure. 

Numerous flocks of fowls of almost every species throng the 
shore and dot the surface; and I could but think what a quiet, 
safe retreat it is for them, where they can rear their young; 
but now their resort has been discovered, and already they be¬ 
gin to fall before the sharp crack of the hunter’s rifle and the 
shrill report of the sportsman’s fowling-piece. Beautiful swans, 
with snowy plumage and graceful form, may be seen here and 
there, while pelicans, gulls, geese, brants, and many kinds of 
ducks, abound. 

The lake, as well as the river, literally swarms with speckled 
trout of great beauty, and some of excellent flavor, which are 
easily taken with hook and line. But most of them have some 
kind of an affection which destroys the satisfaction one would 
otherwise enjoy in eating them. The intestines are often 
covered with small worms, which are frequently found in the 
flesh, softening it, and giving the fish a sickly look. Some 
of our party, who were out of meat, insisted that they were 
“just as good as any fish,” though, as I could not shut my eyes 
while eating, I happened not to be hungry for trout. This 
affection seems to characterize those only in the lake and above 
the Great Falls, and their existence constitutes a problem that 
the ichthyologist has not yet solved. 

The surface of the lake is broken by the uprising of sev¬ 
eral small islands. The first explorers constructed a rude crafty 
in which they sailed over the lake and visited one or two of 
the principal islands. Mr. Stevenson found them covered with 
large pine-timber, abounding in dense jungles, the safe retreat 
of bears, mountain-lions, deer, and other game, the signs of 
which were but too evident. He found an arrow-head, which 
is good evidence that the island had been trodden by human 


SHORES OF THE LAKE. 


137 


beings, if never before by the white man. Doubtless u the 
noble red-man” roamed these forests in search of game, and 
paddled his canoe from island to island in gleeful sport, hun¬ 
dreds of years ago. The curiously-formed stones along the 
pebbly strand, in the old trapper s fancy, were the war-clubs, 
arrow-heads, and other utensils, of a strange class of beings, and 
doubtless oiiginated the traditions afloat concerning’ a race of 
people who once inhabited this region, but are now extinct. 

The explorers also made the complete circuit of this vast 
sheet of water, penetrating the trackless woods and fearful 
swamps, and encountering almost insuperable difficulties. The 
timber is so dense that every few years it is burned out, leaving 
the trunks standing until sufficiently dead, when they are swept 
by a violent wind, and piled up in every conceivable manner, 
presenting an obstruction that is quite trying to the patient, 
adventurous equestrian. They are called “ tire-slashes.” 

In the basin around the lakes are numerous liot-spring de¬ 
posits, and some of the springs are yet in action. At one place 
there is a white cone, almost surrounded by the water of the 
lake, projecting several feet above the surface, on the apex of 
which is a funnel-shaped crater, full of boiling water. You can 
stand on the formation and catch trout, and, without moving 
from your tracks, if cruel enough, can cook them without their 
removal from the line. 

I remember hearing an old mountaineer tell of a lake, on the 
very summit of the Rocky Mountains, from which the water 
flowed into both oceans. I think he got it from Bridger, who 
used to talk of a “ Two-World Lake.” He thought it was the 
Yellowstone Lake, and accounted for the existence of salmon- 
trout in the Yellowstone River—the only place where this 
species abounds on the east of the mountains, though quite 
abundant in the waters of the Pacific slope—by their having 


138 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


ascended the streams on the other side to the lake, and then 
descended into this river. But, like many other conjectures, 
it has proved to be without foundation. 

It was while exploring the shores of this lake that Mr. Everts 
was lost from his party, and soon became confused and strange¬ 
ly bewildered, losing his horse, which he said broke away from 
him, carrying with it his fire-arms and all his personal effects. 
His party searched diligently, but in vain. They also cached 
supplies, but he never found them. They were compelled to 
leave, as provisions were short, and thinking, too, that he iiad 
started homeward, and that they would overtake him; and he 
wandered about in this wilderness for thirty-seven days , with¬ 
out shelter and without food, save a few fish caught with a 
pin and the roots that he gathered in his wanderings, which 
were cooked in a hot spring. He saw game in abundance, but 
had not a weapon with him to take it, and narrowly escaped 
being torn to pieces by a mountain-lion, which made the forest 
echo with its hideous screams while it walked around the tree 
that he had ascended, lashing the ground with its tail. During 
a severe snow-storm his only couch was the warm crust near a 
hot spring, and a few pine-branches his only covering, his blank¬ 
ets having been left on the horse. In his reduced state he said 
that the members of his body seemed to be transformed into 
traveling-companions, which tantalized him with their hideous 
appearance and the demands they made upon him in his imagi¬ 
nary conversations with them. The stomach complained con¬ 
stantly of his diet—thistle-roots—and demanded better food \ 
the legs complained of want of rest, and the arms of being 
overtaxed, while he was doing all he could for them; and they 
seemed absolutely to refuse to do anything toward helping 
themselves. He would strive to quiet them by promises of 
better times when they w T ere at home. Fortunately, he had a 


VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAINS. 


139 


field-glass, with which he obtained fire when the sun shone. 
Several times he was ready to give up in despair, when thoughts 
of the loved ones at home, and of how sad they would be, in¬ 
spired him to continued efforts, nerving him with almost super¬ 
natural strength, thus enabling him to survive till his rescuers 
found him on a mountain near the Mammoth Springs. They 
had been sent out by his friends. He was found in a famished 
condition—a mere skeleton—but, with kind treatment, he re¬ 
covered ; and while we were on our trip we met him returning 
from a second tour to Wonderland, which doubtless was much 
more satisfactory. The story of his marvelous adventure and 
miraculous escape has been published, and is a most thrilling 
narrative. 

Along the shores of this inland sea would be a delightful 
place to spend a summer, and I longed for a week's time to 
occupy myself in exploring its mysteries and enjoying its attrac¬ 
tions, which are many. 

The views from the tops of those snowy mountains over 
there to the southward must be overwhelmingly grand—stand¬ 
ing almost on the crest of the world, up among the clouds, look¬ 
ing down upon the pinnacling summits of thousands of glistening 
“ snowy minarets,’' vying in beauty and rivaling each the other 
for preeminence. Then, between, are the craggy, shelving sides, 
immense gorges, rounded knolls, and lonely defiles, with clusters 
of lesser buttes crowned with numerous, rusty-looking, breccia¬ 
like spiral summits, reminding one of the ruins of some ancient 
city with domes and castles, the remnants of departed glory and 
prosperitv. There are a hundred lovely lakelets hid away in 
the dreary solitude. The steam curling up over the pines from 
innumerable vents gives the appearance of civilization; while 
far, far away to the east, west, north, and south, as far as the 
range of vision can be extended, are outlines of landscapes, and 


140 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


mountains melting away in the clouds as if uniting terrestrial 
with celestial glory, clothing things earthly with the tapestry 
of the heavenly world. Who is not inspired when amid the 
mountains ? 

I was once permitted in a mountain-scene to behold as per¬ 
fect a picture of the journey of life and the outlines of the Ce¬ 
lestial City as can ever be witnessed this side the New Jerusa¬ 
lem itself. The sky above me was almost obscured with in¬ 
tervening clouds, while down the river, at the lower end of 
the Gallatin Yalley, was a dark, threatening cloud, extending 
across the valley and enshrouding the mountains on either side. 
It hung right over the Missouri River; was very low, and ex¬ 
ceedingly threatening in its appearance. I had been thinking 
that day of the journey of the Israelites through the wilderness, 
and of how beautifully it illustrated the journey of life— 

“. . . . through the vale and the shadow, 

Through sorrow, temptation, and care.” 

The picture before me was complete. The clouds often ap¬ 
pear darker as we approach the river. But just then my eye 
passed between the descending showers of snow, which reminded 
me of the folds of a vast curtain closing for a moment and then 
opening again—and such a view! I never can forget it. Be¬ 
yond the threatening cloud, and beyond the river, the sky was 
clear, and never before had it appeared so blue. The moun¬ 
tain, mantled with snow and dotted with pine-groves, ascended 
from the river in terraces, gradually receding, yet towering to a 
great height. The sun covered all with a flood of glory. The 
terraces, slopes, and shadows, resembled the walls, arches, and 
domes, of a beautiful city, with streets, mansions, and tem¬ 
ples, burnished with gold, and skirted with fields and lovely 
landscapes. Bathed in the bright sunlight, it reminded me of 


AN INSPIRING PICTURE. 


141 


the Celestial City itself. The effect was inspiring. 1 was over¬ 
come with emotion, and felt that “ but thinly the vale inter¬ 
vened between the fair city and me.” I was for the moment 
carried away, in spirit, from earth, and imagined myself on the 
“glittering strand,” passing through the shining portals and up 
the “ golden streets,” meeting in my way the glorious inhabi¬ 
tants of the celestial region. It was a picture that will never 
fade from memory. And often while viewing a gorgeous sun¬ 
set in the mountains, or feasting the eye upon a lovely land¬ 
scape, the outlines—the “ golden portals ”—of the home of the 
soul, over there in the sweet by-and-by beyond the clouds and 
beyond the tomb, where the sun never sets and the clouds dis¬ 
appear forever, seem to appear in the distance. 

No wonder the superstitious Blackfoot imagines that, from 
a place where such beauty and glory meet the enraptured vision, 
he can look over into the happy hunting-grounds. 

It was one of the peaks of the Wind River range, away to 
the south of Yellowstone Lake, that Captain Bonneville ascend¬ 
ed in his endeavor to cross that range, and of which he gives 
such a glowing description. 


CHAPTER XVI. 


Lake-Shore.—Hunting.—The Bear.—The Moose.—Mountain-Grouse.—“ Fool-Hens.”" 
—Sage-Chickens.—Panther or Mountain-Lion.—Lassoing a Bear.—Beaver.— 
Their Homes. — Industry. — Desolation. — Charming Solitude. — Homeward 
bound.—Camping in the Rain.—Return to Mammoth Springs.—The Parting.— 
On to Bottler’s Ranch.—Preaching on Sunday.—A Refreshing Time.—Indian 
“ Scare.”—A Stampede.—Running for Life.—Arrival at Bozeman.—Cordial 
Reunions.—Ample Compensation. 


The lake-shore and surrounding woodlands afford excellent 
opportunities for the sportsman to indulge his ruling propen¬ 
sity. Resides the myriads of water-fowl, abundance of wild 
game, such as deer, elk, moose, bear, mountain-lions, etc., is found 
in woodland, jungle, and park. The game is usually driven 
from the trail to more secluded regions, and cannot he found 
without hunting. You can have your choice, from the moun¬ 
tain-grouse that inhabit the fir-trees, to the panthers or hears that 
skulk in the jungle. The sensible mountaineer, however, will 
persist, when you talk of hunting, that he “hasn’t lost any bar.” 
These animals are quite plentiful in Montana and in the Park, 
and are often quite ferocious. Lewis and Clarke had many en¬ 
counters with them, and record hair-breadth escapes from them. 
They seldom attack a man, however, except when they have 
young, or are wounded and pressed by their pursuers. But it 
is well at such times to “make yourself scarce.’’ Many a poor 
man has been hunted, and compelled to seek refuge among the 
branches of a friendly tree, where he would often hang in sus- 


THE ELK. 


143 


pense until relieved by bis companions, or until bis belligerent 
enemy would become disgusted with u such little business," and 
depart. Sometimes they will congregate in numbers and watch 
their frightened foe, who, in his rapid flight, has left his weap¬ 
ons on the field of battle, until the break of day. I have never 
seen any here save the grizzly, which are the most ferocious, a 
few of which I have met in my travels in the mountains. I 
usually offer them the road. Cinnamon and black bears also 
abound; but all of them are quick-scented and shy, and you 
scarcely ever meet with them in your rambles. 

The most remarkable animal of these regions is the moose, 
and the most unearthly, hideous-looking monster that roams the 
mountains on four legs. He belongs to the elk family, though he 
is much larger ; is covered with long, coarse, shaggy-looking hair, 
which in spring-time is nearly black ; has a short thick neck, ugly 
head, much like that of a mule, small eye, ears like small saddle- 
skirts, which hang in a slouchy manner, with the most monstrous 
nose and upper lip, that hangs like a fiap over the mouth, and 
dangles about quite amusingly when he is in motion. The male 
has large, ugly, palmated or web-like horns, which with his pro¬ 
digious nose and lip complete the catalogue of astonishing pio- 
portions, constituting him the most uncomely animal of the 
West. His haunt is in the quiet, brushy, marshy glens of the 
mountains. He is easily approached and taken, if you have the 
“ wind,” and can see him before he starts. But, when once on 
the run, he is hard to capture, being on the alert for many hours 
after. The moose feeds upon willows, “ larb,” and various other 
shrubs and branches of trees. His usual gait is a trot, which 
will often surpass the speed of a fleet horse. When excited, 
the animal changes his gait to a most awkward lope, throwing 
his long legs promiscuously about, which greatly lessens its 
speed. The flesh is not sought after, save the nose, which con- 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


144 

stitutes quite a dish with the old mountaineer. “No accounting 
for tastes, you know.” 

Numerous liocks of mountain-sheep roam the “ rugged 
steeps ” and clamber among the rocks. They have heads and 
horns something like the sheep, though they are formed like the 
deer, being about the same size. The males have enormous 
horns. The flesh is delicious. They live among the rocks, and 
scamper over the cliffs, leaping from crag to crag with great 
alacrity. This is their haunt; and, when pursued, they at cnce 
flee to the rocks, where they find quite a safe retreat. 

The mountains are full of grouse. They live among the fir- 
trees, and are easily captured. They generally sit until you are 
right upon them, when they start simultaneously with a flutter¬ 
ing, flapping sound, often annoying, if you are in search of 
larger game, as this is a note of alarm to the elk or watchful 
deer. But they often perch upon the dead timber, where they 
remain until you can shoot the entire flock. Splendid game 
they are for the inexperienced gunner; for, if you miss the 
first time, they kindly sit still and give you another shot. They 
will often sit or run by the road-side, and the driver slays them 
with his whip, or knocks them over with a club. For this re¬ 
markable trait they are frequently known as “ fool-hens ”—a sug¬ 
gestive title. The flesh is white and delicious. The sage-hen 
is much larger—nearly as large as the domestic turkey. It 
is found among the sage-bushes, the leaves of which consti¬ 
tute much of its food, giving the meat a dark color and a sagy 
taste, especially in the fall of the year. 

I mention the mountain-lions, whose lairs are found in the 
jungles and caves of these mountains. They are a species of 
panther, and many think them to be the same as the panthers of 
the States. They are not numerous, and live mostly in the 
“ secret corners of the earth.” They are seldom seen, and are 


MOUNTAIN-LIONS AND BEAVERS. 


145 


not considered ferocious, except when followed to tlieir haunts, 
though Mr. Everts says he was pursued by one of them. They 
are occasionally captured by the expert hunter. A friend of 
mine says he caught one far away from the timber—upon a 
journey, I suppose—attacked it, when it showed a cowardly 
spirit, refused to fight, and became an easy prey. This was 
equal to the feat, accomplished in Madison Valley, of lassoing a 
l)ear and killing him with stones. The day being warm and 
pleasant, Bruin had sauntered forth on a visit or journey to an¬ 
other range. When far out upon the prairie, he was espied by a 
denizen of the valley, who gave the alarm and gathered a posse / 
and, the day being exceedingly hot, Mr. Bruin soon succumbed 
to his captors, who in their great haste, strange to say, had for¬ 
gotten their guns, and literally, so it is said, stoned him to 
death—partly in revenge for his cruelty in chasing their friends 
when out hunting, and partly for the nightly visits he had made 
to their pig-sties and calf-pens, though mostly, I suppose, out 
of sheer prejudice against the Bruin family. 

But we cannot leave this place before speaking of another 
very notable little animal of a species so numerous along the 
rivers, swamps, and lakes, of the mountains—the beaver. The 
proofs of the industry and untiring energy of these little creat¬ 
ures are found everywhere along the streams in the number of 
fallen trees, and the thousands of ingeniously-constructed dams 
spanning the smaller water-courses. Their long, sharp teeth 
enable them to fell good-sized trees, the limbs of which are carried 
and placed in position, when they are plastered with mud, the 
industrious little workers using their broad, flat tails for the 
double purpose of “ hod ” and “ trowel.” They are most ingen¬ 
ious mechanics and untiring in their labors. If their work is 
destroyed, they go at once to the task of rebuilding. They are 
very shy, for you seldom get sight of them while at work, and 


146 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


very difficult to entrap by one not thoroughly acquainted with 
their habits. But the thousands of broken and unrepaired 
dams, ruins of vacant homes, the half-notched trees, where no 
one was left to finish the work, tell the sad havoc that has been 
made among these noble and valuable little animals by the in¬ 
genious trapper, and only repeat the story of the desolation 
that will in a few years pervade the now densely-inhabited 
“ beaver-towns ” amid these remote mountains and valleys. 
They are very numerous on many of the tributaries putting into 
the Yellowstone Lake. 

But, to return to the lake-shore, from which I have wan¬ 
dered so far. I strolled along the pebbly strand for hours, gath¬ 
ering specimens, meditating upon the wonders and beauties of 
the place, and watching and listening to the requiem of the 
wavelets as they broke in murmurs along the shore, until re¬ 
minded by the lengthening shadows that night would soon find 
me alone in this desert wilderness, as all my companions had 
gone. Taking leave ot this charming solitude, which is to-day 
associated in my mind with some of the delightful memories of 
the past, thinking of the busied multitudes of pleasure-seekers 
that will, in a few years, throng these shores, and almost hear¬ 
ing the plash of oars, mingled with the voices of merry tourists, 
that will ring out upon the atmosphere, as beautiful yachts and 
fleet sail-boats, filled with gleeful parties of delighted people, 
will be seen playing upon the smooth surface, I rode back to 
camp, when, after our evening repast, followed by the usual 
chat, and a salute from the noisy, splashing, turbulent Muddy 
Geyser, I retired to rest in the rude bower of pine-branches to 
dream of the pleasures and comforts of home. Next day we 
continued our journey homeward. We spent the Sabbath at 
Mammoth Springs, having been out from this place just thirteen 
days. Here, with regret, I parted from my excellent travel- 


INDIAN RAIDS. 


147 


ing-companions, my associations with wnom will always he 
remembered only with feelings of pleasure. 

On Monday I returned to Bottler’s ranch on the Yellow¬ 
stone, where, as the Indians were reported troublesome between 
there and Bozeman, I remained a week with kind friends, 
spending the time most delightfully in visiting during the week, 
and preaching on Sunday to a respectable audience in Mr. Bot¬ 
tler’s new residence. I took the names of five persons for 
membership in the church, which number would be greatly in¬ 
creased if they could only have a regular pastor. It was a re¬ 
freshing time, as minister and people for the first time, away 
here in this apparent wilderness on the banks of the Yellow¬ 
stone, in plain view of scores of Indian lodges, met to worship 
God together. We felt that the Lord of hosts was with us, 
and that our hearts were refreshed with the baptism of the 
Holy Spirit. Long will I remember that occasion and those 
dear friends. 

I found the inhabitants of the valley greatly excited about 
the Indians just at this time. A party of Sioux had made a dash 
on the Crow Agency after my visit there, killing two men, and 
had been seen skulking in the mountains toward Bozeman. A 
raid was expected nightly, and all was confusion. An old gen¬ 
tleman and his wife, living alone in a cabin, hearing repeated 
reports of a gun on the mountain one day, fled for dear life, 
with surprising speed, for persons of their age, to the next 
house, shouting, “Indians! Indians!” as they went, thinking 
the red-skins were right on them, and that the next moment 
they would be scalped. Of course the neighbors were alarmed, 
and stood at their doors with loaded guns. They were some¬ 
what relieved, however, when they saw a man coming down 
the road with a half-dozen grouse, which he had been shooting 
with his revolver, and which had caused the alarm. 


148 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


As the majority of the Crow warriors had gone on their 
buffalo-hunt, and the Sioux were known to be in this region, it 
was policy to be well prepared, and I confess to a little “ scare ” 
myself as I returned to Bozeman on Monday. Just at the place 
where the Indians were supposed to he, I saw a party of horse¬ 
men, with some loose animals, approaching, and, being but two 
of us together, though well armed, for a few moments we were 
kept in anxious suspense. We were greatly relieved when the 
horsemen were found to be friendly—whites. 

One of the most thrilling incidents related in the history of 
Western adventure, showing the true character of the Crow In¬ 
dians, and displaying the daring and true bravery of Montana’s, 
early pioneers, occurred some distance below the Bozeman 
Crossing, on this valley, early in the spring of 1863. A party of 
fifteen men, under Captain James Stuart, were on their way 
from Bannock City, to explore the Lower Yellowstone and Big- 
Horn Yalleys, and to prospect the adjacent mountains for gold. 
One evening, when in camp on the north bank of the Yellow¬ 
stone, a large party of Crow Indians made their appearance 
and came into camp. They soon became insolent, and would 
steal every thing they could lay their hands upon. Early next 
morning the men, fearing trouble, began to saddle their horses 
and make arrangements for any emergency that might arise. 
But the Indians would not let them bridle a horse, and began 
to take possession themselves, even quarreling among them¬ 
selves as to who should have the best horses. 

Presently the brave captain of the little band, catching the 
head chief of the Crows off his guard and away from his men, 
leveled his unerring rifle at the chief’s heart, fiercely reproached 
him for his bad faith to the whites, and told him to “ signal 
his warriors off, or he would send him to his last hunting- 
ground.Every man at the same instant covered a savage 


THRILLING NARRATIVE. 


149 


with his gun or revolver, while their robes fell from their 
shoulders, and their guns were leveled in the faces of the whites 
in return. The crisis had come, and the suspense must have 
been awful, as that little band of prospectors, hundreds of miles- 
from reenforcements or relief, stood surrounded by twice their 
number of savages, whose snake-like, fiendish eyes were turned 
upon them, and their guns cocked and just waiting for the or¬ 
der to fire. But the old chief saw that he was gone if a hand 
moved, and he weakened, signaling his warriors away. So 
great was the relief from the fearful suspense of a moment 
before, that one of the men threw up his hat and shouted with 
laughter. This so aroused a young chief, a u tall, fine-looking 
young warrior, and as brave as Julius Caesar,” who was pale 
with rage, because the old chief had not signaled the fight, 
that he came up and put his finger on his white brother’s 
nose, then on his own, and then on both their guns, and 
pointed to one side. It was a plain challenge for a duel. For 
a moment the party forgot their danger, laughed heartily, and 
urged their comrade to “ go in,” saying that he could “ get 
away with him,” hut he could not see the point, and wisely 
declined. 

The party were followed and harassed by the Indians, and 
narrowly escaped being slaughtered. Under cover of the dark¬ 
ness, the savages approached their camp, and from a ravine near 
by poured in a murderous volley upon them, and then resorted 
to their hows and arrows to prevent discovery. Strange to say, 
but two men were mortally wounded. The next day the party 
marched out, and in open field challenged the Indians for a 
fight, which they refused to accept. Seeing that the Crows 
were now openly hostile, and that to return by the same route 
was impossible, they started southward for the overland road, 

which point they reached after a most fatiguing and hazardous 
12 


150 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


journey, with the loss of but three of their number, one of 
whom accidentally destroyed his own life. 1 

I will not attempt a description of my personnel, as, after a 
month’s absence on a rusticating tour, for which I was but 
poorly prepared, on Monday evening, September 15th, at live 
o’clock, after a ride that day of more than forty miles, I rode 
into Bozeman, where I was refreshed by a cordial reunion with 
friends, who had begun to suspect that I was really lost in the 
mountains, or had been scalped by the Indians. But here I am 
at the close of my rambles, and at the end of a journey which, 
though not performed without some difficulties, taken all in all, 
is one of the most pleasant and profitable to mind and body that 
I ever made. It will ever constitute a bright spot in memory 
—an oasis in the journey of life—the remembrance of which 
is refreshing. In future years, when railroads shall checker this 
mountain country, and myriads of excited men and women shall 
come from every clime in splendid palace-cars to behold the 
curiosities of this wonderland of the world, I hope to be able 
to look back with pride to the day when I made the grand 
rounds on a cayuse pony, and recount to attentive listeners the 
wonderful events of one of the most remarkable journeys of a 
lifetime. 

I hope, dear reader, that you have not grown weary in fol¬ 
lowing the narrative of these protracted rambles; and I am sure 
that, if it should be your happy lot to go on such an excursion, 
you will acknowledge that the half has not been told, and will 
return with ample compensation for all the drencliings, tumbles 
in the mud, and other hardships encountered on a horseback- 
tour to the geysers. 

1 “ Journal of Captain James Stuart, with Notes by S. T. Hauser, ” in “ Contri¬ 
butions to the Historical Society,” vol. i. 


CHAPTER XVII. 


Hitherto Obscurity of the Geyser Region.—The Cause—Legends.—Magic Cities.— 
Mysterious Inhabitants.—Jim Bridger.—Other Mountaineers visit this Region. 
—First Expedition.—Second.—Dr. Hayden’s Expedition.—The National Park. 
—Its Variety of Wonders.—The grandest in the World.—Grand Exposition. 


Inclosed by a cordon of nigged, lofty mountain-ranges, 
which have been mentioned, it is not strange that the wonders 
of the Upper Yellowstone and Madison Basins have so long re¬ 
mained in comparative obscurity. All attempts to enter this 
region from the east and southeast were signal failures, the ex¬ 
peditions from the States heading this way being turned from 
their course to the southward by the insurmountable barriers, 
in the shape of the snowy glaciers of the Wind River range, 
throwing them out of reach of the Upper Yellowstone country; 
and the exploring-parties returning eastward from the Pacific 
slope, in their haste, seem to have avoided entering here, for 
fear, I suppose, of becoming “ entangled ” by the mountains on 
their homeward trip. Then, they had no positive information 
at that early day of the wonders that abound there. As it can 
be easily approached from the west, it remained for an expedi¬ 
tion from this direction to explore and bring to light its hidden 
mysteries. This was not likely to take place until the “ regions 
beyond ” should be crowded with inhabitants, and energy and 
enterprise, stimulated by the floating legends, should spur them 
up to enter this dark corner of the earth. 


152 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


Lewis and Clarke seem to have known nothing of this region, 
save of the “ great lake ” which is spread upon their chart, and 
of which they were doubtless informed by the Indians. The 
famous Jim Bridger, of Rocky Mountain notoriety, with one or 
two other white men, claim to have visited this enchanted land 
many years ago, and, from the rude descriptions which the 
former gave of it, it is probable that this is the same place he 
spoke of. 

The legends and hying rumors that doubtless originated 
here, and have been circulated all over the West, colored by 
the superstitious imaginations of excited mountaineers and pros¬ 
pectors, compare favorably with the story of El Dorado, with 
its exhaustless treasures and golden cities, or the legends of the 
“ Arabian Rights,” wdtli their magic cities and pearly palaces, 
that have excited the imaginations of so many youthful readers. 
Tradition told of a region where the trees were solid stone—of 
splendid palaces and gorgeous temples, with pearly gates, mas¬ 
sive walls, gorgeous courts, and glittering, heaven-ascending 
spires. There were said to be mansions and lordly castles; but 
all of the inhabitants had, for some mortal sin, been turned to 
solid stone, and were still standing in their places as the grim, 
silent sentinels to guard the sacredness of the dreary solitude 
around the home of these fabulous beings. Curiously-wrought 
and strangely-colored specimens, brought down from these fairy 
regions by some venturesome explorer, were thought to be part 
of the war accoutrements and implements of a mysterious but 
doomed race of beings. Current stories of glittering diamonds 
and inexhaustible gold-fields tickled sensitive ears; while glow¬ 
ing accounts of burning plains, smoking furnaces, boiling cal¬ 
drons, and noisy, rumbling, spouting springs, aroused the fears 
of many a superstitious red-man (they do not now like to enter 
this region, believing the evil spirit dwells here), and almost 


FIRST EXPEDITION. 


153 


shook the faith of more than one “ strong-minded ” but aston¬ 
ished mountaineer. 

It was thought at last, by all, that somethmg wonderful must 
exist on the Upper Yellowstone, though just what it was no one 
knew ; and, as th6 immense gold-seeking population moved into 
Montana, there came an increased desire to explore this mystic 
region. Bridgets statements could not be considered as myths, 
and the accounts of prospectors and trappers (some of whom I 
have talked with) who had been there, all seeming to harmonize, 
to a certain extent, were deemed worthy of credence. 

But the first regularly-organized expedition that ventured to 
explore this region was fitted out in Montana, and went out in 
1870. The reports of their explorations, by Mr. Langford, 
Lieutenant Doane, and others, through Eastern periodicals, 
were the first to bring the country into general notice. The 
way being fairly opened, Colonel Barlow led a Government 
expedition thither the following summer. Then in 1871 a 
large expedition, under Dr. Hayden, the United States Geolo¬ 
gist, accompanied by a full corps of scientists, made extensive ex¬ 
plorations, which were reported to the public the following year. 

The concurrent testimony of all the explorers establishing 
the fact of the unfitness of this elevated mountain-region for 
agricultural or mining purposes, a bill was presented before, 
and passed by, Congress, setting apart this vast tract, sixty-five 
miles in length (east and west) by fifty-five in width, exempt¬ 
ing it from settlement, and holding it as a reservation and 
u great national pleasure-ground ” for our people. It is in the 
northwestern corner of Wyoming, and extends a few miles 
across the line into Montana. It embraces the sources of the 
great rivers before mentioned, the waters of which go forth 
from these mountain-sides to every point of the compass. It 

embraces, in part, that remarkable cluster of glacier-like peaks 


154 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


of the Wind River range, on the summit of one of which 
Bonneville went into such raptures many years ago; and also 
includes the Yellowstone Lake, Madison Lake, Mammoth 
Springs, the Great Falls and Canon, Upper and Lower Geyser 
basins, together with all other intervening curiosities of this 
vast area. No person is permitted to settle or make improve¬ 
ments of any kind on it without permission from the proper 
authorities. When civilization advances sufficiently in the 
West, and visitors come in numbers to justify the building of 
hotels, and other improvements, such as making parks for the 
game, and preparing otherwise for the pleasure and entertain¬ 
ment of the tourist, this will be a wonderful resort for pleasure- 
seekers in the summer. 

Although now shut out from the world, where it cannot be 
reached without a ride of four hundred miles on a rickety, rat¬ 
tling, jolting stage-coach, which is perfectly preposterous in 
the estimation of those in high life, who are unused to anything 
less than a Pullman palace-car or costly carriage, and a trip of 
a hundred miles or more, besides, over a moderately rough road, 
to be performed in a lumber wagon, with the remainder of the 
journey on the “ liurricane-deck ” of a cayuse (where the seas 
are sometimes rough), the very thought of which would cause 
an attack of spasmodic contraction of the nerves to timid souls, 
yet in no other spot of ground of the same compass is there 
grouped a greater variety of wonderful phenomena; and the 
time is coming when it will be the great central resort for the 
lovers of the grand, the wonderful, the beautiful, and the sub¬ 
lime in Nature, from all parts of the inhabited world. 

Why, just think of it! The Mammoth Springs, with their 
wonderful architectural beauty, and the healing virtue of their 
waters, rival Saratoga and Long Branch—the famous watering- 
places of the Eastern States. The lovely cascade at Tower 


THE NATIONAL PARK. 


155 


Creek is not equaled by Minnehaha; while the Great Falls of 
the Yellowstone, with their symmetrical proportions containing 
“ all the elements of picturesque beauty,” and so intimately 
connected with all the strangely-fascinating enchantments of 
the delicately-carved and gorgeously-crowned Grand Canon, 
excel in sublimity the world-known Niagara, or the soul-inspir¬ 
ing Yosemite. The view from Mount Washburn, or one oi 
the glistening glaciers farther to the south, is equal to any of the 
Alpine views, which have inspired poets and stirred the souls 
of orators and artists in portraying their grandeur and beauty; 
while a visit to the charming solitudes along the pebbly strand 
of the crystal waters of Yellowstone Lake, with its emerald 
isles and w r eird surroundings, will cause every other like scene 
to fade into insignificance. Then comes the Upper Basin, once 
the centre of fiery volcanoes and powerful forces, where yet the 
earth is made to quake and tremble from the internal concus¬ 
sions and rumblings, as the stupendous volumes of steam and 
water are hurled upward from the superheated regions below. 

It is conceded that no such cluster of wonders is exhibited 
elsewhere in the world. Let us imagine ourselves for once 
standing in a central position, where we can see every geyser 
in the basin. It is an extra occasion, and they are all out on 
parade, and all playing at once. There is good Old Faithful, 
always ready for her part, doing her best—the two-bv-five-feet 
column playing to a height of one hundred and fifty feet—per¬ 
fect in all the elements of geyser-action. Yonder the Beehive 
is sending up its graceful column two hundred teet heavenward, 
while the Giantess is just in the humor, and is making a gorge¬ 
ous display of its—say—ten-feet volume to an altitude of two 
hundred and fifty feet. In the mean time the old Castle an¬ 
swers the summons, and, putting on its strength with alarming 
detonations, is belching forth a gigantic volume seventy feet 


156 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


above its crater; while over there, just above the Saw-mill, 
which is rallying all its force to the exhibition, rustling about 
and spurting upward its six-inch jet with as much self-impor¬ 
tance as if it were the only geyser in the basin, we see the 
Grand, by a more than ordinary effort, overtopping all the rest 
with its heaven-ascending, graceful volume, three hundred feet 
in the air. Just below here the Riverside, the Comet, the compli¬ 
cated and fascinating Fantail, and the curiously-wrought Grotto, 
are all chiming in, and the grand old Giant, the chief of the 
basin, not to be left behind, or by any one outdone, is towering 
up with its six-feet fountain, swaying in the bright sunlight at 
an elevation of two hundred and fifty feet. In the mean time a 
hundred others of lesser note, we will say, are answering the 
call at this grand exposition, and coming out in all their native 
glory and surpassing beauty. Just listen to the terrible, awful 
rumblings and deafening thunders, as if the very earth would 
be moved from its foundation—the thousand reports of rush¬ 
ing waters and hissing steam, while Pluto is mustering all his 
forces, and Hades would feign disgorge itself and submerge 
our world. But then look upward at the immense masses of 
rising steam ascending higher and still higher, until lost in the 
heavens above ; while everv column is tinseled over with a 
robe of silver decked with all the prismatic colors, and every 
majestic fountain is encircled with a halo of gorgeous hues. 

AY ho can, with pen or pencil, portray the terrific grandeur, 
and transcendent beauty and magnificence, of such a scene? 
With the fire and molten lava it would surpass Vesuvius or 
Etna; and here is water enough, if in close proximity, to rob 
either of them of half its fury and glory. Tims, almost right at 
home in our “ own native land,” in our own “ Great West,” we 
have attractions and wonders of which other countries might 
well be proud. 


CHAPTER XVIII. 


Thrilling Adventures of Excursionists in the National Park : Nez-Perce 
Indians under Joseph.—Capture of Radersburg Party.—Bloody Work.—Mrs. 
Cowan, her Sister, and Brother, in Captivity.—Release of Captives.—Cowan’s 
Miraculous Escape.—Radersburg Party attacked.—Kenck killed.—Escape of 
the Others.—Hardships endured.—Deitrich’s Death.—Shiveley’s Account of 
his Captivity. 

In time of peace there is no danger whatever of Indians in 
the National Park. They seem to have avoided it as much as 
possible in their travels; much less has it been their haunt or 
lurking-place. Ho place in the Rocky Mountains has been 
considered more secure from the ravages of hostile bands than 
this region of country, and tourists have always felt secure 
amid these solitudes. But during the present year (in August, 
1877) the hostile Hez-Perces, under Joseph, on their march 
from Idaho toward the buffalo-country, while endeavoring to 
avoid the settlements of Montana, and pursued by the United 
States soldiers, were compelled to go through the park, enter¬ 
ing at Henry’s Lake, passing through Lower Geyser Basin, 
crossing the Yellowstone River, near Muddy Geyser, and 
going out through a pass at the head of Clark’s Fork. 

The adventures of the parties of tourists who were inter¬ 
cepted by the Yez-Perces while making the grand rounds, the 
killing of several of them, the wounding of others, and the 
trials and hardships encountered by those who made good their 


158 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


escape, are matters of such thrilling interest to the public 
throughout the entire country, that I have thought it proper to 
give an account of them in these pages. I have talked with 
many of the participants in the tragic scenes here described, 
and the following is substantially correct: 

The Radersburg party, consisting of George F. Cowan and 
wife, and Charles Mann, of Radersburg; Miss Ida Carpenter 
and Mr. Meyers, of Missouri Valley ; William Dingee, Albert 
Oldham, and Frank Carpenter, of Helena, left Radersburg on 
Monday, the 6th of August, for the Rational Park. They 
went by way of Sterling and up the Madison River to the 
Lower Geyser Basin, traveling by wagon and carriage. Here 
they made their permanent camp, and left their vehicles, mak¬ 
ing the rest of the tour through Wonderland on horseback. 
They visited the Upper Geyser Basin, and three members of 
the party visited also the Yellowstone Falls and the lake. It 
was as cheerful a party as ever went through the park. They 
lived well, passed the evenings around the camp-tire listening 
to music from guitar and violin, little dreaming that a savage 
foe was approaching so near them. On the night of the 23d,. 
having returned to their camp, they prepared to start homeward 
the following dav. About five o’clock next morning, while 
Arnold and Dingee (the only persons up in camp) were making 
the camp-fire, three Indians were discovered approaching. They 
came up and alighted from their horses. The party were all 
up in short order and questioned the Indians, who, after some 
prevarications, stated that they were Nez-Perces under Look¬ 
ing-Glass, that Looking-Glass was the friend of the white man, 
“ would not hurt white man, but would fight soldiers,” and that 
his band of two hundred warriors were in camp a short dis¬ 
tance below, in the timber. Many Indians could now be seen, 
and the party, after consulting with each other, as they had no 


CAPTURE OF THE RADERSBURG PARTY. 


159 


adequate means of defense, concluded to move out of camp 
down the Fireliole River toward home. They were encour¬ 
aged to take this course from the fact that one of the Indians 
assured them that they need apprehend no danger, as they 
were friends to the white man, and he would himself escort the 
party safely through the entire Indian camp, when they could 
go on their journey homeward. This also confirmed what the 
party had heard before coming to the park, namely, that the 
Rez-Perces were permitted by the authorities to pass through 
the Territory to the Yellowstone without molestation. The par¬ 
ty then harnessed and saddled their horses, and proceeded home¬ 
ward, without waiting to prepare breakfast. They were, how¬ 
ever, soon surrounded by a large party of warriors, who told 
them that it would not be safe for them to travel on that road, 
as there w r ere bad Indians behind who would kill all of the 
party if they met them. They then told the tourists that their 
only safe plan would be to turn back and go with them ; that 
they would protect them, and the bad Indians should not hurt 
them; and that they would conduct the party to a place from 
which they could soon reach the white settlements. 

While they were consulting what course to pursue, the In¬ 
dians, who were all well armed, and some with their guns un¬ 
slung and ready for instant use, compelled the party to turn 
round and fall into their line of march. 

After traveling for about two miles up the east fork of 
Fireliole River, the wagon and carriage had to be abandoned on 
account of the fallen timber, over which they could not pass. 
The horses were unhitched and saddled for Mrs. Cowan and 
her sister Ida to ride upon. While the boys were saddling up, 
Mr. Frank Carpenter said he would go to the front, find Look¬ 
ing-Glass, and see if he would not let them go on home, and 
for six needle-gun cartridges hired an Indian to conduct him 


160 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


tliitlier. lie found the chief eight miles farther on, at the foot 
of a steep mountain, just west of Mary’s Lake, where the In¬ 
dians had camped for noon. lie shook hands with Looking- 
Glass, and asked him if he was a friend, to which he responded: 

“ Yes—no kill citizens.” 

While Mr. Cowan was telling him of the party, up came 
White Bird (who is also a chief of some note among the Yez- 
Perces), accompanied by Shively, who had been captured the 
evening before, and was forced to act as guide for the Indians. 
White Bird invited him to his lodge, where Frank was plied 
with cpiestions as to who they were, where they were from, 
where they were going, etc. He gave the chief full particulars, 
and asked him if they could not go home. He said: 

“ Yes ; no kill citizens, but kill Lewiston soldiers all time— 
heap kill.” 

In the mean time the Indians had hurried their captives 
forward till they came to White Bird’s camp. This dignitary 
informed them that they could return home, but that he would 
be under the necessity of taking their horses, arms, and ainmu- 
nition. He told them that he would give them other horses 
to ride upon, and other guns with three cartridges each in 
place of those taken from them. This he did, according to 
his word. At this juncture the chiefs ordered camp to be 
broken, and the march resumed. The captives were com¬ 
manded to depart on the back trail, which order was obeyed 
without hesitation by the little party, who were, however, filled 
with dread, as they saw that they were followed by forty or 
fifty savages, the most ferocious-looking in the camp, whose 
dark, snake-like eyes were fixed upon them with murderous 
intent, and who, after White Bird confessing that he could not 
longer control them, had gone forward, and now became inso¬ 
lent, taking their guns, blankets, and other property, and making 


BLOODY WORK. 


161 


the woods resound with their hideous yells. About this time 
Dingee and Arnold dodged into the brush and made their 
escape. The party were dogged by the bloodthirsty bends for 
a short distance farther, when they were again ordered to halt, 
and then to turn round and go back the other way. It was 
now evident that the savages meant mischief, the object of this 
marching and counter-marching being only to let the other 
chiefs get out of the way. The warriors then took the cap¬ 
tives back to a place not far from where White Bird had left 
them, where the trail ascends a little knoll, near the thick tim¬ 
ber at the foot of the mountain, where they began their bloody 
work. 

Cowan and his wife were riding in advance, when two In¬ 
dians came dashing down the hill in front of them. The savages 
halted, and one of them raised his rifle and fired, the ball pass¬ 
ing through Cowan’s right thigh. lie slipped from his horse, 
and being unable to use his wounded leg, fell to the ground. 
Instantly his wife was at his side bending over him, when pres¬ 
ently two Indians came up, one of whom raised his revolver and 
pointed it at Cowan’s head, intending to finish the bloody deed. 
Mrs. Cowan, seeing this, threw her arms around her husband’s 
neck and her body in front of his face to shield him from the 
deadly missile, and implored the Indian to take her life first, 
lie replied, “No, me kill old ones first,” and seized her right 
hand to drag her from her husband; but she still clung with 
heroic strength to his neck with the other hand. This gave the 
other Indian a fair view of Cowan’s head, and he instantly drew 
his revolver and fired, the ball taking effect just above the left 
temple, when the unfortunate man was left for dead. When 
the firing commenced the party scattered, and several of them 
succeeded in escaping to the brush. Albert Oldham was shot 
through the face, the ball passing through his tongue, but inflict- 


162 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


ing no serious injury. He fell near the timber, and was left for 
dead, though he succeeded in making his escape, and after four 
days and live nights, in the wilderness without food or shelter, 
suffering intensely from cold, hunger, and loss of blood, was 
picked up by Howard’s command. Charles Mann reached the 
timber with a bullet-hole through his hat, the ball just grazing 
the scalp, and was taken in by some Bannack scouts, and re¬ 
turned with Howard to look after the rest of the party, who 
were supposed to be dead. Meyers, though suffering severely 
with a scalded foot, outran the Indians a fair race for several 
miles and joined the soldiers. Dingee and Arnold, who got 
away from the party before the firing commenced, after spend¬ 
ing five days and nights in the mountains without food, fire, or 
coats upon their backs, when almost despairing, joined the com¬ 
mand near Henry’s Lake. 

While the firing was going on, Frank Carpenter saw a young 
chief who had him in charge, with his gun cocked and aimed 
directly at his breast. He thought his time had come, and, re¬ 
membering that these Indians are Catholics, he made the sign 
of the cross, when the Indian threw up his gun and said, “ Come 
quick, me no kill—me save you!” Carpenter then ran to 
where his sister was bending over her husband (this was before 
Cowan was shot in the head) to try to assist them, when the 
chief ordered him away, and placed him behind some brush, 
telling him to keep still. He asked the Indian to spare the 
white girls, and he said he would. 

After the firing was over, Mrs. Cowan was torn away from 
her husband, who was thought to be lifeless, as his head had 
been pounded with stones by these fiends in human form, and 
whose life she had labored so hard to save, really endangering her 
own in the heroic effort. She and her sister were each lashed 
on a horse behind a savage, and with their'brother, who had 


IX CAPTIVITY. 


163 


been spared, were led into captivity, and started eastward on 
the trail. But I will permit Mr. Carpenter to relate the story 
of the captivity and release of himself and sister, as told by 
him to the author, and also published in the Helena papers. 
He savs: 

u finally, after what seemed an age to me, we moved out 
of the brush and commenced driving horses up the hill. Going 
along the trail about two miles, I first saw my sister, Mrs. 
Cowan. In reply to my inquiries she said that Ida, the last 
she saw of her, was on a horse behind an Indian, and that she 
thought the rest of the party were all killed. We then got 
separated on different trails, and did not see each other until 
we met in camp, about ten o’clock at night. 

u We slept none that night. Emma said she saw Albert Old¬ 
ham shot and fall from his horse. Cowan was first shot throuMi 

• © 

the leg. She ran to him. An Indian came up, placed a pistol 
near their heads, fired, and George fell, with her arms around 
his neck. The Indian dragged her away, and as she was being 
put on a horse she looked back and saw Cowan place his hand 
to his head. She saw an Indian throw a big rock on Cowan's 
head, crushing it as she thinks. She recollects no more 
until seeing me, and finding herself on a horse behind an 
Indian. 

“ The next morning I was told that I was to be killed, and 
that my sisters were to be put on pack-animals and turned 
loose. I asked White Bird to keep the girls until they came 
to some settlement or road, for they r would get lost in the park 
and perish if alone. The camp began to move, and my chief 
told me to travel with his squaw, as he was going to hunt elk. 
About noon we crossed the Yellowstone, nearly opposite the 
Muddy Geyser. I there saw my sister Ida for the first time. 
She ran toward me, but I told her to go back, that I would 


1 64 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


come to her as soon as I could. A cry of ‘ Soldiers ! ’ was raised, 
and the warriors recrossed the river on a run, and we saw no 
more of them. About a dozen remained with the camp. After 
dinner Emma, Ida, and Shively, came over where I was, to have 
a talk. 

“ Later in the afternoon White Bird called a council of the 
chiefs present, to decide what should be done with us. In the 
council were White Bird, a Snake chief named Little Bear, a 
Crow chief, the chief who claimed me, and two young chiefs. 
White Bird spoke in our behalf for about thirty minutes, his 
main argument being that if they killed us the citizens of Mon¬ 
tana would retaliate by killing the Nez-Perces. Little Bear 
got up and talked a long time. lie pawed the ground and 
gesticulated fiercely. He wanted to kill me and keep my sister 
for his squaw—as an Indian afterward told me. 

“ White Bird lit a pipe, took a few puffs, and passed it round 
the circle. Those who smoked were in favor of letting us go. 
I watched them—oh, how eagerly! Never in my life did I 
experience such delight in seeing a person smoke! Twice the 
pipe passed around the circle. Four of the chiefs smoked the 
pipe, and three ref used. 

“ The council dispersed. White Bird informed me that 
myself and sisters should go home. He brought two horses for 
my sisters to ride, intimating that I could walk, and I replied 
that all I wanted was a chance. Mrs. Cowan's riding-habit was 
brought to her; she and Ida were mounted. White Bird es¬ 
corted us about a mile. He then said : c Go home—go quick ! 
You no meet Indians on trail—they gone back to Henry’s Lake 
to fight Lewiston soldiers. I no want to fight Montana citizens 
or soldiers. You tell Bozeman people, Montana people, if 
Montana soldiers fight us any more, we kill all white women, 
papooses, citizens—everybody. We kill ail—no let them go ! 


THE ESCAPE. 


165 


We go to Shoslione country. You get to Bozeman in three 
days. Good-by.’ 

“ If White Bird had seen us make time for the next three 
miles he would have had sufficient evidence that we were obey- 

v 

ing his advice to ‘go quick.’ But darkness overtook us when 
we had gone some four or five miles. We went up the timber, 
about two miles southwest of Sulphur Mountain, crept into 
some underbrush, and passed the night the best we could. 
My sisters suffered from cold, they having got their dresses 
pretty wet in swimming the Yellowstone. Sunday morning 
we struck across the country, toward Bozeman, keeping in the 
timber until we struck the trail going down to the falls, and 
we came out within half a mile of where we afterward learned 
the Helena party were camped. If I had known it, I could 
have warned them, and the lives of Kenck and Deitrich would 
have been saved. Twelve miles from the springs we met Lieu¬ 
tenant Schofield and party. They showed us every possible 
attention. 

“ Twenty minutes later we saw Blister coming down the 
trail, who informed us of the attack on the Helena party that 
day noon. Lieutenant Schofield escorted us to the springs, 
where we arrived at 10 p. m. Monday we continued on to 
Bottler’s ranch, where we met many kind friends. On Tuesday 
we arrived at Bozeman, having been met on the road by Mr. 
David Boreum with carriages.” 

But, to return to Mr. Cowan. It was reported that he was 
shot through the head, and no one entertained the hope that lie 
was alive. But it seems that he was not born to be killed by 
an Indian bullet. The ball flattened , and did not enter the 
skull. Mr. Cowan thinks he remained insensible about two 
hours—from three o’clock (at which time the shooting took 
place) till five, when he regained his consciousness. At first, he 

13 


166 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


hardly knew whether he was in this world or some other, as he 
remembered seeing the Indian aim directly at his head, and ex¬ 
perienced a sensation as if the ball had gone crashing through 
his brain. I suppose he thought he was surely killed. But, on 
opening his eyes, he recognized the place, and was sure that lie 
was still on Mother Earth, though he had been dragged (as he 
supposed) some distance from the place where he fell. His first 
impulse was to feel for his hair, which he found all right, except 
that it was clotted with blood from the bullet-wound and the 
gashes made by the stones with which he was pounded. Find¬ 
ing that his wounds were not necessarily fatal, and thinking 
himself entirely alone, he drew himself up by the boughs of a 
tree, and was standing on his feet, when he discovered an Indian 
approaching him with rifle in hand ready for use, twenty yards 
away. Thinking to escape from the Indian, Mr. Cowan started 
toward a clump of bushes not far away, and, while looking back 
over his shoulder to see how close the savage was upon him, 
the Indian fired, the ball striking Cowan on the point of the 
left hip and coming out in front of the abdomen. He fell on 
his face in some high grass, about' twenty yards from the trail, 
where he remained perfectly still, thinking his case hopeless 
now, and every moment expecting the Indian to come up and 
complete his work. But he never came. About twenty min¬ 
utes elapsed, when a party of liostiles passed along the trail, but 
did not discover the wounded man. Mr. Cowan kept his place 
for half an hour after these Indians passed, and, everything be¬ 
ing silent as death (it was now dark), he cautiously surveyed 
the position, and, finding himself alone, he took another inven¬ 
tory of his injuries, the result of which gave him some hope. 
Finding himself unable to stand upon his feet, he commenced 
to crawl, desiring to get to a place of greater safety, which he 
kept up till midnight, when he lay down and wished for day. 


MR. COWAN’S MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. 


167 


Mr. Cowan’s condition at this time would appear anything hut 
hopeful. With three severe wounds on his person, suffering 
from intense cold, hunger, and loss of blood, in a vast wilder¬ 
ness inhabited by wild beasts and (at this time) savage men, un¬ 
able to stand upon his feet, and almost distracted at the thought 
that his wife was murdered or led away into a cruel bondage, 
his condition excites the liveliest sympathy. But he was not 
the man to give up. lie remembered that some of the party 
had carelessly dropped a few matches and spilt a small quantity 
of parched coffee at the camp in Firehole Basin ; also, that an 
empty can had been left there. If the matches could be secured 
and the coffee and can could be found, he would have fire and 
get some nourishment which would sustain life, possibly, till he 
could be rescued. The old camp was twelve miles away ; but, 
nothing daunted, Mr. Cowan started on the perilous journey. 
On his way, passing near the abandoned wagons, he crawled to 
them in the vain hope of getting something in the shape of 
clothing to keep him warm. Here he found his bird-dog keep¬ 
ing faithful watch and patiently waiting for its master's return. 
The dog was delighted to see him, seemed to show great sym¬ 
pathy for him in his afflictions, and attended him in all of his 
after-travels. Finally, after crawling on his hands and knees 
for four days and nights, through dense timber and brush, rest¬ 
ing at intervals, on Tuesday evening Mr. Cowan reached the 
camp where they were captured, where he found the matches 
and coffee-grains scattered in the dirt. lie now felt sate, as he 
had fire to warm him, coffee to drink, and a dog that he could 
kill and eat, if necessity required. 

The next day (Wednesday), just before noon, he was found 
by two of General Howard’s scouts, and the following day the 
advance-guard came up, with whom was Mr. Arnold, who 
brought Cowan the first intelligence of the safety of his wife. 


168 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


Mr. Cowan was placed in a wagon, and taken with the command 
to the Yellowstone, from which place, accompanied by Arnold, 
who was untiring in his efforts to minister to the wants of his 
friend, he was sent to Bozeman, where, meeting his wife on the 
way, and, after several other liair-breadth escapes, he arrived in 
safety, and received the congratulations of a host of friends who 
had given him up for dead. What a joyful occasion, as hus¬ 
band and wife met again, after such a long and painful sepa¬ 
ration ! 

The Helena party was composed of the following persons: 
A. J. Weikert, Frederick Pfister, Bichard Deitrich, Joseph 
Boberts, Charles Kenck, Jack Stewart, August Foller, Leslie 
Wilkie, L. Duncan, and Benjamin Stone (colored cook). 

On the morning of the 25th of August the tourists started 
from the Yellowstone Falls, expecting to encamp that night at 
the Mud Geysers, about nine or ten miles distant, but, on reach¬ 
ing Sulphur Mountain, and riding to the summit, they discov¬ 
ered a moving body several miles ahead, which was first pro¬ 
nounced a band of elk, then a large party of tourists, but which 
it was soon ascertained was a troop of Indians. The tourists 
soon discovered the main Indian camp on the east bank of 
the Yellowstone. The entire party at once returned to within 
three miles of the falls, rode one mile from the trail west, 
through the timber, and went into camp in a little opening near 
a stream that puts into the Yellowstone. They were not dis¬ 
turbed during the night. Ho one knew what tribe the Indians 
which they had met belonged to. Hext morning, Weikert and 

Wilkie volunteered to act as scouts, with the understanding 

• » 

that if danger threatened they were to fire their guns, which 
should he the signal for the party to escape for their lives. 

About eleven o’clock the cook was preparing dinner, and 
most of the boys were lying asleep or lounging about camp, 


ATTACK BY INDIANS. 


169 


when the party were startled by the crack of a gun, and imme¬ 
diately a full volley was tired into the camp by a band of sav¬ 
ages not thirty yards away, who rushed forward, tiring as they 
came, and making the woods ring with their savage war-whoop. 
Kenck was killed instantly, and Stewart received a severe 
wound in the hip, but succeeded in getting away. The rest of 
the party scattered and ran for the woods, followed by showers 
of bullets, and succeeded in making their escape. 

The scouts had failed to discover Indians on account of 
the haze, and were returning. When about two miles from 
camp they discovered the savages in ambush for them, and 
wheeled their horses to retreat. The Indians fired, hitting 
W eikert in the shoulder, while another bullet carried away 
the stock of his ride, and bullets were whizzing thickly around 
their heads like hailstones. The boys escaped from the In¬ 
dians and galloped to a place near the camp and fired two shots 
—the signal agreed upon. No response came. With throb¬ 
bing hearts they shouted the names of their party, but could 
only hear the echo of their own voices in return. Determined 
to know the worst, the brave boys went into camp, where the 
broken shot-guns, provisions, and camp-equipage piled on the 
smouldering camp-fire, told the fearful tale. With sad hearts 
they started homeward. They soon came up with Stewart and 
Stone. Stewart was badly wounded, and Stone was helping 
him along. Both were exhausted. The noble-hearted scouts 
gave up their horses to their helpless comrades and trudged 
onward the long, weary night without complaint, reaching the 
Mammoth Springs next morning, having traveled forty-five 
miles since the attack. Here they met Carpenter and his sis¬ 
ters, who had just arrived, and during the day all the surviv¬ 
ors of the Helena party arrived except Heberts and Foller. 
These boys—one scarcely twenty and the. other seventeen 



170 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


years of age—succeeded in reaching the timber amid a shower 
of deadly missiles, and started in a northwesterly direction 
across the mountains through the forest, hoping thus to avoid 
the Indians, who they supposed would follow them. 

Lost amid the dreary solitudes of these mountains without 
compass or guide, destitute of food or sufficient raiment to keep 
them w^arm, their feet sore and bleeding, it is a w r onder that 
they should escape so well. Of their experience Roberts 
says: 

“ Foller and I traveled from about noon until dark—direc¬ 
tion w T est, hugging the timbered mountain-side. We lay dow T n 
supperless to sleep. Foller, better off than I, had a coat, so 1 
took the inside next a big log, with Foller as outside layer. 
We w T ere up at daybreak next morning, and continued our 
tramp. We turned a little north of w T est, aiming to strike the 
Madison River. Had nothing to eat during the day except 
some berries plucked from buslies along the way. Water w T e 
found in sloughs and springs. Still following the side and 
ridcre of mountains w r e bivouacked at dark in the manner of 
the night before. 

“ On the morning of the 28th, about nine o’clock, we struck 
the summit of the divide separating the waters of the Madison 
and Yellowstone. Starting down a dry gulch, Ave followed it 
until we struck a small stream, which led us to the river. 
Traveling down the Madison some miles Ave found a vacant 
cabin. We felt encouraged to rest here a bit, and ease our 
blistered feet. Foller, having a tackle, tried his luck at an¬ 
gling, and caught three fish. These we roasted, haA-ing made a 
fire; ate tAvo of the fish, and saved the third for emergencies. 
Resumed our march down-stream, making our bed that night 
in tall grass near the river. 

“ Rose early on the morning of the 29tli and resumed our 


DEITRICH’S DEATH. 


171 


march. Traveled some miles, and then sat down and breakfasted 
on part of the remaining fish. About noon, on turning a bend, 
we saw several men on the opposite side of the river, and hailed 
them. They proved to be a party with wagons transporting 
supplies to General Howard’s command, then at Henry’s Lake. 
One of them mounted and forded the river, leading two ani¬ 
mals to convey us over. The party took good care of us— 
gave us first a small dram of whiskey and then carefully ra¬ 
tioned us. Afterward, providing us with canned salmon, toma¬ 
toes, hard-tack, a loaf of bread, etc., they gave us the direction 
to Virginia City, and we proceeded on, still afoot, until niglit, 
when we camped in a deserted house. 

“ Traveling until noon of the 30th, we fell in with a man 
looking for stock. He sent us to his wagon, while he went 
off after stray horses. When he returned we bargained with 
him to take us to Virginia, where we arrived safely the same 
evening.” 

On Saturday, September 1st, Weikert and McCartney had 
returned to the place of attack in search of the missing, to 
bury them if dead, and bring them in if wounded; while Dei- 
trich, a man by the name of Stoner, and Stone (colored), re¬ 
mained at the springs to assist in caring for the wounded when 
they should arrive. All the rest had left and gone toward 
Bozeman. A party of Indians made their appearance and 
commenced firing. Stoner and Stone succeeded in getting 
safely to Doane’s camp just below, but Deitricli was killed. 
Weikert and McCartney, after burying Ivenck’s body, were re¬ 
turning to the springs, when they were attacked by the same 
party of Indians, and had a narrow escape, one of the scouts 
having his horse shot under him. 

It is quite amusing to hear Ben Stone (the colored cook) re¬ 
late the story of his adventures. The reporter asked : “ What 


172 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


did you do, Ben, when tlie Indians commenced firing into the 
camp on the Yellowstone ? ” 

“ Why, sail, I jes run as fast as my legs could carry me; and 
dat was mighty fast, I tell you, when de bullets war a-whizzin’ 
’round me like bees in June. I struck for de timber where dar 
was no Injuns, if dat place war to be found. But de whole 
woods ’peared to be full ob ’em from de way de bullets flew. 
Soon as I got out o’ sight—and it wasn’t long, I tell you—de all- 
important question was to find a place to hide, so dey wouldn’t 
find me if dey follered us. Dis now become de all-absorbin’ 
topic, and dar was no time to lose. Whar could I go? I 
wanted to git in a place dat was de same color ob myself, you 
see. I come to a big mud-hole and I saw it was black, and I 
knowed I was black—jes de same color, you see. Says I to my¬ 
self, 4 Dey won’t see me in heah.’ So I jumped right into de 
middle ob it, and jes stuck my nose out to get bref—a very im¬ 
portant item, you know—and dar I laid in dat mud-hole till de 
last red rascal was gone.” 

In speaking of the attack at Mammoth Springs, Ben said he 
was preparing some refreshments for the wounded who should 
come with Weikert and McCartney, when, on looking out, he 
saw an Indian peeping from behind the rocks, and then he re¬ 
marked to himself, “ Mr. Stone, it is about time you war get- 
tin’ out o’ heah.” 

He continued: “I den struck for tall timber wid all my 
might, air what do you think, sah ? Why, I looked ahead, and 
dar I saw a red-skin a-comin’ right toward me as fast as he 
could ride. We war a-comin’ right meetin’ each oder, but I 
didn’t want to cultivate no sicli ’quaintances den. So I said to 
myself: ‘ Dis won’t neber do, Ben ; you must take anudder 
trail;’ an’ I wasn’t long a-decidin’ de p’int, neider. I lit out; 
de Injun saw me, and heah he come right after me. I thought 
I was a gone darkey den, an’ no mistake about it.” 



BEN STONE’S ADVENTURES. 


173 


“ How in the world did you get away from him, Ben ? ” 

“ Why, sail, jes' by clean runnin’. You see, I run ober a 
little ridge, an’ war out o’ sight ob de Injun fob jus’ half a 
minit. Dar war a little pine-tree a-standin’ right in de trail. 
Somethin’ ’peared to say to me, ‘ Ben, you better clime de tree.’ 
I jes’ put my hands on a limb dat stuck out, an’ was up in de 
branches in no time. I hadn’t mor’n got in de tree till dat 
sneakin’ rascal came along my trail an’ stopped right under me. 
He put his hand up to his ear, leant forred, as if he was 
a-lis’nin’ for somethin’—an 1 he was. It was me he was a-huntin’, 
an’ I thought my time had come. Why, sah, if you b’leeve rne, 
I could jis a-put my foot right on top o’ his head, he war so 
close. But 1 didn't do it. No, sah, not me! It warn’t no time 
foil playin’ jokes.” 

“ What did you do, Ben ? ” 

“ Why, bless your soul, what could I do but stan’ dar an’ 
hug dat tree and liol’ my bref, so as he wouldn’t lieali me, 
till he went on to look foil me behind some rocks at anudder 
place?” 

The Indian never dreamed of looking up in the tree for his 
prey, and it was luck tor Ben that he did not. Stone camped 
among the branches of the friendly pine till near evening. He 
then came down and started up the mountain-side toward 
the thick timber, crawling on his hands and knees for fear of 
being discovered. 

“ What did you think, about this time, Mr. Stone? ” 

“I thought, sah, if I had been on my knees mo’ fob de las’ 
twenty yealis, it would hav’ bin better foil dis chile. 

“ Did you pray any, Ben ? ” 

“Pray ? Well, I jes’ guess I did. If I eber prayed in my 
life, it was den aid dar. I thought of all de meanness I had 
eber done in all my life—an it was a heap, too. I said to m\ self, 


174 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


‘ Dis is five times since I been in dese mountains dat de ole fellow 
called foil me, an’ five times lie let me go agin ; and now, if 
he’ll only let me go dis one time mo’, I won’t swear no mo’, I 
won’t drink no mo’ whiskey, nor I won’t play no mo’ cards long 
as I lib—so I won’t. De Lor’ bress your soul, sab, it war enutf 
to make de biggest sinner in de work pray, to hab dern cussed 
Injuns a-huntin’ him down to take his scalp! ” 

But I fear that our hero forgot his prayer and the vows he 
made, from the language lie used and the smell of his breath 
when he related this story. 

But Ben’s troubles were not yet at an end. He says: 44 I 
kep’ a crawlin’ an’ a crawlin’, neber feelin’ safe, till I got away 
up in de woods, when what should I meet but a great rousin’ 
big grizzly bar! It was a-comin’ right down de trail toward 
me. What was I to do now? Dar de Injuns war on one side 
an’ de bar on de oder, an’ I was between ’em.’ Peared like dey 
war in cahort, and war a-goin’ to hab me anyhow. Said I to 
myself: 4 Mr. Stone, you is in a tight place agin. Which’ll 
you take, de Injuns or de bar?’ an’ says I, 4 I’ve tried de In¬ 
juns, an’ don’t want no mo’ to do wid em— TU take de bar .’ ” 

Ben thought that time brings strange bedfellows. Bruin sat 
up on his haunches and grinned awhile at his newly-found com¬ 
panion, then turned away in disgust, and left him alone in his 
glory. 

While on the hill, Stone heard several shots fired, and re¬ 
marked : 44 Dat was for Weikart an’ dat for McCartney. Ah, 
boys, you is in bad hands now, but I can’t help you none! I’se 
got no gun, and you’ll jes’ have to fight it out or save yo’selves 
like I did—by clean runnin’—which, after all, in my ’pinyun, 
am de best an’ safest way to fight Injuns.” 

Ben secreted himself in the thick timber, where he remained 
until the next day. 


SHIVELY’S CAPTIVITY. 


175 


In the afternoon he sallied out, and soon after heard the 
tinkling of bells. “ Joseph’s camp,” muttered he; “detarnal 
camp, it ’pears to be eb’rywhar! I mus’ steer ’round it.” He 
crawled a few steps farther, when he was accosted in stentorian 
tones by— 

“ Who goes there ? ” 

“ Ben Stone, sail! ” answered our hero. 

“ Come forward, Ben Stone,” responded the voice. 

“ Pse a cornin’,” answered Ben, as he promptly obeyed the 
summons. 

When Ben came into camp, a man of swarthy complexion, 
and dressed in buckskin, came up, shook hands with him, and 
said, “We have had scouts out searching for you all day.” 

An Indian also came up, reached out his hand, and said, 
“ How! ” 

“You is a goner, shuah, dis time,” remarked the colored 
man to himself once more. “ Dat was Joseph hisself dat shook 
hands wid me, an’ I hab walked right into de lion’s mouf.” 

And they could not persuade him that it was not the Nez- 
Perce camp until Weikert returned and told him that it was 
Lieutenant Doane with his Crow scouts. 

Reference has been made to Shively. He was on his way 
from the Black Hills, had stopped to see the geysers, and was 
just waiting for the Radersburg party to complete their tour 
of observation, expecting to travel in company with them to 
the settlements, when he was captured by the Yez-Perces on 
the evening of the 23d of August, and compelled to act as 
guide for them. His story is thrilling, and I will permit him 
to relate it himself, as gathered from the Territorial papers. He 
says, in substance: 

“ On the evening of the second day, after leaving the Ra¬ 
dersburg party, I was camped in the Lower Geyser Basin. I 


176 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


was eating my supper, and, on hearing a slight noise, looked up, 
and, to my astonishment, four Indians, in war-paint, were stand¬ 
ing within ten feet of me, and twenty or thirty more had sur¬ 
rounded me not more than forty feet off. I sprang for my gun, 
but was rudely pushed back. I then asked them what Indians 
they were, and they answered ‘Sioux.* I said, ‘No.’ Then 
one of them said, 4 Hez-Perces.’ They then commenced to 
gesticulate wildly, and a loud conversation was kept up between 
them. I thought the exhibition of a little bravery might help 
me, so I folded my arms and. told them to shoot, that I was not 
afraid to die. A brother of Looking-Glass then came up, 
placed his hand on my heart, and held it there a minute or two, 
and exclaimed, 6 Ilyas, skookum-tum-tum ! ’ meaning 4 strong 
heart 5 in Chinook. He then said in English, 4 Come with me,’ 
walked a few steps, told me to get on a pony that he pointed 
out, jumped up behind me, and all started for the main camp, 
a short distance below. While this was taking place, the other 
Indians had taken my gun, blankets, horses—in fact, everything 
I had. Arriving at the main camp, a council of the chiefs was 
formed, and I was told to take a seat inside the circle. They 
asked me who I was, and what I was doing there. I told them. 
They asked me if I would show them the best trail leading out 
of the park to Wind River, where they were going. I told 
them I would, as I knew all about the country. This seemed 
to be satisfactory, and the council broke up, and the camp 
moved up a mile or two, where an encampment for the night 
was formed. A robe was given me, and an Indian named Joe 
was detailed to sleep with me. lie spoke very good English; 
said that I must not attempt to escape; that he would be my 
friend ; that they had come that wav to get away from How- 
ard; that the trail by that route to Wind River was not known 
to them, but other Indians had told them about it, and that if I 


SHIVELY’S NARRATIVE. 


m 


told them the truth they would not harm me. As I could not 
help myself, I promised all they asked, and kept my promise. 
All the time I was with them, I always showed a willingness to 
get on or off a horse when they told me; and, if an Indian rode 
behind me on the horse, I offered no objections, and to this fact 
I am probably indebted for kind treatment. After breaking 
camp the next morning, I was ordered to mount. An Indian 
mounted behind, and I was started ahead with mounted and 
armed Indians on each side and behind me. While camped the 
next day, about noon, the Radersburg party were brought into 
camp. Shortly afterward, a march was made toward Yellow¬ 
stone Lake, I still being kept some distance in the advance. 
After traveling about a mile, I heard seven distinct shots fired, 
and supposed all the persons had been killed, but that evening 
Joe told me that only two men had been shot, and the next 
morning I saw Mrs. Cowan and Miss Carpenter, and was al¬ 
lowed to speak to them, and we traveled near together all that 
day. Through this terrible ordeal, the sisters behaved nobly 
and with the utmost fortitude, although Mrs. Cowan’s mental 
agony at thought of her husband wounded, and perhaps dead, 
and they three in the hands of savages, was enough to have 
driven her distracted. With all their savagery and ferocity, let 
it be said and remembered to the credit of the Yez-Perces, that 
these ladies were treated with all respect, and protected from 
all harm, while their prisoners. 

“ The next day, Frank Carpenter and his sisters were per¬ 
mitted to go, and the Indians moved to the Yellowstone, and 
from there moved over to the head-waters, or rather a tributary, 
of Clark’s fork. The first night of our arrival being quite 
dark, I slipped out of camp and started for the Mammoth Hot 
Springs, which I reached after traveling two whole nights and 
one day. Here I found no one, but did find some pota- 


178 


RAMBLES IN WONDERLAND. 


toes already cooked, which greatly revived me after my long 
fast—having had nothing to eat from the time of leaving the 
Indian camp. I then started for Henderson’s ranch, which I 
found destroyed, but plenty of provisions lying around. I got 
some eggs, and, while cooking them, Mr. J. W. Schuler, of 
Butte City, who was returning from the Clark’s Fork mines, 
rode up. He kindly gave me his horse to ride, he going on 
foot. That night, early, we reached Dailey’s ranch, where we 
received the kindest treatment, and Mr. Dailey loaned me a 
horse on which to ride to Bozeman. 

“ I was with the Indians thirteen days, and was treated very 
well all the time. They traveled very leisurely, not averaging, 
for the whole time, more than five miles a day. Joe said they 
were not afraid of Howard. He also said that they did not in¬ 
tend to return to Idaho, as the agent there, John Hall, was a 
bad man, and would not give them what was due them ; that 
they would remain somewhere in the Big Horn country, and, if 
the soldiers came, they would join in with the Sioux and Crows 
and whip them.” 

Thus ends the brief recital of some of the most startling in¬ 
cidents of Western adventure that it has ever been the lot of 
the historian to chronicle. Imagine the gloom that was cast 
over the entire Territory of Montana when the report of these 
tragic events was first flashed over the wires, and whispered by 
quivering lips and with throbbing hearts from one to another 
throughout the gorges and glens of the Bocky Mountains! 
Among the victims was some of the best blood of our Terri¬ 
tory. It was thought that all had fallen under the bloody 
scalping-knife, or were led away into captivity. Many homes 
and hearts were made desolate. It turned out that but two of 
the party were killed. They were worthy citizens of Helena, 
and their loss is deeply deplored by all. But many hearts were 


CONCLUSION. 


179 


raised in grateful remembrance to the Father of Mercies that 
so many were spared. Their deliverance was almost miraculous. 

Many incidents are related which, for want of space, cannot 
be recorded here, but enough has been recited to show that the 
heroic age has not yet passed. The undaunted courage and de¬ 
votion of Mrs. Cowan in saving her husband’s life (for she did 
save it), the fortitude of herself and younger sister, as shown 
when in the hands of their captors, the endurance of Cowan 
and his fellow-sufferers, the bravery of Shively, and the courage 
and friendship of Arnold, Weikert, and others, in caring for 
their unfortunate companions, will be remembered, rehearsed, 
and admired, by all lovers of such noble traits of character 
wherever they are known, as long as those grand old mountains 
stand as silent witnesses, but perpetual reminders, of the scenes 
here related. 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS 

CONCERNING ROUTES, DISTANCES, OUTFITS, EXPENSES, WITH OTHER 
USEFUL INFORMATION ABOUT THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


PREFATORY. 

When ‘‘Rambles in Wonderland” was first published, it 
was not intended for a guide-book, but merely an account of 
what was considered the most wonderful trip of a life-time, 
and a description of the principal objects of interest on the 
route. Since that time many important changes have taken 
place. Two great lines of railroad have been built, one 
almost and the other quite to the border of the Park. Be¬ 
sides this, new curiosities have been discovered, wagon-roads 
made, stage-lines established, new trails opened up, and hotels 
and other accommodations provided which have greatly les¬ 
sened the labor and expense, and added to the convenience 
of the thousands of pleasure-seekers that are annually flock¬ 
ing to this wonderland of the world. 

The general favor with which the aboved-named book 
has been received by the public—for which the author is very 
grateful—and a desire to contribute something more to the in¬ 
terest and general welfare of those who contemplate making 
a tour to the Yellowstone National Park, has prompted the 
preparation of the following pages, which contain many items 
of information relative to routes, outfits, expenses, etc., that 
will prove valuable to tourists. 

LOCATION, AREA, AND HISTORY OF THE PARK 

The Yellowstone National Park is in the north-western 
corner of Wyoming, extends a few miles northward into 
Montana, and takes a small corner of Eastern Idaho. It is, 
( 180 ) 



DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


181 


according to P. W. Norris, sixty-two miles in length from 
north to south, and fifty-four miles in width from east to west, 
embracing an area of three thousand three hundred and forty- 
eight square miles. The action of Congress setting it apart 
as a national pleasure-ground was based principally upon the 
report of Dr. F. V. Hayden, United States Geologist in 187L 
(See Rambles, page 154.) The bill was introduced into the 
Senate in December of that year, b} T S. C. Pomeroy, of Kan¬ 
sas; and about the same time a similar bill was presented be¬ 
fore the House by Hon. William H. Claggett, then Delegate 
from Montana. The bill had able advocates in both Houses, 
passed with little or no opposition, and became a law March 
1, 1872. It was a happy conception, and the Park constitutes 
one of the grandest gifts of a nation to its citizens. The fol¬ 
lowing is a copy of the bill: 

Be it enacted, by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of Amer¬ 
ica in Congress assembled , That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and 
Wyoming, lying near the head-waters of the Yellowstone River, and described as fol¬ 
lows—to wit: Commencing at the junction of Gardiner’s River with the Yellow¬ 
stone River and running east to the meridian passing ten miles to the eastward of 
the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south along the said meridian 
to the parallel of latitude passing ten miles south of the most southern point of Yel¬ 
lowstone Lake; thence west along said parallel to the meridian passing fifteen 
miles west of the most western point of Madison Lake; thence north along said 
meridian to the latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner’s rivers; 
thence east to the place of beginning—is hereby reserved and withdrawn from set¬ 
tlement, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and 
set apart as a public park, or pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the 
people; and all persons who shall locate, settle upon, or occupy the same or any 
part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered trespassers and re¬ 
moved therefrom. 

Sec. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of the Sec¬ 
retary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and 
publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the 
care and management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the pres¬ 
ervation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosi¬ 
ties or wonders within said Park, and their retention in their natural condition. 

The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for building purposes, for 
terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of ground, at such places in said 
Park as shall require the erection of buildings for the accommodation of visitors; 
all of the proceeds of said leases, and all other revenues that may be derived from 
14 


182 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


any source connected with said Park, to be expended, under his direction, in the 
management of the same, and the construction of roads and bridle-paths therein. 
He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game found within 
said Park, and against their capture or destruction for the purpose of merchandise 
or profit. He shall also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the pas¬ 
sage of this act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall be authorized to take 
all such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects and 
purposes of this act. 

The Yellowstone Park does not consist simply of one park, 
or basin, but is made up of many smaller basins, parks, and 
valleys, which are cut through in places by deep canons and 
rugged water-courses, and separated by mountain ranges 
which are generally covered with pine forests and studded with 
bristling peaks that rear their snow-clad summits from eight 
thousand to twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea. 

It is supposed by many that a man by the name of Colter, 
who was honorably discharged from Lewis and Clarke’s ex¬ 
pedition, visited this region some time about 1806-10. If so, 
he is probably the first white man who ever beheld its won¬ 
ders. That trappers visited it in very early times is evident 

from the remains of a cabin and other relics discovered bv 

«/ 

Col. Yorris near the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone, be¬ 
low Mount Washburne. The famous Jim Bridger doubtless 
neard of these wonders from trappers or Indians, but it is 
thought he never visited them. lie told of a river that was 
cold at its source and hot at its mouth. His theory was that 
the heat was caused by the friction of the water flowing rapid¬ 
ly down such a long, heavy grade. The fact of the hot stream 
of water has been verified, but the theory, like many others, 
exploded. 

Captain W. W. Delacy and a party of prospectors were in 
Lower Geyser Basin in 1863. Bart Henderson, Adam Miller, 
George Houston, C. J. Baronette, Fred. Bottler, S. II. Sprague, 
and other prospectors visited this region prior to 1869. They 
gave accounts of what they had seen, but their reports were 
listened to as idle tales. In 1869 Messrs. Cook and Folsom 
made a tour of the Yellowstone and Firehole regions. 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


183 


LITERATURE OF THE PARK. 

The first publication relative to the Firehole region that 
I have seen is that quoted by W. W. Wylie, from the Mon¬ 
tana Post. It is a communication dated at Yellowstone City, 
Montana, August 18, 1867, and written by Davis Willson, 
now of Bozeman, giving an account, at second-hand, of a 
party of stampeders who went as far up as the Yellowstone 
Lake. The article is a curiosity. It has been affirmed that 
Cook and Folsom, who gave a verbal account of their explo¬ 
rations to Surveyor-general Washburne, of Montana, also 
published an account of their trip in a magazine at Chicago, 
Illinois, but I have never seen it. 

In 1870 the Washburne party visited Wonderland, and N. 
P. Langford published an account of it in Scribner's Monthly. 
The report of Lieutenant Doane, who accompanied the ex¬ 
pedition, was published by the Government. Following 
these were Professor Hayden’s published reports in 1871-2; 
and soon after this, Richardson’s “Wonders of the Upper 
Yellowstone.” 

Among other books descriptive of the Park that I have 
seen are “Wonderland,” by Harry Norton (1873); “The 
Yellowstone National Park,” by W. W. Wylie (1882); “The 
Yellowstone National Park,” by Henry J. Windsor (1883); 
“ The Enchanted Land,” by R. E. Strahorn (1881); “Calumut 
of the Coteau,” by P. W. Norris (1883). See also annual re¬ 
ports of Superintendents of the Park, published in pamphlet 
form by the Government, from 1878 to 1883: especially those 
of P. W. Norris, which contain maps and cuts, and much 
valuable information. 

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT THE PARK 
Is in August and the early part of September. The trip can 
be made in July, and even in June; but the Hies and mosqui¬ 
toes are very troublesome, and the melting snows render the 
streams, where not bridged, difficult to cross. September is 
a good time to go, were it not for the equinoctial storm that 
generally comes about this season. Just after the storm, there 


184 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


is usually a spell of fine weather, which many take advantage 
of and visit Wonderland, even as late as October, though 
nights get pretty cool then, and there is danger of a snow¬ 
storm. The weather in July and August is almost uniformly 
good. 

TIME REQUIRED TO MAKE THE ROUNDS. 

If in great haste—which, however, the tourist should be 
sure to avoid, as this is the trip of a life-time—the Geyser 
Basins, Yellowstone Falls, Lake, and Canon, and a few other 
places, can be visited in a stay of from five to seven days in 
the Park; i. e., if you go by public conveyance. But do not 
think of spending less than ten or twelve days, and twenty 
if possible. If you have your own conveyance, you should 
spend at least fifteen or twenty days, or even longer, in the 
Park. 


OUTFIT. 


This will depend upon how you expect to travel. If by 
public conveyance, which in time will prove cheapest and 
most convenient for persons from a distance, you will need 
little else than plenty of strong and warm woolen clothing, 
and money sufficient to pay your bills. If you have your own 
conveyance, be sure to take plenty of good warm clothing and 
good bedding, with rubber blankets to spread on the ground 
to keep out dampness. The nights are usually very cool. 
The brush and fallen timber are hard on clothing, and the hot 
water and mud, as well as the rocky paths to clamber up and 
down, will test the endurance of your boots. You can get 
along very well without liquors, as the atmosphere is so pure 
and stimulating; but be sure to lay in a good supply of substan¬ 
tial food , such as tea, coffee, sugar, canned milk, bacon, flour, 
yeast-powder, dried fruits, etc. After you have made the most 
liberal estimates, then you can safely increase the amount by 
one-third or one-half. I have never heard any one complain of 
having too much food, clothing, or bedding, but many have 
complained of not having enough. You will need your fish¬ 
ing-tackle, but will have little use for fire-arms. Take smoked 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


185 


glass or a pair of goggles, as the hot sun reflecting from the 
water, and the hard, stony surface about the springs, is very 
severe on the eyes. 

LIST OF PRICES. 

For the benefit of those who may desire to purchase or hire 
outfits with which to make the tour, the following list of 
prices is given, which will approximate correctness: 


Saddle-ponies,. 

$30 00 to $70 00 

Pack-animals,. 

30 00 to 

50 00 

Saddles,. 

12 00 to 

25 00 

Pack-saddles,. 

3 00 to 

5 00 

Wagon,. 

100 00 to 140 00 

Harness (set),. 

20 00 to 

40 00 

Team horses (each), . . . 

75 00 to 100 00 

Tents (each),. 

12 00 to 

15 00 

Blankets (per pair), . . . 

5 00 to 

10 00 

Hire of saddle-horse (per day), 

1 00 to 

2 00 

Hire of pack-animal (per day), 

1 00 to 

1 50 

Cook, guide, and packer (per day), 3 00 to 

5 00 

Buggy and driver (per day), 

. 4 00 to 

5 00 

Flour (per hundred-weight), . 

2 50 to 

4 00 

Beans (per pound), . . . 

10 to 

15 

Coffee (per pound), .... 

25 to 

35 

Tea (per pound), .... 

40 to 

1 25 

Pice (per pound),. 

12 to 

15 

Dried fruit (per pound), . 

15 to 

20 

Yeast powder (per pound), . 

40 to 

45 

Bacon (per pound), . . . 

22 to 

25 

Board at hotel (per day), . . 

3 00 to 

5 00 

Bedding, tent and board (per day), 3 00 to 

4 00 

3-seat carriage and driver (per day), 

8 00 

2-seat carriage and driver (per day), 

7 00 


Outfits can be obtained at Virginia City, Bozeman, Mam* 
moth Springs, or of G. W. Marshall, in Firehole Basin, in 
almost any shape desirable. 




186 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


You can buy or hire teams, saddle or pack horses, tents, 
bedding, provisions, for any length of time just as you prefer. 
Prices for articles purchased may be a shade higher in the 
Park than outside. People do not all go there for their health 
alone. 

SIZE AND SELECTION OF PARTIES. 

Parties of from four to six or eight persons are preferable, 
and they should be selected with great care, and a mutual un¬ 
derstanding had as to the part each one is to perforn on the 
trip. You will have great need of patience and forbearance, 
for camp-life tries human nature. 

GUIDES 

Are not as much needed as formerly; but those expecting to 
travel much on horseback will need a man to do the packing, 
and it is well to get one who can perform both offices, and 
cook too, for that matter. 

It will not be difficult to get men who will furnish saddle 
and pack animals, bedding, and board to persons wishing to 
visit special points. 

THE COST OF TRIP TO PARK 

Has been greatly reduced within the last few years. The 
trip from St. Paul, Omaha, or Kansas City, to and through 
the Park, including a stay of ten or twelve days, can be made 
for about 8165 or $200, including price of a round-trip ticket 
($90), stage fare through the Park ($25), and board at four or 
five dollars per day ($50). See list of prices on pages 189-190. 

THE DISTANCES 

As given on pages 213-217 are taken mostly from figures pub¬ 
lished by P. W. Norris, ex-Superintendent of the Park, and 
are supposed to approximate correctness, though in several 
cases I think the tourist will consider the miles pretty long 
ones. 

SUPERINTENDENTS OF THE PARK. 

N. P. Langford was the first Superintendent of the Yel¬ 
lowstone National Park. He received his appointment soon 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


187 


after the passage of the act by Congress withdrawing it from 
the public domain. He was succeeded by P. W. Norris in 
1877. Mr. Norris was very active in making new explora¬ 
tions, opening up new trails and bridle-paths, building wagon- 
roads, and disseminating intelligence relative to the Park. 
He was succeeded in 1882 by Mr. P. II. Congor, the present 
incumbent, who will do all in his power for the comfort and 
welfare of his thousands of guests. The Superintendent and 
his assistants are supported by a salary from the Government, 
and an appropriation is made each year by Congress to make 
such improvements as are deemed necessary, and to keep the 
roads in repair. The annual appropriation has varied from 
$10,000 to $15,000. 

THE SUPERINTENDENT’S HEAD-QUARTERS 

Are at Mammoth Hot Springs, where that officer resides in a 
log-building on a mound or hill of considerable height near 
the springs. There are also some Government buildings at 
Firehole Basin. Congress has recently made provision for 
the appointment of Assistant Superintendents, who are to aid 
in securing observance of 

THE RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE PARK. 

A letter from the Superintendent of the Park at Mammoth 
Hot Springs, dated April 22, 1884, states the following syn¬ 
opsis of the present rules: 

“All hunting is prohibited, and the wounding or killing of 
game or any bird; and no fish is to be taken in the Park, ex¬ 
cept with hook and line. No specimens are to be collected, 
nor the formations or incrustations about the springs, gey¬ 
sers, or any other natural curiosities, in any manner to he de¬ 
faced nor disturbed. Particular caution to be had in regard to 
camp-fires. All fires are to be extinguished before leaving 
camp. I suppose that these rules will be revised and amend¬ 
ed immediately after the present session of Congress. 

“ P. II. Congor, Superintendent” 

Though these rules are subject to change, as will be seen, 
© * 


188 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


yet the above will give the reader an idea of their nature and 
intent. 

HOW TO REACH THE PARK. 

The tourist in the East or South, desiring to visit Wonder¬ 
land, can take choice of the two great Pacific railway lines, 
known as the Southern and Northern routes. The first is 
from Kansas City, over the Kansas Pacific via Denver and 
Cheyenne; or from Omaha via Union Pacific to Ogden, Utah; 
thence by the Utah Northern to Beaver Canon, Idaho, where 
he takes the stage, or private conveyance, up the Snake River 
Valley to the Lower Firehole Basin, one hundred miles from 
the railroad. Or, he can follow the railroad northward from 
Beaver Canon to Dillon, then take stage to Virginia City, 
Montana (sixty-five miles), and thence by private convey¬ 
ance up the Madison Valley to Lower Firehole Basin, in the 
Park, ninety-five miles farther. Or, if desirable to see more 
of Montana Territory, he can follow the Utah Northern on 
via Silver Bow Junction (stopping over at Butte) to Garrison, 
where he takes the Northern Pacific eastward via Helena and 
Bozeman to Livingstone, and thence to the Park. 

The Northern route is by the Northern Pacific from St. 
Paul to Livingstone, thence up the Yellowstone Valley via 
the National Park Branch Railway to its terminus at the 
border of the Park, where a stage line connects with trains, 
taking passengers over the mountain to Mammoth Hot 
Springs, eight miles distant. 

Each of these routes has its advantages, and each offers 
reduced rates to tourists, which are given below. 

By taking the Southern route the tourist can see the “ Great 
Plains,' 5 visit Denver and other interesting points in Colorado, 
also Cheyenne, and the Great Salt Lake. It involves a stage 
ride of two days from Beaver Canon to Firehole Basin. But 
the officers of this route will do all in their power for the 
accommodation and comfort of tourists. 

The Northern route offers an “All Rail Line,” and some¬ 
what shorter route, to the boundary line of the Park. Those 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


189 


who desire can come by one route and return by the other— 
enter the Park at Mammoth Springs and leave at Firehole 
Basin via stage and Utah Northern Railway, or vice versa. 

To those who live in the South or South-west the South¬ 
ern route is preferable. 

Tourists from San Francisco can reach the Park via the 
Central Pacific to Ogden, thence over the Utah Northern 
Railway, and from Portland, Oregon, by way of the Northern 
Pacific eastward to Livingstone, and thence as above described 
to the Park. 

The following will give 

ROUND-TRIP RATES TO FIREHOLE BASIN VIA UNION 

PACIFIC RAILWAY. 

“Omaha, Nebraska, April 5, 1884. 

“ E. J. Stanley, Esq.— Dear Sir: Please find herewith list 
of round-trip rates from Omaha or Kansas City to Firehole 
Basin and return, the point to which we ticket our Yellow¬ 
stone passengers: 

Party of 1 to 5.$90 00 each. 

Party of 5 to 15 . 85 00 each. 


Party of 15 to 25 80 00 each. 

Partv of 25 to 50 . 75 00 each. 

«/ 

Party of 50 to 75 70 00 each. 

Party of 75 to 100 . 65 00 each. 

Partv of 100 or more. 60 00 each. 

«/ 

Rate from Ogden. 45 00 each. 


“ Tickets will he placed on sale June 1—good to return 
until September 30, with usual stop-over privileges. Above 
rates are made via Beaver Canon only. Yours truly, 

“ C. S. Stebbins, 6r. T. AD 

Parties holding first-class tickets to and beyond Ogden, 
going East or West, can purchase round-trip tickets from Og¬ 
den to Firehole Basin, Yellowstone Park, and return via 
Beaver Canon, for $45. Fare (round trip) from Beaver Canon 
to Firehole Basin, over Bassett Brothers stage line, $25. 
Round-trip tickets from Omaha, Leavenworth, St. Joseph, 





190 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


or Kansas City, to San Francisco, $100 to $180—according 
to size of party. For additional information, inquire ot C. S. 
Stebbins, General Ticket Agent Union Pacific Railway, Oma¬ 
ha, Nebraska. 

NORTHERN PACIFIC RATES TO MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 

Regular rate (one way), St. Paul, Minneapolis, or Duluth, 
to Mammoth Hot Springs, $59.20. 

Regular rate (one way), Portland, Oregon, to Mammoth 
Ilot Springs, $66.45. 

Round-trip tourist rates from St. Paul, Minneapolis, Du¬ 
luth, or Portland, to Yellowstone National Park Hotel, at 
Mammoth Hot Springs, and return —-just the same as those 
given in above table. 

Tickets on sale June 1; good until September 30—with 
usual stop-over privileges. 

For full particulars, address J. R. Berry, General Tourist 
^4gent, Chicago, Illinois; any authorized agent of the North¬ 
ern Pacific Railway, or Charles S. Fee, General Passenger 
Agent, St. Paul, Minn. 

A DAILY LINE OF STAGES IS IN OPERATION 
From Mammoth Hot Springs, making the grand rounds to 
all the principal objects of interest in the Park. The fare 
for the round trip through the Park is $25. The trip can 
be made in from five to seven days—-just owing to the time 
spent in sight-seeing. 

ACCOMMODATIONS IN THE PARK 

Are much better than formerly. By permission from Con¬ 
gress, the Secretary of the Interior has executed a lease to 
the Yellowstone National Park Improvement Company (or 
Rufus Hatch & Co.), at a nominal rent, ten acres of ground at 
different points in the Park for hotel purposes for ten years, 
distributed as follows: Two acres near Mammoth Hot Springs; 
one and one-half acre at Upper Geyser Basin, east of Old 
Faithful Gevser; one and one-half acre on Madison River, 
near western boundary of Park; one acre just east of Soda 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


191 


Springs; one and one-half acre just east of Tower Falls; one 
and one-half acre near the head of the Grand Canon and 
Falls of Yellowstone; and one acre on the bank of Yellow¬ 
stone Lake, near the outlet. The Secretary of the Interior 
is to be advised with in regard to the character of buildings 
and outhouses erected thereon; and the prices for accommo¬ 
dations are to be submitted for his approval; and he is also to 
have the privilege of leasing ground for similar purposes to 
other parties, thus preventing a monopoly. The company is 
required to build a fine hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, which 
is to cost not less (with appurtenances) than one hundred and 
fifty thousand dollars. An elegant and commodious building 
was erected at this place last spring, which is said to be quite 
similar to the famous Hotel La Fayette, of Lake Minnetonka. 
It has two hundred and fifty rooms, is to be furnished with 
electric lights, and its accommodations are expected to be 
first-class in every particular. It will be open in good season 
for the summer’s travel. 

Mr. G. W. Marshall has a good hotel at the forks of Fire- 
hole River, in the Lower Geyser (or Firehole) Basin, which 
will accommodate thirty or forty guests. 

Last year the Park Company had boarding and lodging 
tents, made of heavy canvas, in Upper Geyser Basin and at 
the Great Falls of the Yellowstone. Thev will doubtless erect 
hotels at all the points designated in the lease, and the tourist 
will thus be comfortably provided for at any point of interest 
in the Park during the coming season. 

ROUTES TO THE PARK BY WAGON OR HORSEBACK. 

While parties from a distance will visit Wonderland by rail 
and stage, yet many who live near by will prefer to go by 
their own conveyance, which is less expensive and far more 
satisfactory, as there need be no hurry to rush through. One 
route of this character, available for persons goingfrom Snake 
River Valley, is by the stage line from Beaver Canon. The 
route is natural and easy: up a branch of Snake River, 
through a good pass, to Lower Geyser Basin—ninety-eight 


192 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


or one hundred miles. The next is that from Virginia City 
to Lower Geyser Basin. This leaves Virginia City at the 
south-east side, leads over a divide to Madison River (a beau¬ 
tiful stream seventy-five yards in width), and follows up the 
valley, crossing and recrossing the river. About forty-two 
miles from Virginia City it leaves the river to the left, leads 
through a pass to the right, crossing the main range of the 
Rocky Mountains, where a splendid view of the surrounding 
country is obtained. The Three Tetons loom up grandly to 
the south-west. A short ride brings you to Henry’s Lake, a 
beautiful sheet of water two miles wide by five in length, with 
low pebbly and grassy shores, and surrounded by romantic 
peaks, and is almost within five hundred feet of the summit 
of the Rockies, on the Pacific slope. Its surface is fiecked 
with water-fowl, and its waters are full of excellent salmon- 
trout, with which a Mr. Sawtelle has for years furnished the 
market at Virginia City, and other points in Montana. It is 
sixty miles from Virginia City—a day and a half’s ride—and 
a splendid place to camp and fish, and enjoy the inspiration 
of the surrounding scenery. The mountains are full of large 
game. The road from here turns eastward, crosses the main 
range again to the Upper Madison Valley, and about fifteen 
miles from Henry’s Lake the south fork of -the Madison 
River is crossed, where there is a good camp. About two 
miles from here the traveler enters the Park from the west, 
and a ride of ten miles or more over a splendid road, with 
the Madison River on the left, brings you to Riverside, twen¬ 
ty-two miles from Henry’s Lake, and a fine camp. From 
here there is one (the old) road leading up the river through 
the canon; the other leads over a very steep mountain to 
the right. The mountain-road now takes precedence, as it 
saves fording the river several times. The summit furnishes 
another fine view of the surrounding scenery. It is about 
twelve miles from Riverside to Marshall’s Hotel, in Firehole 
Basin, over the mountain, and a little less by the river 
route. 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


193 


The other route is from Bozeman to Mammoth Hot Springs. 
This is easily found, as it leads by a good road south-easterly 
from Bozeman, through a deep mountain gorge, over a di¬ 
vide, then down Trail Creek to the Yellowstone Valley, and 
up the river and valley past Bottler's Banch to Mammoth 
Springs, seventy-live miles from Bozeman. Most of this route 
has been described in “ Rambles.” 

Parties going by private conveyance would do well to take 
along with their wagons a few saddles, one or two extra sad¬ 
dle-animals, and a pack-saddle or two. They are a great con¬ 
venience in visiting places off the main routes, where wagons 
cannot be taken. Where several gentlemen go together, they 
often prefer to make the entire trip on horseback, carrying 
their baggage on pack-animals. This is a very independent 
mode of traveling. 

Choice of routes to the Park will depend largely upon the 
point where you start from. If you enter by Virginia City 
and Henry's Lake, it is well to return by Bozeman ; and if you 
enter by Bozeman and Mammoth Springs, it is well, if not 
too inconvenient, to return the other way. The advantage 
of going by Mammoth Springs, if any difference, is that the 
tourist sees the wonders of the Park more in their natural 
order. The first sight of Mammoth Springs removes all his 
misgivings, he feels amply repaid for coming, and his appe¬ 
tite is whetted for other wonders. Leaving the springs, after 
exploring its adjacent curiosities, he is led b } 7 Obsidian Cliffs, 
Norris Geyser Basin, Monument Geyser and Point Pots, Gib¬ 
bon Canon and Falls, Lower and Middle Geyser Basins, right 
up to the grand geysers of the world in Upper Firehole Ba¬ 
sin. All this time curiosity has been on tiptoe, and he has 
enjoyed seeing many things which will appear tame after a 
visit to the geysers. He now seeks refreshment along the 
shores of Yellowstone Lake and River, at the Great Falls 
and Grand Canon (the finest scene in the entire Park), on 
top of Mount Washburne, fishing at Tower Falls; returning 
by Fossil Forest and East Gardner Falls to the springs. 


194 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


Or, if preferable, be can enter at Lower Geyser Basin, go 
to Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone Lake, Great Falls and 
Grand Canon of the Yellowstone, Mount Washburne, Tower 
Falls, Fossil Forest, East Gardiner Falls, and Mammoth 
Spring, then return by Obsidian Cliffs, Norris Geyser Basin, 
Gibbon Falls and Canon, to Lower Geyser Basin. Or, he can 
just reverse this order if he chooses, and go first to Norris 
Basin, Mammoth Springs, Tower Falls, Great Falls and Canon, 
Lake, and back to Upper Geyser Basin. 

ROUTES WITHIN THE PARK. 

From Mammoth Springs to the Geyser Basins. 

As the trip described in “ Rambles in Wonderland” com¬ 
menced at Mammoth Springs, it was thought the more nat¬ 
ural way to commence these notes at the same place. If the 
tourist should enter the Park at the Lower Gevser Basin, or oth- 
er points, the notes and distances as given can be easily made 
to answer the same purpose. The first point to be noticed is 

The Mammoth Hot Springs, for a description of which see 
“Rambles,” pages 54-61. There have been many changes 
here since 1873, notable among which are the head-quarters 
building on the hill and the splendid hotel and out-buildings. 
On the bank of that clear stream, coming in from the right, 
up in the edge of the pines, is where we had our tents pitched. 
The Liberty Cap still stands, and also the Bee-hive just above 
it, which has changed its name to Giant’s or Devil’s Thumb. 
There are good conveniences for bathing. Two or three 
days, or more, can be profitably spent here visiting adjacent 
peaks, canons, and water-falls. A half or a whole day can 
be profitably spent visiting 

The Middle Gardiner Falls and Canon, which are reached 
by a bridle-path leading nearly due south, about four miles 
from the springs. The cataract falls about three hundred 
feet, one-third of which is perpendicular. The canon is from 
twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet deep, and in its gor¬ 
geous coloring and wonderful carving resembles somewhat 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


19 £> 


the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone. The falls and canon 
are well worth seeing. Two miles above the falls, in the 
canon to the south-west, are the 

Sheep Eater Cliffs, along the base of which are what is 
supposed to have been the haunts of the Sheep Eater Indians, 
who inhabited these mountain fastnesses vears ago. And 
about three miles from the falls, following an intricate trail 
over the rocks and through the timber to the south-west, you 
will reach the wagon-road leading to the Geyser Basins. 

Departure from the Springs. The road starts near the 
Devil’s Thumb and leads up the steep face of Terrace Mount¬ 
ain for two miles to the summit. The grade is good, but very 
steep in places, and requires nearly half a day, with frequent 
resting of team, if loaded, to reach the top. The altitude is 
three thousand feet above the hotel. Much of the way is 
through a dense growth of timber. From the summit a slight 
descent is made, and a turn to the left through an open val¬ 
ley and a ride of three miles brings you to Swan Lake, a 
good camping place on the right, five miles from the springs. 
By turning to the left two and one-quarter miles from the 
summit, and following a trail half a mile, at the head of the 
canon on West Gardiner River, you will find a beautiful cas¬ 
cade called Rustic Falls. The river tumbles nearly sixty feet 
over a precipice. The banks are lined with ferns, and the 
scene is picturesque and captivating. 

About two and one-fourth miles from Swan Lake, the Mid¬ 
dle Gardiner is crossed, and one mile farther on is Indian 
Creek. About five miles from here to the west is Bell’s Peak. 
The general course of the road from the summit of Terrace 
Mountain is southward. Follow up Obsidian Creek to upper 
end of 

Willow Park, which is eleven miles from the springs. 
Plenty of wood, grass, and good water, but no fish in the 
streams. Camp here. Some good cold springs on the right 
one mile above here, the last good water for five or ten miles, 
except Lake of the Woods, which is only passable. 


196 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


Obsidian Cliffs and Beaver Lake are two miles farther on. 
The cliffs are composed of volcanic glass, mostly black, ex¬ 
cept some of a reddish hue at the southern end. They rise 
in columns from one hundred to two hundred and fifty feet 
along the mountain. The grade along their base was made 
by building fires upon the great blocks of glass, heating and 
then throwing cold water upon them to fracture them, after 
which the} 7 were pounded down with sledge-hammers. These 
cliffs are quite a curiosity. The Indians manufactured their 
arrow-heads from this material, small bits of which are found 
all through the Park. Beaver Lake lies on the right of the 
road, and is fed by the poisonous waters of Green Creek, 
which enter from the right toward the tipper, or southern, 
end. The road from here leads up a steep grade, passing 
some nauseous brimstone springs on the right, to the sum¬ 
mit of the divide between the Yellowstone and Madison riv¬ 
ers, where a fine view is obtained of the lofty mountains to 
the west and north-west. Just over the summit to the left 
of the road is 

Lake of the Woods, so named because it is surrounded by 
towering pines, whose lofty shadows are reflected in its crys¬ 
tal depths. 

Norris Valley, a nice grassy park, is two miles farther on. 
Three miles from here is the crossing of the Norris Fork of 
the Gibbon River, where it is advisable to make camp from 
which to explore the wonders of 

Norris Geyser Basin, which is one-half mile farther south, 
on each side of the road. Here are the first geysers to be 
seen on this route, and the beholder is apt to be astonished 
above measure. Clouds of steam and jets and columns of 
water are ascending constantly. Springs and great gur¬ 
gling, surging caldrons are boiling and fussing and sputtering, 
and subterranean thunderings and rumblings, like the noise 
of heavy machinery, are coming up constantly. This is one 
of the oldest geyser basins in the Park, but it seems to be 
declining in activity and power. The numerous springs fur- 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


197 


nish many shades of color—yellow, blue, and black. On the 
right of the road to the south-west is the “ Constant,” then 
the “Twins” and “Triplets,” which are spouting almost 
constantly; and farther along on the same side, on the ridge, 
is a caldron which throws out a great quantity of a muddy, 
paint-like substance, having a leaden hue, several feet high. 
It acts about every fifteen or twenty minutes. Another cra¬ 
ter near this one sends out vast quantities of super-heated 
steam, and is called “ Steam-boat Vent.” 

On the left of the road, a few rods from the mud caldron, 
is the “Emerald Pool,” a large emerald-tinted basin, with 
coral-like sides, filled with water clear as crystal, making it 
an object of indescribable beauty. Then there is the “ Min¬ 
ute-man,” at the foot of the ridge, spouting a six-inch jet 
every sixty seconds to the height of say twenty-five feet. Still 
farther to the east and south is the “ Monarch ” of the basin, 
which daily sends up a splendid column of hot water to the 
height of about one hundred feet. On the left, soon after 
entering the basin, is one which Colonel P. W. Norris de¬ 
scribes as “a geyser of erratic habits and irregular periods of 
eruption of its column of waters, which is sometimes one 
hundred feet high, but usually much less.” There is also 
the “Vixen,” the “Fearless,” and others of less importance, 
in this basin. About four miles from the last camp we 
come to 

Elk Park, or Gibbon Basin, or Meadows, as it has been 
variously called, which is a park about five miles in extent, 
surrounded by mountains which are covered with timber. It 
is a fine place to camp, and tourists should not attempt to 
o’o farther if it is late in the day, as there is no grass on the 
route between here and the Lower Geyser Basin, fifteen miles 
distant. Two objects of interest are near here. 

The Paint Pots are found in an opening in the timber, 
about half a mile eastward around a bluff, and consist of sev¬ 
eral boiling springs which cast out a paste-like substance ot 
pverv hue and tint imaginable. One of the springs is red as 
15 


198 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


blood, and has been called “Blood Geyser/’ The great col¬ 
umn of steam constantly rising will indicate the locality of 
this group, and the singular phenomena will amply repay 
you for the trouble of a visit. You should he sure to visit 

Monument Geyser Basin. Just at the head of Gibbon Can¬ 
on, after leaving camp, there is a foot-bridge over Gibbon Riv¬ 
er, on the right of the road, to a trail on the opposite bank of 
the stream, following which, over the steep ascent of Mount 
Schurz, this basin is reached, one mile distant, at an eleva¬ 
tion of one thousand feet above the river-bed. The trip can 
be made on horseback, if you are careful to avoid getting 
your horse’s feet scalded at the bank in crossing the river. 
There are several acres in the basin, and a dozen or more of the 
springs are surrounded by grotesque formations like monu¬ 
ments, varying from four or live to fifteen feet in height. 
Some resemble chimneys, some wild animals, and others send 
out volumes of steam, smoke, and heated air, with whizzing, 
rushing sounds that till you with terror, and may be heard for 
miles. There are also caldrons of boiling sulphur, and many 
other objects of interest. The view of the surrounding land¬ 
scape is quite enjoyable, and amply compensates for the trip. 

Gibbon Canon. The wagon-road follows through this won¬ 
derful gorge for several miles, amid small geysers and boil¬ 
ing springs, which spurt and bubble up along both sides of 
the river. The overhanging walls, towering up at one place 
to a height of two thousand feet, present a scene of rugged 
grandeur seldom witnessed. The road leads hy a gradual 
grade from the river to the top of the canon on the left op¬ 
posite 

The Gibbon Balls, which are four miles from the head of 
the canon. They are reached by a trail on the right of the 
road leading down the steep declivity to the very brink. 
There is another trail that leads to the foot of the falls. The 
water tumbles eighty feet over a cliff, and presents a lively 
and enchanting view. Passing Canon Creek, two and one- 
half miles below the falls, and Earthquake Cliffs, five miles 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


199 


from the falls, a ride of ten miles (from the falls) over numer¬ 
ous woodland terraces brings you out into 

1 he Lower Geyser Basin, where you follow up the left 
bank of Firehole River, take the right-hand road, cross the 
East Fork, then the West Fork of Firehole River, or cross 
the main stream just below the forks, and you are at Mar¬ 
shall’s Hotel, near the forks of the above-named stream. 
Here are hotel accommodations for thirty or forty guests, 
and a supply store. There was a post-office here, but I un¬ 
derstand it has been discontinued. The roads from Virginia 
City, and also from Beaver Canon, come in at this point. The 
roads to Upper Geyser Basin and to and from the Yellow¬ 
stone Lake and Falls converge here. It is quite a road-center, 
and the tourist can go from here in almost any direction he 
may choose. You are now so near the great geysers of the 
world that 

The Temptation becomes very great to hurry right on. 
But by so doing you will miss many objects of great interest. 
By seeing them now, your appetite will only be whetted for 
the greater wonders still ahead, whereas if you wait until the 
return trip they will not have half the attraction for you. 
Be sure to stop a day or more here. A good camping place 
can be found near the hotel, or a mile south, on the same side 
of the river, in Geyser Meadows. A ride of two miles south¬ 
ward from the hotel, through beautiful grassy openings, 
skirted by lovely woodlands, will bring you to 

Queen’s Laundry, a lovely spring, possessing wonderful 
cleansing properties. There is a large central spring and 
numerous smaller ones descending in terraces, the water grow¬ 
ing cooler as it gets farther from the central spring, which 
is very hot. It is a good place for a bath. Year here are 
the 

Twin Domes, or Buttes, the summits of which offer a good 
view of the Basin. And just beyond these, up the little 
stream called Fairy Falls Creek, at the foot of the mountain, 
are the beautiful, the fascinating 


200 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


Fairy Falls, two hundred feet high, a view of which no 
tourist should miss. 

•••* 

Returning to the hotel, recross the East and West Forks of 
the Firehole River, follow up the East Fork on the west side 
one mile, and recross to the south side. This is called Pros¬ 
pect Point. Here there is a blacksmith-shop and other Gov¬ 
ernment buildings. One mile on the road leading southward 
from Prospect Point is 

Camp Reunion, an old and favorite camping place for the 
early tourists. It is in the edge of the timber, and by the side 
of a beautiful little stream of water. We camped here in 
1873. On an eminence a short distance to the south of this 
camp is a group of hot springs, at the southern extremity of 
which is Thud Geyser. This is a very interesting group. 
South of this a quarter of a mile is another group, among 
which, on a table-like mound, is the beautiful Fountain Gey¬ 
ser. It has a curiously shaped crater, lined with formations 
resembling cushions, and spouts every day, and sometimes 
three or four times a day, to a height of forty or sixty feet. 
A little farther southward from the Fountain is a beaded 
funnel-like crater, which frequently sends a jet of water ten 
or fifteen feet high. It is called the Jet Geyser. Eastward 
from the Fountain, beyond some skirting pines and large 
bowlders, on an eminence, is a great mud caldron, inclosed 
by a rim several feet high, and known as 

The Paint Pot, or Chalk Vat, and other appropriate 
names. It contains a fine paste-like substance of a beautiful 
white, at the south end, and a delicate pink color at the 
north end. It is in constant agitation, boiling up in great 
globules or rings a foot or more high, which burst and send 
the delicate substance several feet up in the air. 

From Camp Reunion follow the road leading south¬ 
westerly across the basin, then up the east side of Firehole 
River three miles, to 

Midway Geyser Basin, or Hell’s Half Acre. It is on 
the opposite side of the river, and is reached by a road lead- 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


201 


ing over to it. Do not try to ford while the great geyser just 
above is in action, if you do not wish to get your horses’ feet 
badly scalded. The most noted spring in this group, which 
is described in “ Rambles” (see pages 94, 95), has become one 
of the most powerful geysers in the Park. Colonel Norris 
states that its eruptions in 1880 were most powerful, sending 
up an immense column of water from one hundred to three 
hundred feet high, belching out great quantities of rocks, 
and they were repeated once in each twenty-four hours. It is 
said to spout oftener now. It was called the “Excelsior” by 
Colonel Norris, but has since been named by others the 
“ Sheridan,” in honor of that distinguished General, who re¬ 
cently visited the Park. The coloring along the streams flow¬ 
ing from this group into the river is most exquisite. After 
“doing” this basin, return to the main road, follow it up 
the east side of the Firehole River, over a passable route, five 
miles, to the 

Upper Firehole Basin. Pass the Fan Geyser on the 
right, near the river, and between that and the Riverside just 
above cross the Firehole River, and follow up the west side. 
Just a short distance from the crossing, on your right, is the 
Grotto Geyser. Two hundred yards south-west of this is the 
Giant , on the left of the road, which will be readily recog¬ 
nized by the description given in “Rambles” (page 113). 
About two hundred yards almost west of the Giant, on a 
white mound of geyserite formation, is the Splendid , which is 
very powerful, and has developed within the last few years. 
Near the river-bank, a short distance south of the Giant, is a 
pool about thirty by fifty feet, ornamented with white glob¬ 
ular masses, which is called the Oblong Geyser , though, from 
the singular jets of steam shooting out from the main body 
of water when in action, it has been called the Comet. About 
one-third of a mile above the Giant, near the road, in the 
edge of timber, on a prominent cone, is the Castle , four hun¬ 
dred feet from the river; just north of which, on the same 
mound, is the beautiful blue spring, sometimes called the 


202 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


Devil’s Well.” Just back of this, to the west, is a good place 
for a small part) 7 to camp, as it is quite central. The little 
grove on the river-bank, a few hundred yards to the left of 
the Castle, has also been a favorite camping place. The Grand 
Geyser is located at the base of a bluff, nearly opposite the 
Castle, five hundred feet east of the river. On the same gey¬ 
ser mound, or platform, is the Turban. Southward from the 
Grand, and not far from the river, is the Saw-mill, one of my 
favorites; and not far away are also the Bulger, the Tardy, and 
the Spasmodic , which are geysers of lesser note. The Lion, 
Lioness , and Two Cabs constitute a group of geysers situated 
on a mound next above the Saw-mill, up and east of the river, 
a short distance west of the Giantess. The Lioness and the 
Two Cubs are close together, while the Lion crouches about 
fifty feet away, and sometimes in his rage sends the boiling 
water fifty or sixty feet in the air. The wonderful Giantess 
is a short distance eastward, on a sloping mound. A little 
over one hundred yards distant from the Giantess, south-west, 
near the foot-bridge, is the beautiful Bee-hive; and across the 
river, on an eminence, southward, standing like a faithful 
sentinel, is Old Faithful, which is a universal favorite. 

As the most of the geysers here mentioned, and the prin¬ 
cipal features of the Upper Geyser Basin, have been described 
in “ Rambles” (see pages 97-116), and as the accompanying 
table gives names, intervals, and heights of eruptions, as 
gathered from the most reliable sources available, it is un¬ 
necessary here to do more than merely indicate the location, 
which I have tried briefly to do. The tourist will prefer see¬ 
ing them with his own eyes to any description that might be 
attempted with pen or pencil. 

Two or three days, at least, should be spent in this basin. 
Even then you may not see all the geysers in eruption, as they 
often go off in the night. 

A favorite camping place is right west of Old Faithful 
Geyser, where there is a small park and some grass. But by 
going three-fourths of a mile south or south-west of Old 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


203 


Faithful, through the open timber, you will find a large open 
park with excellent grass and a fine place to picket horses. 

TABLE SHOWING INTERVALS OF ERUPTIONS AND HEIGHTS 

OF DIFFERENT GEYSERS 


UPPER GEYSER BASIN. 

Pkriod op Eruption. 


Name. 

Old Faithful. 

Bee-hive. 

Giantess.. 

Lion. 

Lioness. 

Castle. 

Grand.. 

Saw-mill. 

Splendid. 

Grotto. 

Giant.. 

Fan. 

Riverside. 


Excelsior, or Sheridan 


Fountain. 


Monarch. 

Minute-man 


55 to 65 minutes. 
About every 24 hours. 
About once a week. 
Not known. 

Not known. 

About every 48 hours. 
Daily or oftener. 

Quite often. 

Each 3 or 4 hours. 
Each 4 or 5 hours. 
Once in 3 or 4 days. 

3 times a day. 

3 times a day. 


Time in Action. 
About 4 minutes. 

7 to 10 minutes. 

12 hours. 

About 5 minutes. 
About 3 minutes. 
About 30 minutes. 
15 to 20 minutes. 

2 to 2% hours. 

4 to 10 minutes. 

5 to 15 minutes. 
About 1% hour. 

8 to 15 minutes. 

10 to 15 minutes. 


MIDWAY GEYSER BASIN. 

| Each 3 or 4 hours. | 3 to 5 minutes. 

LOWER GEYSER BASIN. 

| Each day or oftener. | 5 to 15 minutes. 

NORRIS GEYSER BASIN. 

.| Daily. 20 to 30 minutes. 

.| Each minute. A half minute. 


Height op Column. 
125 to 150 feet. 
About 200 feet. 

75 to 250 feet. 

75 feet. 

60 feet. 

50 to 80 feet. 

100 to 200 feet. 

15 to 35 feet. 

150 to 200 feet. 

25 to 50 feet. 

100 to 200 feet. 
About 60 feet. 
About 60 feet. 


| 50 to 250 feet. 

| 50 to 100 feet. 

I 50 to 100 feet. 
I 20 to 30 feet. 


From Upper Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake there are 
two routes. If you are in a vehicle you will have to return to 
the Lower Basin, but if on horseback it is well to go by the 
Upper Firehole and Shoshone Lake Trail, over which 
there will perhaps be a wagon-road at some future time. If 
you choose this route, take the trail past Old Faithful, follow 
up the river, and nearly one mile up cross to the east side. 
Yearly two miles distant are 

Kepler’s or Firehole Falls, a lovely retreat, where the 
principal cataract is perhaps forty feet high. Six miles far¬ 
ther on eastward the trail crosses the main range of the Rock¬ 
ies, through Yorris Pass, after which it follows down a steep 
mountain to 

Delacy’s Creek and Camp, two miles south of which is 
Shoshone Lake, six miles in length and four and a half in 
width on an average, but at some places is very narrow. Its 
outlet is a tributary of Snake River, and its surface lower 
than the Yellowstone Lake. It affords many good camping 
























204 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


places, but its waters contain no fish. At the south-western 
extremity of the lake are a number of geyser springs. 

Following the trail eastward from the crossing of Delacy 
Creek, a ride of three miles through the timber up the mount¬ 
ain brings vou again to the summit of the main divide, near 
Two Ocean Pond, on the left; and another three-mile jaunt 
down the steep mountain, on the Atlantic slope, and you are at 
Hot Spring Camp, on the extreme western arm or thumb 
of Yellowstone Lake. This is a very interesting and most 
remarkable region. Oddly formed craters, some of which 
protrude into the lake, springs of every size, shape, depth, 
color, temperature, and consistency simmer and sizzle and 
spout and gurgle and boil and bubble away without inter¬ 
mission. One of the springs is three hundred feet deep. You 
can look down into the fairy depths of some of them to a 
great distance. There are “paint pools 99 and “paint pots” 
here that possibly surpass any hitherto visited. Streams of 
hot water can be seen bubbling up away out in the lake, 
quite a distance from the shore. The noted “Steam-boat 
Springs,” on the northern end of the lake, east of the out¬ 
let, can be seen from here. The funnel-shaped craters of 
some of these springs stand so far out into the lake as to form 
a real peninsula; and you can actually stand on these cones 
and catch trout and cook them without moving from your 
tracks or taking the fish from the hook. This is no fish story; 
it has been tested frequently. 

Heart Lake and Mount Sheridan, which afford some fine 
views, can be reached by a ride of from ten to twenty miles 
from this camp; but there is no trail, and the fallen timber 
is so dense that it is not advisable to try it. 

Leaving the camp at Hot Springs, the trail leads north¬ 
ward, traverses a firehole basin, leads over a high bluff to a 
hot spring creek, six and a half miles distant, where there is 
a poor camp, and the timber is too thick to picket a horse 
with safety. From here it is six miles north to the famous 
Yatural Bridge, which is on a small creek, about one 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


205 


and one-half mile from the trail, to the left. It is a natural 
causeway over a small stream (Bridge Creek), and is about 
tive feet wide, twenty-nine feet long, and eighty feet from top 
to bottom on the lower side. It has natural balustrades on 
the side, has been used by the large game for crossing, and 
there is a trail leading over so that the tourist can ride across 
if he desires to do so. Colonel Norris says that it was once 
the brink of a cataract which has been undermined by the 
water, thus leaving a natural arch. It is well worth a visit. 

From the bridge the tourist has a delightful ride near the 
shore of the lake to the outlet, five miles distant, where there 
is a good camp, and where is the present terminus of the 
wagon-road, which is described in the 

WAGON-ROAD FROM LOWER GEYSER BASIN TO YELLOW¬ 
STONE LAKE AND GREAT FALLS AND GRAND CANON OF 

THE YELLOWSTONE. 

Return from the upper to the lower basin over the route 
followed going up. The road passes through a gap near 
Prospect Point and Camp Reunion. This is where Cowan 
and party were captured by the Nez Perces in 1877. (See 
“Rambles,” page 158). From here the road leads eastward 
up the general course of the East Fork of theFirehole River, 
which it crosses several times. At Rock Fork, five miles, is 
a good camp, and also at Willow Camp, seven miles. Plenty 
of wood, good water, and grass for stock. No fish. It is 
nearly ten miles to the foot of the steep mountain near where 
Cowan and party were fired upon by the Indians. 

After climbing the long, steep, and densely wooded mount¬ 
ain to tbe divide, a fine view is obtained of the surrounding 
landscape. 

Mary’s Lake, a beautiful sheet of water about one-fourth 
of a mile across, is passed to the right of the road a little 
farther on. Its water, though beautiful to look at, is brack¬ 
ish. Chief Joseph camped just east of here in 1877, the 
night after taking Mrs. Cowan, her sister and brother pris¬ 
oners. His fortifications can be seen yet. 


206 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


The route from here eastward leads amid numerous sul¬ 
phur and other hot springs. Three miles from Mary’s Lake, 
on a small stream coming down from the right, is a grassy cove 
and a good camp. Water passable. Fish found in some of 
the adjacent streams. An interesting group of hot springs 
just down the stream to the left, which are mentioned in 
“ Rambles.” (See page 89.) 

From here the road follows almost due east over a roll¬ 
ing, open country, known as Hayden Valley (see “ Rambles,” 
page 82), seven miles eastward to the old trail leading up the 
Yellowstone River. Keep the right-hand road, and two miles 
farther will bring you to a good camp just to the left of 

Mud Springs and Mud Volcano. The Muddy Geyser, de¬ 
scribed in “ Rambles,” is now inactive, but the volcano will be 
recognized by the mud on the trees around it, and so will an¬ 
other spring just below called the Belcher or Belching Spring. 
Near here is the Nez Perce Ford, the best on the river, and 
where the Nez Perce Indians, under Joseph, crossed in 1877, 
when they were every moment expecting an attack from the 
troops under General Howard. And just east of the river is 
where Mrs. Cowan, her sister, and her brother Frank Carpen¬ 
ter, were released, crossed back to this side—the water almost 
swimming their horses—and were told by the chief to “go 
quick;” which command they were not reluctant to obey. 
(See “ Rambles,” pages 164-165.) It was at this camp that 
our horses played truant, and it took Judge Knowles and my¬ 
self half a day to find them where they had rambled away off 
the wooded mountains to the south-west. 

From here it is six miles up the Yellowstone River to the 
foot of the lake. The road follows near the river, and the 
scenery is enchanting. Parties often divide at Upper Basin, 
some bringing wagons by this route, others going on horse¬ 
back by Shoshone Pass. Here is the meeting-place. Fine 
camp. A week can be spent very pleasantly. Hotel accom¬ 
modations are to be furnished here by the Yellowstone Park 
Improvement Company, which will be at no distant day. And 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


•207 


there will doubtless be sail-boats for those desiring a voyage 
over the lake. 

FROM YELLOWSTONE LAKE TO THE FALLS. 

Return from lake to the forks of the road, two miles north 
of Mud Geyser. One and a half mile north of here, over an 
open sage-brush country, is 

Sulphur Mountain, which has been described in “ Ram¬ 
bles/ 5 page 83. There has been but little change, except that 
the Sulphur Spring at the base of the mountain has lost 
much of its beauty. Major Freeman, of the United States 
Army, declared that spring to be “the prettiest thing in 
the entire Park.” Be sure to see the very interesting mud 
springs which are some distance through the timber, south¬ 
east from the big sulphur spring. 

From Sulphur Mountain to the Falls, northward, is six 
miles or more, crossing Alum Creek on the way. The water 
of Alum Creek is strongly impregnated with alum. The 
wagon-road extends to a point near the Upper Falls. About 
a mile or two south of here, on a little creek, may be found 
the remains of the camp of the Helena party, which was at¬ 
tacked by Indians in 1877. At the camp at the terminus of 
the road Colonel Norris found an inscription on a tree twenty 
inches in diameter, about four feet from the ground—“J. 0. 
R., Aug. 29, 1819 ”—which is still legible. 

The Great Falls and Grand Canon have been so fully de¬ 
scribed in “Rambles,” pages 71-80, that it is necessary to 
say but little here. They continue to be among the greatest 
attractions of Wonderland, and are engagingthe attention of 
some of the finest artists of the world. A fine painting of the 
canon and falls, by Moran, adorns the walls of the Capitol 
building at Washington. 

Prospect Point, one mile below the lower falls, affords one 
of the finest views of the canon. Descent to the water’s edge 
can be made from a point just above this place; but it is very 
dangerous, and I would advise you not to try it. By follow¬ 
ing a trail just west of a little stream near this point, through 


208 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


the timber a few hundred yards from the canon, you will find 
an excellent camping ground, which is quite handy to all the 
points of interest. At the brink ot the Lower halls a railing 
of poles has been prepared, from which you can peer into the 
seething depths below. 

The Crystal Falls of Cascade Creek are about midway be¬ 
tween the Upper and Lower Falls, and are formed by the wa¬ 
ter tumbling over a succession ot ledges, one titty, and another 
about twenty feet in height, above and below the narrow 
bridge that spans the stream. Grotto Pool is just below the 
bridge. Following the creek down to the mouth you will 
find excellent fishing in the river between the Upper and 
Lower Falls. 

It is well for the tourist, if he has time, to follow the brink 
of the Grand Canon down for several miles, as there is much 
in the fantastic shapes and exquisite coloring of the great 
towering walls that is worth while to see. Three or four 
miles down, on the opposite side of the river, a creek drops in¬ 
to the canon at a great depth, and makes a beautiful water-fall. 

Safety-valve Geyser and Painted Cliffs. Three or four 
miles below this, from the lower end of a meadow to the 
right, the bridle-path leads through a pine forest by a steep 
descent to a small geyser with the name given above. Anoth- 
er steep descent leads to the river underneath the Painted 
Cliffs, which are perhaps fifteen hundred feet in height, and 
rather interesting and peculiar. “ This,” says Colonel Norris, 
“is the only place between the mouth of Tower Creek and 
Lower Falls where the descent can be made to the river. r 
Although the fishing is fine, yet it is not advisable to tr}^ it. 
None but the most venturesome will dare go, and then they 
are not apt to be paid for the time and trouble of the climb. 

From the Great Falls to Tower Creek Falls there are 
two routes: one a bridle-path, which skirts along down the 
brink of the Grand Canon for about four miles, then turns to 
the left across the eastern base of Mount Washburne, and fol¬ 
lows down the long grassy ridge to Tower Falls; the other, the 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


209 


old trail which leaves the Upper Falls', turning to the left 
from near Cascade Creek, follows for a distance along the gen¬ 
eral course of that stream, then through fallen timber skirt¬ 
ing Dunraven’s Peak to the left, and up over the western 
base of Mount Washburne, and thence northward to the 
falls. The latter is considered the best route. It is seven¬ 
teen miles by the former and fifteen miles by the latter route. 

Mount Washburne can be reached on horseback from the 
highest point on either trail, and no tourist should fail to go 
to the top, which is only about one mile from the trail. The 
view is extremely grand and inspiring. (See “ Rambles,” 
pages 68-71.) A wagon-road will doubtless be constructed 
from the Great Falls to Tower Falls erelong, which will be a 
great convenience. At 

Tower Falls there is a splendid camping place, with plenty 
of wood, the purest water, and fine grass convenient—about 
two hundred yards above the falls south of the creek. A 
good view can be obtained from a towering cliff overhanging 
the falls; but it is best to go to the mouth of the creek at 
Yellowstone Fiver and follow up through the deep gorge 
over the rocks and fallen trees, which will enable you to get 
right at the foot of the charmingly beautiful cascade. You 
will be loath to leave this delightful retreat. The writer gath¬ 
ered a line mess of raspberries in the canon on the south side 
of the creek during his visit there. The ascent or descent 
can be made by a trail a short distance below the falls, but 
it is very steep. Splendid fishing at the mouth of the creek. 
(See “ Rambles,” pages 64, 65.) 

There is a bridge over this stream near the camp, cross¬ 
ing which the trail leads up a steep bluff northward, where 
we come to the wagon-road from the Mammoth Hot Springs. 
A ride of three miles from here, through open groves and 
down frequent grades, brings you to 

Baronett’s Bridge, across and near the forks of the Yel- 
lowstone. This bridge was built years ago for the accommo¬ 
dation of miners going to Clark’s Fork mines (now Cook 


210 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


City), about thirty miles eastward from this point. Jack Bar- 
onett is the man who found and rescued Mr. Evarts, who was 
lost in the Park for thirty-seven days, in 1870, and came so 
near perishing. He is an old-timer, a “mighty hunter,” and 
a famous guide through the Park and adjacent mountains. 

Less than two miles west from the camp at this bridge, 
says Colonel P. W. Norris, is a small lake, and along the 
steep cliffs to the right, and also to the north, are trunks of 

Petrified Trees still standing, which are from two to fif¬ 
teen or twenty feet high. They are quite ancient, and many 
have fallen down. It is a fine place to gather fragments of 
the fossilized wood, and also specimens of chalcedony, agate, 
amethyst, and other singular formations. They are well worth 
a visit from lovers of such curiosities. 

From the bridge, a ride of thirteen miles, with several fine 
camping places on the route, brings you to 

East Gardiner Falls, another picturesque little cascade— 
a succession of falls about forty feet high, near the road to 
the left, hidden away under the pines as you follow down the 
stream. It will take but a short time to stop and see them, 
after which a drive of three or four miles, crossing East Gar¬ 
diner River on the way, brings the tourist back to the start¬ 
ing-point at Mammoth Springs. 

The trip closing here constitutes the Grand Rounds, and 
includes the objects of general interest to the tourist visiting 
the Yellowstone Park. 

REGION EAST OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER 

Although we have gone over most of the Park that is 
generallv visited bv tourists, yet on the east side of Yellow- 
stone River there is a vast extent of country, broken by high 
mountains and carved by deep canons, which, though it 
abounds with curiosities, yet hardly justifies a visit except from 
the scientist or gentleman of leisure. 

The Clark's Fork Mines are reached by an old and mucb- 
used trail leading from Baronett’s Bridge eastward up the 
East Fork of the Yellowstone. They are twenty-seven miles 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


211 


distant, near the eastern limit of the Park, and contain some 
quartz ledges of considerable promise. 

Fossil Forests abound in the basin of the East Fork, 
Pelican, Tower, and Black Tail creeks. Some of the finest 
specimens are found on Amethyst Mountain. On parts of 
the mountain’s face the trunks of great petrified trees stand 
along the ledges like the columns of an old temple. The 
mountain abounds with trunks and limbs of trees turned into 
stone. Beautiful specimens of agate and crystals of every 
tint are to be found; also in the underlying strata are found 
remains of toads, snakes, and fishes. 

Soda Butte Hot Springs are on the Miner’s Trail, fifteen 
miles south-east of the bridge, and are noted for the me¬ 
dicinal properties of their waters, which are strong^ impreg¬ 
nated with soda. 

Hoodoo Region, or Goblin Land, is the term that has been 
applied by miners and trappers to a section of country about 
forty-five miles south-east of Baronett’s Bridge, noted for the 
countless formations so wild and quaint that they were called 
“ Hoodoos,” or u Goblins.” “ Hoodoo Mountain,” says Colonel 
Horris, “is evidently of volcanic origin, and was eroded into 
its present form. Upon its southern face it is still changing. 
Here, extending from five hundred to fifteen hundred feet 
below the summit, the frosts and storms of untold ages in an 
Alpine climate have worn about a dozen labyrinths of count¬ 
less deep, narrow, tortuous channels amid the long, slender, 
tottering pillars, shafts, and spires of the conglomerate brec¬ 
cia and other remaining volcanic rocks. In shape they are 
unlike any elsewhere known, being a cross between the usual 
spire and the steeple form, and the slender-based and flat, 
tottering, table-topped sandstone monuments near the Garden 
of the Gods in Colorado; and while lacking the beauty of 
these, surpass both in wild, weird fascination. The sharp- 
cornered fragments of rocks of nearly every formation and 
shade of coloring, by a peculiar volcanic cement attached side- 
wise, endwise, and upon the tops, sides, and apparently un- 


212 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


supported, upon each other, represent every form, garb, and 
position of gigantic human beings, as well as of birds, beasts, 
and reptiles. In fact, nearly every form, animate or inani¬ 
mate, real or chimerical, ever actually seen or conjured by the 
imagination, may be here observed.” 

But it is not advisable to go there at present without a 
good guide. 

ANIMALS IN THE PARK. 

Several herds of mountain bison, or buffalo, roam through 
different portions of the Park. They have been seen upon 
the mountain spurs and grassy valleys of East Fork of the 
Yellowstone and Soda Butte, and another herd has been dis¬ 
cerned on the Madison Plateau and Little Madison in the 
western portion of the Park. They are also found in various 
parks along the Pocky Mountain range. Colonel Norris says 
that they are “somewhat smaller, of lighter color, less curly, 
and with horns smaller and less spreading than those of 
the bison that formerly inhabited the great parks of Colo¬ 
rado.” 

There are also elk, moose, white-tailed deer, black-tailed 
deer, prong-horned antelope, big-horned sheep, six varieties 
of the bear tribe, besides the “ wolverine, or long-tailed mud 
bear.” Then, there are the gray, or buffalo wolf, the coyote, 
and another species of a dark-brown color. There are 
skunks, foxes of various colors—red, gray, and black—bad¬ 
gers, “ rock-dogs ” (similar to wood-chuck or ground-hog), por¬ 
cupines, rabbits (jack, and a small species of cotton-tail, sel¬ 
dom seen), sedge-rat, and mountain-rat, mice, burrowing 
moles, squirrels (small, of a dark-brown color), chip-munks, 
beaver, otter, mink, and musk-rats. None of these are so 
numerous as to be pestiferous. The larger game is kept 
back in the mountains from the road, and it hardly pays to 
hunt it. 

CLIMATE. 

Notwithstanding the great altitude of this region, yet even 
the winters are not so cold as would be expected. For the 


DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 


213 


benefit of the reader the following table, compiled from the 
official reports of P. W. Norris, is given, as showing the con¬ 
dition of the weather at Mammoth Springs for the succes¬ 
sive years during the months named: 

For July. 

Sunrise, 59°; midday, 80°; sunset, 63°; mean, 67°. 
Sunrise, 50°; midday, 68°; sunset, 62°; mean, 60°. 
Sunrise, 55°; midday, 77°; sunset, 69°; mean, 67°. 

For August. 

Sunrise, 49°; midday, 74°; sunset, 69°; mean, 64°. 
Sunrise, 50°; midday, 68°; sunset, 64°; mean, 61°. 
Sunrise, 50°; midday, 79°; sunset, 66°; mean, 65°. 

For September. 

Sunrise, 39°; midday, 60°; sunset, 53°; mean, 51°. 
Sunrise, 41°; midday, 66°; sunset, 58°; mean, 55°. 
Sunrise, 36°; midday, 61°; sunset, 50°; mean, 46°. 

For October. 

Sunrise, 41°; midday, 57°; sunset, 52°; mean, 50°. 
Sunrise, 32°; midday, 57°; sunset, 42°; mean, 44°. 
Sunrise, 29°; midday, 49°; sunset, 39°; mean, 39°. 

DISTANCES OF ROUTES TO THE NATIONAL PARK. 


Southern Route. Miles . 

Omaha to Beaver Canon, via Ogden. 1,304 

Beaver Canon to Lower Geyser Basin (Bassett’s stage 

line, two days). 100 

Omaha to Lower Geyser Basin, total. 1,404 

Omaha to Lower Geyser Basin, via Oregon Short Line 

from Granger. 1,307 

Northern Route. 

St. Paul to Livingstone (Northern Pacific Railway). 1,030 

Livingstone to Mammoth Hot Springs. 57 

St. Paul to Mammoth Hot Springs, total.. 1,087 


1879. 

1880. 
1881. 


1879. 

1880. 
1881. 


1879. 

1880. 
1881. 


1879. 

1880. 
1881. 









214 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


Wagon-roads. 

BeaVCl 0(1710fl RoXitC. Between Points. Total, 

Beaver Canon to Lower Geyser Basin. 100 

Virginia City Route. 

Dillon to Virginia City, daily coach. 65 

Bntte City to Virginia City (about). 80 

Virginia City to Henry’s Lake. 60 

Henry’s Lake to Riverside (good camp and 

fishing).. .. 22 82 

Lookout Cliffs. 4 86 

Marshall’s Hotel in Firehole Basin. 8 94 

Prospect Point... 1 95 

Bozeman Route. 

Bozeman to Mouth of Canon. 4 

Yellowstone Valley, near mouth of Trail Creek.. 20 24 

Bottler’s Ranch on Yellowstone. 16 40 

Cinnabar (terminus of railroad from Livingstone) 28 68 

Mammoth Hot Springs.'. 6 74 

Routes Within the Park. 

Bridle-path. 

Mammoth Hot Springs to Middle Gardiner Falls, 

and return. . 8 

Wagon-road to Geyser Basins. 

Mammoth Springs to Terrace Pass . 2 

Swan Lake Camp. 3 5 

Crossing of Middle Fork of Gardiner’s River. 2J- r J\ 

Willow Park Camp. 3J 11 

Cold Sprin gs. 1 12 

Obsidian Cliffs and Beaver Lake. 1 13 

Green Creek (poison water). 1 14 

Lake of the Woods. 1 15 

Norris Valley (good camps). 2 17 

Norris Fork Crossing (good camp). 3 20 

Norris Geyser Basin. 1 21 


























DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 215 

Between Points. Total 

Geyser Creek (forks of trail leading to Paint 

Pots). 3 24 

Head of Gibbon Canon and foot-bridge leading to 

Monument Geysers. 1 25 

Falls of Gibbon. 4 29 

Canon Creek (half mile below camp). \ 29J 

Earthquake Cliffs. 2J 32 

Lookout Terrace. 2 34 

Marshall’s Hotel at Forks of Firehole River. 3 37 

Marshall’s Hotel to Queen’s Laundry and return 6 

Prospect Point.. 1 38 

Camp Reunion. 1 39 

Camp Reunion to Midway Geyser Basin. 3 42 

Old Faithful (in Upper Geyser Basin). 6 48 

Return to Lower Geyser Basin. 10 58 

Bridle-path from Upper Firehole direct to Yellowstone Lake. 

Kepler’s Cascades..... 2 

Norris Pass of Rocky Mountains . 6 8 

Delacy’s Creek and Camp (Pacific waters). 1 9 

Two Ocean Pond (Rocky Mountain summit). 3| 12J 

Thumb of Yellowstone Lake (camp near Hot 

Springs). 3 15 J 

Hot Springs Creek (poor camp). 6J 22 

Natural Bridge. 6 28 

Outlet of Yellowstone Lake (camp; trail meets 

wagon-road). 5 33 

Wagon-road from. Lower Firehole Basin to Yellowstone Lake, Sul¬ 
phur Mountain, Mud Geyser, Great Falls , and Grand Canon. 

Lower Basin to Rocky Fork Camp. 5 

Willow Camp. 2 7 

Mary’s Lake (near divide). 4 11 

Alum Creek Camp. 3 14 

Sage Creek (forks of road). 7 21 

Muddy Geyser (near Nez Perce Ford). 2 23 

Outlet of Yellowstone Lake.. 6 29 





























216 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


Between Points. Total 


Return to Sage Creek (forks of road)... 8 37 

Sulphur Mountain .... 1J 38J 

Mouth of Alum Creek. 1J 40 

Upper Falls of Yellowstone... 3 43 

Bridle-path from Yellowstone Falls and Canon to Tower Falls. 

Summit of Mount Washburne.. 10 

Tower Falls (camp)... 7 17 


Road from Top of Bluff at Tower Falls to Mammoth Springs. 

Forks of Yellowstone, or Baronett’s Bridge. 3 

Pleasant Valley. 2 5 

Dry Canon, or Devil’s Cut. 2 7 

Lava Beds. 4 11 

Black-tail Deer Creek. 2 13 

Upper Falls of the East Gardiner. 3 16 

Mammoth Hot Springs.... 4 20 


Miner's Trail to Clark Fork Mines. 

Baronett’s Bridge to Amethyst Creek. 

Crossing East Fork of Yellowstone River. 

Soda Butte (medicinal springs near gamekeeper’s 

cabin). 

Trout Lake. 

3 a *> » « ' 

Round Prairie,....... 

North Line of Wvomin"'. 

Clark’s Fork Pass, Creek City, and mines. 


10 

2 12 

3 15 

2 17 

3 20 

4 24 

3 27 


Hoodoo or G-oblin Mountain Bridle-path . 

Gamekeeper’s cabin (near Soda Butte) to Hot Sul¬ 
phur Springs.. 

Ford of Cache Creek. t ... 

Alum Springs and return. 

Cal fee Creek... 

Miller’s Creek ..... 

Mountain Terrace. 

Old Camp. 


2 

1 3 
4 7 

4 11 

2 13 
8 21 

5 26 





























DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 217 

Between Points. Total 

Golden Labyrinths. . 2 28 

Monument on Hoodoo or Goblin Mountain. 1 29 

/• 

Fossil Forest Bridle-path . 

Gamekeeper’s cabin to foot of Amethyst Mount¬ 
ain. 8 

Summit of Amethyst Mountain... 8 6 

Orange Creek. 5 11 

Sulphur Hills. 4 15 

Forks of Pelican Creek. 8 23 

Indian Pond at Concretion Cove on Yellowstone 

Lake. 5 28 

Lower Ford of Pelican Creek.. 3 31 

Foot of Yellowstone Lake... 3 34 

Fez Perce Bridle-path. 

Indian Pond to Pelican Valley.****. 3 

Ford of Pelican Creek..........:. 3 6 

Nez Perce Ford of the Y r ellowstone. 6 12 

• > ti V fi o « 

Mount Washburne Bridle-path. 

Great Falls to Cascade Creek Camp.. 2 

Spur of Mount Washburne (ascend a mile)......... 8 10 

Forks of Bridle-paths.. •• 4 14 

Tower Falls Camp......................... ^ 17 

Passamaria or Stinking Water Bridle-path. 

Concretion Cove to Turbid Lake. 

Jones’s Pass of the Sierra Shoshone Range... 7 10 

Confluence of the Jones and Stinking Water 

Fork of the Passamaria River... 5 15 





















218 


YELLOWSTONE PARK. 


ALTITUDES OF VARIOUS PLACES, FROM OFFICIAL REPORTS. 

Feet. 

Upper Geyser Basin. 7,300 

Midway Geyser Basin. 7,296 

Lower Geyser Basin. 7,260 

Shoshone Geyser Basin. 7,880 

Hot Springs, Yellowstone Lake. 7,788 

Mammoth Hot Springs. 6,387 

Mount Washburne. 10,388- 

Divide between Madison and Yellowstone. 8,164 

Yellowstone Falls. 7,693 

Yellowstone Lake . 7,738 

Mouth of Tower Creek. 6,207 

Henry’s Lake.,. 6,443 

Bozeman, Montana. 4,900 

Virginia City, Montana. 5,824 

Butte, Montana. 5,800 

Helena, Montana. 4,266 

Deer Lodge . 4,546 

Fort Benton. 2,780 

Gallatin City. 4,838 

Missoula. 3,900 

Whitehall.,. 4,639 

Bannack. 5,896 

Bridgets Pass. 9,147 

Mullen’s Pass. 5,980 

Pleasant Valley Pass. 6,036 

Emigrant Peak. 10,629 

Mount Powell. 10,506 






































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